| Author | Message | ||
     CJ SZPILA (Crash05) Member Username: Crash05 Post Number: 226 Registered: 11-2002 |
I have a 98 Disco with 75k miles, I was just wondering whats the best brand of oil to use? | ||
| Dean Brown (Deanbrown3d) Senior Member Username: Deanbrown3d Post Number: 867 Registered: 02-2002 |
Mobil 1 synthetic | ||
| Will Weatherford (Wweatherford) On Probation Username: Wweatherford Post Number: 101 Registered: 02-2003 |
I concur - Mobil 1 syn | ||
| john heath (Jheath6) Member Username: Jheath6 Post Number: 48 Registered: 09-2003 |
i use vavoline high mileage | ||
| Mark Devereux (Groupw) Member Username: Groupw Post Number: 96 Registered: 12-2002 |
I've done a bit of web research on motor oils, and it seems that Redline oils beat everything out there in terms of: Viscosity Stability vs. Shear Rate Coificient of friction Thermal Stability The Redline's are "racing" oils, and therefor lack a detergent additive (for what that is worth). Right behind Redline in all of measures seems to be Amsoil. The non-synth oils really aren't even close. Now the disclaimer. I can find very little independent oil testing results on the web. Most of the data I found was put out by the manufacturer. | ||
| Alan Greening (Alan_g) Member Username: Alan_g Post Number: 60 Registered: 04-2003 |
I've found that changing the oil every 3000 miles is the best. My series III is on it's 4th time round the clock and going strong, I'm sure thanks to regular oil changes. If you change it that regularly it's hardly worth putting expensive synthetics in, just stick to the reccomended viscosity for your temperature range. | ||
| CJ SZPILA (Crash05) Member Username: Crash05 Post Number: 227 Registered: 11-2002 |
I was planning on staying away from synthetic, just because of the higher miles. What brand of non synthetic oil? | ||
| Sergei Rodionov (Uzbad) Member Username: Uzbad Post Number: 82 Registered: 08-2003 |
in synthetics: i used to lean towards edline but then i heard lots of nasty things from 4wd users about it (troubles with shifting, starting & etc).. So i switched from Mobils and Castrols to Royal Purple - and wont go back..  This one ruuuuulezzz.. Altough - lots of people will vouch for Amsoil, i sppse.. Poured it to Disco recently (at 133K) with Lucas stabilizer - purring like kitty | ||
| KC Jacob (Kcjacob) New Member Username: Kcjacob Post Number: 10 Registered: 02-2003 |
I saw Amsoil stickers on a lot of trucks on the way to work today. I was wondering what kind of oil that would be. Would anyone here care to express their opinion about using Amsoil? As of now I use Pennsoil European Formula Synthetic 5W-40. | ||
| David Zymowski (Davidz) New Member Username: Davidz Post Number: 25 Registered: 04-2003 |
Alan nailed it, pick any oil company. and change it frequently. every 2k to 3k miles and your safe. | ||
| Dave Brown (Davebrown) New Member Username: Davebrown Post Number: 6 Registered: 08-2002 |
CJ, You said that you were going to stay away from the synthetics because of the higher miles. Is there a risk in switching from "normal" to synthetics on a rig that has not had it before? I have been planning to switch to Mobil 1 at my next oil change, but I don't want to do so if there are unforseen consequences. | ||
| Kennith P. Whichard III (Kennith) Senior Member Username: Kennith Post Number: 392 Registered: 05-2002 |
Amsoil is a synthetic oil company that produces all the lubricants and filters you may need to use in a motor vehicle (or lawn mower, for that matter). I have used Amsoil in my engine for many thousands of miles with no problems, loss of power, oil consumption, or leaks whatsoever. I recently changed with Mobil 1 because I forgot to buy the Amsoil before the service, and blew my front main seal. I am not saying this was a result of any faults in mobil 1 oil, I just don't thlink it can hold up with the way I drive. She just runs better on Amsoil. Amsoil can be purchased through many independant dealers, or directly from the distributor itself. I know a few others who use it (including a lubrications engineer), and they all swear by it, as do I. Cheers, Kennith | ||
| Sergei Rodionov (Uzbad) Member Username: Uzbad Post Number: 89 Registered: 08-2003 |
Dave - synthetics are "thinner" and many people says that whatever was sealed by non-synth oils (and yes they really do it) will be leaking if you switching to synth. So its flip of the coin in a way. | ||
| Dirk Commandeur (Dirklc) New Member Username: Dirklc Post Number: 15 Registered: 07-2003 |
Dave- Some people believe switching to synthetic in a high mileage engine that had previously used standard oil will cause problems. The idea is that the syn oil is more likely to slip past older seals than regular oil. There is really no evidence to support this concern. I have heard from several reputable mechanics that you can switch to syn anytime. If you have worn seals, it will leak regardless of the type of oil you use. I wouldn't worry too much about it (and 75K miles isn't a lot for a Rover V8, esp. if it has received regular oil changes). | ||
| Porter Mann (Porter) Member Username: Porter Post Number: 53 Registered: 05-2003 |
I've used both AMSoil and Redline. Redline is expensive, but both of the synthetics are great oils. I've used them in other cars, and all my friends use synthetics as well (moble 1). My Disco leaked when I purchased it at 65K, it leaked the same when I switched to synthetics, and it still leaks the same after 3 years at close to 100K. | ||
| Dirk Commandeur (Dirklc) New Member Username: Dirklc Post Number: 16 Registered: 07-2003 |
Synthetics are not thinner than standard oils. Viscosity defines the oil's resistance to flow - at the tested temperature, a 75W syn will flow at the same rate as a 75W non-syn. Synthetics generally offer better viscosity at temperature extremes but the real value of syn oil is fewer impurities such as sulfur, wax and asphaltic material. | ||
| Pete Stefano (Pete_s) Member Username: Pete_s Post Number: 82 Registered: 02-2003 |
I use Quaker State, but I also agree with that changing every 2-3K is the best way to go no matter what oil. I like dino better IMHO. | ||
| Geoff 93 RRC (Geoff) Member Username: Geoff Post Number: 118 Registered: 11-2002 |
I have always heard Castrol GTX is the best conventional oil for high rpm cars. Chevron Delo 400 is used a lot in commercial truck fleets and is a great 15w-40 conventional certified for gas/diesel with a nice additive package that keeps the bad stuff suspended. | ||
| Mark (Mrroverman) Member Username: Mrroverman Post Number: 69 Registered: 02-2003 |
I use Mobil 1 syn. 10/30 | ||
| John Lombos (Rover4us) Member Username: Rover4us Post Number: 63 Registered: 02-2003 |
I've used Mobil1 full syn. in my last 3 high-rev Honda/Acuras and now in the D2. You pay a little more-but I gladly do it for that extra piece of mind. Every little bit counts. Red Line, Amsoil amd especially Royal Purple aren't as readily available. And quite expen$ive. I've heard from countless shops and oil reps that it is ok to switch to syn when you get up there in miles and even suggested possitive results. I agree that as long as you change regularly-you will be ok. Sometimes I wonder why I pay for the syn. oil, especially when I change every 3K and according to the "experts", syn. oil maintains their viscosity longer than conv. oils. Out of curiousity...what oil filter does everyone use? | ||
| Peter J Blatt (Peteb) Senior Member Username: Peteb Post Number: 259 Registered: 10-2002 |
This could go on for days I use ROTELLA, I like it and it likes me, The choise is yours, Rotella has alot of zink for those old bearings, Most all 18 wheelers use it, so i figure that it must be good! Peter. | ||
| Greg French (Gregfrench) Senior Member Username: Gregfrench Post Number: 612 Registered: 11-2002 |
I switched to Mobile 1 from dino at 110K miles with no problems. I have heard that synthetic actually repairs or reconditions worn seals and helps slow the leaks. | ||
| Ian Bentley (Ibentley) Member Username: Ibentley Post Number: 46 Registered: 06-2003 |
I run Mobil 1 in both my '87 RR and the '99 Disco. The '87 is at 211k miles, and doesn't need to be topped up between oil changes. Change the oil regularly! As far as switching to synthetic, the only issue I've had was a clogged oil filter from all the crud the synth picked up and removed from the engine. No leak problems at all. | ||
| Phillip Perkinson (Rover4x4) Senior Member Username: Rover4x4 Post Number: 467 Registered: 02-2003 |
whats the general consensus on replacing oil filters at the initial switch to the syn? Would it depend on the overall mialge of the truck? what have been yalls experiences? | ||
| Brian Dickens (Bri) Senior Member Username: Bri Post Number: 734 Registered: 08-2002 |
Oil filters should be changed everytime you change the oil, regardless of whether you change to synthetic or not. Castrol GTX is my choice. No particular reason other than a good friend, serious muscle car fanatic swore by it and I have used it in all of my vehicles for many years. Of course I change at 3k too. | ||
| RayDunn (Raydunn) New Member Username: Raydunn Post Number: 16 Registered: 02-2003 |
I've used a Mobil 1 10w-30 with a mobil oil filter for the past two years on a D1 with 120k miles. Changed every 3k miles and a quart added in between (gotta love an oil leak). FWIW- I had a BMW mechanic advise me to use a full sythetic on a European motor, don't know why but that's what he said to do. | ||
| eric johnson (Eric2) Member Username: Eric2 Post Number: 122 Registered: 05-2003 |
As far as best - Royal Purple, with Amsoil very close and Redline behind them. Mobil 1 recently changed their formula - whether thats a good or bad thing, others here may know more details. JRobison, who posts on this and the RN site, also owns a large shop in Mass. He repairs most European cars, including Land Rovers. He has owned/owns several RR's. He runs Mobil 1, and if you go to his website, explains why you should run synthetic. The overheating engine/ water pump failure annecdotes are eye opening. I know a friend who has run Mobil 1 in his RR since new. Its an early 90's model. He now has over 200K miles on it. Upon removal of a valve cover, to replace a gasket, the engine looked nearly new. Just that light golden patina - no black chunks anywhere. Unlike a certain engine I know about that didn't run synth. If you change to synth., I would drop the pan and clean any crud that has built up in the bottom. I had 165K on my '90 3.9 when it decided it needed a rebuild. The bottom of the oil pan had a 1/4" thick layer of goo/chunks/crud. | ||
| Sergei Rodionov (Uzbad) Member Username: Uzbad Post Number: 91 Registered: 08-2003 |
Eric! I knew i forgot something when i was cleaning my truck..Oil sump! Guess it will have to wait for next 4-5K miles (or February, when i will swap oil again), but THANKS for idea. PS: another huge area to do cleaning is crankshaft case & breather filter.. mine was full of black goo.. yickes.. | ||
| Curtis N (Curtis) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Curtis Post Number: 763 Registered: 05-2002 |
The best oil is clean oil. If someone says one brand is better than another, I alays ask where their lab is. For sure they have at least 100 identical engines testing at least ten oils in ten engines under identical loads and circumstances. Oh - I run Mobil1 Curtis | ||
| Kennith P. Whichard III (Kennith) Senior Member Username: Kennith Post Number: 394 Registered: 05-2002 |
Mr Dirk, You are absolutely right. Cheers, Kennith | ||
| micky dee (Kincangokicker) Member Username: Kincangokicker Post Number: 79 Registered: 06-2003 |
we go to wallmart and buy the cheepest oil that they have if i can get it for under a dollar even better. then i change it when i get the chance or have time. when the oil light flickers then i add more. the old rover ticks and growls but still runs. when the lease is up then i will return it and get another one and do it all over again. only in my dreams. a new leased rover! anyway i chang it ever 4000km and usually bounce between syn and regular oils same as fuel between premium and regular | ||
| Dirk Commandeur (Dirklc) New Member Username: Dirklc Post Number: 17 Registered: 07-2003 |
Mr. Kennith, There's a first time for everything. ;) Dirk | ||
| han chung (Hanchung) Member Username: Hanchung Post Number: 122 Registered: 10-2002 |
89RRC 204k miles Mobil1 10-30 K&N oil filter every 3-4k miles seems like i'm keeping this 3.9 for a while... | ||
| Greg Hirst (Gregh) Senior Member Username: Gregh Post Number: 328 Registered: 10-2002 |
Same here, Han- 89RRC 128K miles Mobil 1 15W50 w/ Mahle or Mann filter every 3-4k miles | ||
| Tbow (Tbow) Member Username: Tbow Post Number: 154 Registered: 12-2002 |
A while back Consumer Reports did a test with New York taxi cabs testing a variety of engine oils dinno and syntec.. bottomline, was to buy a API rated oil and change at the manufactures recommended intervals. Check this out and you decide what oil you should use. http://www.xs11.com/stories/croil96.htm |
