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Brian Anderson (Hans)
Member
Username: Hans

Post Number: 47
Registered: 08-2003
Posted on Wednesday, October 01, 2003 - 01:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Not sure how to explain this, I have put a medium duty OME with 245/75/16's on a classic Range. At highway speeds it fairly difficult to control. It drifts and wonders back and forth across the lane. With my 1.5 inch lift plus tires, I was expecting maybe some driveline viberation but not this. What should I check into to solve this?

Thanks,
Brian
 

Jon Santana (Mustache)
Member
Username: Mustache

Post Number: 80
Registered: 09-2002
Posted on Wednesday, October 01, 2003 - 02:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Brian,
This is pretty common when you lift your truck. there is not too much you can do to correct it regarding the radius arms (fixing the castor thing will usually open another wound and cause a different problem). The best correction for this problem, or so i have read, is to employ the Truetrac front diff.
You may also consider checking on all your steering linkage and bushings.
Either way, its just kinda the nature of the lifted beast.

good luck,
Jon
 

Jon Santana (Mustache)
Member
Username: Mustache

Post Number: 81
Registered: 09-2002
Posted on Wednesday, October 01, 2003 - 02:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Brian,
This is pretty common when you lift your truck. there is not too much you can do to correct it regarding the radius arms (fixing the castor thing will usually open another wound and cause a different problem). The best correction for this problem, or so i have read, is to employ the Truetrac front diff.
You may also consider checking on all your steering linkage and bushings.
Either way, its just kinda the nature of the lifted beast.

good luck,
Jon
 

Jon Santana (Mustache)
Member
Username: Mustache

Post Number: 82
Registered: 09-2002
Posted on Wednesday, October 01, 2003 - 02:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Brian,
This is pretty common when you lift your truck. there is not too much you can do to correct it regarding the radius arms (fixing the castor thing will usually open another wound and cause a different problem). The best correction for this problem, or so i have read, is to employ the Truetrac front diff.
You may also consider checking on all your steering linkage and bushings.
Either way, its just kinda the nature of the lifted beast.

good luck,
Jon
 

Ian Bentley (Ibentley)
Member
Username: Ibentley

Post Number: 43
Registered: 06-2003
Posted on Wednesday, October 01, 2003 - 03:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Brian,

Have you checked the tire pressures? I got similar symptoms when I forgot to bleed down the front tires after rotating them.
 

Brian Anderson (Hans)
Member
Username: Hans

Post Number: 49
Registered: 08-2003
Posted on Wednesday, October 01, 2003 - 04:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

That's what I was afraid might be said. I have also heard the Trutrac helps. I was planning on one of those anyway, guess I'll do that next.

Thanks Jon.
 

Jon Santana (Mustache)
Member
Username: Mustache

Post Number: 83
Registered: 09-2002
Posted on Wednesday, October 01, 2003 - 04:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

srry for the multiple postings... whoops
 

Randall Smith (Mr_smith)
Member
Username: Mr_smith

Post Number: 81
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Wednesday, October 01, 2003 - 05:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Brian

Free: You can retorque all the suspension bolts. Pry on the rubber bushings too, to see if they need replacing. Grab the steering links and try to see if the ball-joints are good and tight. Check the wheel bearings to see if they are tightened down correctly.

I have the true-trac, and it helps some.

But really you have to get the castor angle back to the original dimension. I have multiple sets of front radius arms, and the castor angle does make big difference when you drive fast. How would the steering feel on a bike if the front fork was perpendicular to the ground?? Scary!

Joe doen't say what "different problem" is, so I will guess: Some people have tried to use castor correcting bushings, which does create a "problem". Also most castor correcting arms are heavy and fat, which might be a problem.

Randall
 

Ben Ziskind (Tyziskben)
Member
Username: Tyziskben

Post Number: 129
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Wednesday, October 01, 2003 - 08:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Lemme chime in here and say that with my 6+" inches of lift,and 38's I've had practically no vibes, but, did go through the steering wander problems when i had the 265/75/16 BFG MT's on my truck...
The problems have been: uneven tire pressure, which causes you to have to turn the wheel more in one direction (L or R) to compensate for the low tire, and on the highway, makes the wheel move around, bad swivel-ball (although u would hear a grinding sound once in a while if a spacer/swivel ball was cracked or broken) intermittent PS pump, which goes on and off causing the wheel to turn hard, then easy, and sometimes jump around...
And then, theres just the common fact that the higher up you go and the faster you push the truck, especially with skinnier tires, its gonna be like walking on a balance beam when trying to go straight...Think about it, with the wind pushing the top of the car at high speeds, and with a skinnier base underneath such a heavy body, thats why it makes it so difficult to keep striaght on the highway...
My suggestion, check tire pressure, then get used to it!!!
When I put on my 38/12.50's which are wider then the tires I had on before, my highway driving was a lot steadier due to the better/wider stance of the car...
Hope this helps,
Ben
 

micky dee (Kincangokicker)
Member
Username: Kincangokicker

Post Number: 78
Registered: 06-2003
Posted on Wednesday, October 01, 2003 - 09:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

dont forget to check your steering stabilizer. im guessing that the radius bushings are shot. my rover does the exact same thing. when it was stock and now with the ome heavy duty springs. so i will be replacing these bushings soon but for now i can live with it.
 

Paul Reyes (Paulr)
Member
Username: Paulr

Post Number: 54
Registered: 01-2003
Posted on Wednesday, October 01, 2003 - 10:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Mine is the same way. Get it up over 65 mph and you have to concentrate! Good tire pressure and a Trutrac is what I�ve gathered so that�s my 2 cents.
Funny, the other day I had a few at the brewery so I let my buddy drive�. He was so freaked out by the steering wander he almost pulled over and called a cab for the two of us.
 

Brian Anderson (Hans)
Member
Username: Hans

Post Number: 50
Registered: 08-2003
Posted on Thursday, October 02, 2003 - 10:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

That's pretty funny. No more eating in the car and steering with your knees! I have found a small amount of play in the pitman arm ball joint? (I think that's right) Maybe that will help some.

Thanks all.

Brian
 

Joe Wooten (Joe_w)
New Member
Username: Joe_w

Post Number: 23
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Thursday, October 02, 2003 - 12:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Brian,
I am running an identical setup, and my '93 has no wander at all. I had to replace my rear radius arm bushings. Check the bushings on the front end of your rear radius arms. Get it on a lift with the rear axle and wheels hanging free, try to push the rear wheels forward and backward to see if there is any play. It is a common problem for these bushings to get worn out, allowing the rear end to wander.
Good Luck.
Joe
 

Jon Santana (Mustache)
Member
Username: Mustache

Post Number: 84
Registered: 09-2002
Posted on Thursday, October 02, 2003 - 02:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

ya, Randall, you guessed it... just didnt wanna be the blabbering know it all :P the castor correction tends to cause more vibes (again, so i have read). Joe's trailing arm bushing problem can most certainly cause a ton a scary wandering, but thats easier to diagnose as it will happen when you shift gears or let off the accelerator at high speeds.
good luck, Brian.
Jon
 

Brian Anderson (Hans)
Member
Username: Hans

Post Number: 53
Registered: 08-2003
Posted on Thursday, October 02, 2003 - 04:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

That is actually when I notice it most, if I have the cruise set and turn it off it pulls immediately to the right
 

Jon Santana (Mustache)
Member
Username: Mustache

Post Number: 85
Registered: 09-2002
Posted on Thursday, October 02, 2003 - 06:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

eek! check your trailing arm bushings quick! if it gets bad, you can seriously have big trouble controlling your vehicle as it is steering from the rear axle. you can get a set of stock bushings from british pacific for 32 clams, i think... im on my second set of poly-bush jammies and am begining to agree with the masses that they kinda suck for the price.
get under there and wrench! :D
good luck,

Jon
 

Brian Anderson (Hans)
Member
Username: Hans

Post Number: 54
Registered: 08-2003
Posted on Friday, October 03, 2003 - 03:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I'll check those tonight.

Thanks!

Brian
 

Michael G. Duckworth (Hampton_89rr)
New Member
Username: Hampton_89rr

Post Number: 19
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Saturday, October 04, 2003 - 06:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Do they make a Truetrac for a 89 Classic? I see that Expedition Exchange has them for 93-95.

Thanks,
Michael
 

Brian Anderson (Hans)
Member
Username: Hans

Post Number: 55
Registered: 08-2003
Posted on Monday, October 06, 2003 - 09:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I know they make them for a 1990. Not sure if it would be different for an 89. Probably not, 10 spline axles would be the same on both.
 

Bill Bettridge (Billb)
Dweb Lounge Member
Username: Billb

Post Number: 1132
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Monday, October 06, 2003 - 01:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Brian - all those bushings are brand new (radius arm, trailing arm, outriggers, and panhard)as are the tie rod ends - so no issues there. I gave you the new drop arm balljoint kit, so I'd replace that first. I also gave you the three ball joints needed on the rear A-arm (one on diff and two on Boge unit). Replace those also before tackling the other stuff. Definitely check out your tire pressures too.

Don't bother with castor correction bushings - they cause more problems and have a short life span. If you still have the issue, the truetrac will pretty much fix all of the issues.

Bill
 

Brian Anderson (Hans)
Member
Username: Hans

Post Number: 56
Registered: 08-2003
Posted on Wednesday, October 08, 2003 - 10:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Thanks Bill.
 

Brian Anderson (Hans)
Member
Username: Hans

Post Number: 60
Registered: 08-2003
Posted on Thursday, October 23, 2003 - 03:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I found it! The previous owner had replaced some of the joints with greasable ones (very nice to have) and I hadn't checked to see if there was enough grease in them. When I started greasing the rubber joints inflated and most of the problems went away! I still have some steering issues because of the lift but it's 75% better. I can drive 75 again!
Thanks for all of the ideas everyone, and thanks to Bill for a great truck!
 

Bill Bettridge (Billb)
Dweb Lounge Member
Username: Billb

Post Number: 1197
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Thursday, October 23, 2003 - 03:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Brian,

Glad you found the issue - guess I hadn't filled them enough before (?). Sometimes it's the easy things :-)

Bill
 

Bill Bettridge (Billb)
Dweb Lounge Member
Username: Billb

Post Number: 1198
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Thursday, October 23, 2003 - 03:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

PS - if you replace that drop arm joint (assuming you haven't done so yet) - that may improve it even further. I'm sure that is the orginal ball joint on there.

Bill
 

Geoff 93 RRC (Geoff)
Member
Username: Geoff

Post Number: 132
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Friday, October 24, 2003 - 04:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Don't underestimate the tire pressure thing. The fronts need to be about 8psi less than the rears if memory serves.

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