| Author | Message | ||
     Steve Camarillo (96discodude) New Member Username: 96discodude Post Number: 1 Registered: 10-2003 |
This is my first visit to the board. You all have great looking Discos. I'm thinking about selling my 2002 Jeep Liberty and buying a used Disco. Probably about a 1996 or 97 Disco I. When I start looking, what should I look out for. I've heard that they are somewhat unreliable, but I'm hoping that I get lucky with one. Any suggestions will be appreciated. | ||
| Shawn McKenzie (Shawn) Member Username: Shawn Post Number: 131 Registered: 10-2002 |
If possible, buy one without the rubber universal-joint at the rear differential, a regular u-joint is preferred. Be wary if ANY warning lights are on when the truck is running. Some are easier to fix than others. Possible bargining chip? Check out the power steering system for leaks. If it has sunroofs, check out the rails for bends, damage, leaks etc. They are a PITA to fix. You'll like a Discovery SO much more than your Liberty that it's almost sick. Enjoy. | ||
| Bazzle (Bazzle) New Member Username: Bazzle Post Number: 23 Registered: 09-2003 |
Rubber Universal.. I had 244,000 kilometers on a Series 1 diesel. Changed one (1st)rear uni at 214,000 ks. Bazzle | ||
| Steve Camarillo (96discodude) New Member Username: 96discodude Post Number: 2 Registered: 10-2003 |
Hey Shawn... how easy is it to tell if the Disco has the rubber U-Joint or a regular U-Joint? Is the rubber u-joint standard? If I wanted to get them replaced, is this an expensive mod? Thanks for the feedback. | ||
| Will Weatherford (Wweatherford) On Probation Username: Wweatherford Post Number: 112 Registered: 02-2003 |
Steve - Look out for '96-'97 Disco's...alledged to be the worst build quality: http://www.robisonservice.com/servicedep/rover_advice1.asp#disco Good luck! | ||
| Joe M. (Little_joe) Member Username: Little_joe Post Number: 192 Registered: 11-2002 |
The rotoflex is the least of the concerns - they are $70. Check for rust: under the cargo area pad, in the wheelwells in the back doors (underneath especially), firewall, back door. Make sure it is waterproof! The sunroofs, alpine windows, front windshield seal, and rear door are prone to leaks. Run it through a carwash if you have to and see if any water comes in. The thing will leak fluids, but I wouldn't be terribly concerned. Try and gauge just how much it's leaking - if things underneath are mildly soiled, that seems to be normal, but if there is fluid just everywhere top and bottom, find one that doesn't leak as much. Take a good long listen to the valves; or have a competent mechanic you trust listen. These things tend to have valve problems over time. All other used car buying advice should apply as well. Just make sure everything works! I bought my 96 almost a yr ago and checked some things thoroughly and others not well enough (ie rust). It has been a fun and reliable vehicle, requiring only a single repair so far (the fuel pump). Good luck! joe | ||
| Shawn McKenzie (Shawn) Member Username: Shawn Post Number: 133 Registered: 10-2002 |
Steve, Go to the Tech section and scroll down to the "Rotoflex conversion" link. There are excellent pictures there. Bazzle is correct that a non-lifted rotoflex truck can get a lot of KM's out of a rubber joint, but if you lift it, you will find the roto dying a quick death. They cost me $160CDN a piece here. You can convert a roto truck to a u-joint one fairly easily but if you have the option to buy one with a u-joint already there, it's one less thing to worry about. Cheers, Shawn | ||
| Luke Tolson (Luke4696) Member Username: Luke4696 Post Number: 234 Registered: 06-2003 |
Steve, Ingnore the "roto" babble and take what Joe said to heart. The "rotoflex" can/will fail at some point, but each care is different in that many never have problems while running mild lifts (like myself). Look at this purchase just as you would any other automobile and equip yourself with as much information as possible. The info gained here will range from those who do little to no offroading to that of the hard core rock crawler, so take each person's advice with a grain of salt. DI's had some build quality issues that were rectified with the DII, though the DII has it's on issues with more advanced components (traction control, hill descent control, active cornering...). My $.02 would be to get the latest model DI possible or try and steal a lil' old ladies DII if it fits into your budget. Just remember you are buying a car that will go along way with some TLC and an ability to spend a little cash every once in a while. -Luke p.s. if you can get a warranty, GET ONE! | ||
| Will Weatherford (Wweatherford) On Probation Username: Wweatherford Post Number: 116 Registered: 02-2003 |
FWIW: Insurance Institute for Highway Safety - check out various LR reviews on this link: http://12.4.65.102/search/search.idq?CiRestriction=rover&CiScope=%2F&FastDir=%2F search&HTMLQueryForm=search.htm | ||
| Sergei Rodionov (Uzbad) Member Username: Uzbad Post Number: 99 Registered: 08-2003 |
Well rotoflex is one of things to remember if you ever upgrade differentials to lockers, or changing gearing. They ought to be swapped to some real stuff. Also rotoflex is thing to worry about when you fitting armour for differentials like those pinon guards from Rockware or rear guard from QT. As of things to look at - (as recent buyer of used 94 Disco) : - belt - check for inside cracks - accelerate hard from full stop and have someone to watch for huge black cloud to appear - get under and knock on both cats (under belly next to front wheels) - listen for marbles sound - if you can - ask them to get breather filter off crankcase - look on filter and inside crankcase - if it was cared nicely you shouldnt see any dark nasty goo - sagging headliner (easy fix is posted on this forum, but you can knock price a bit) - check all wheels and tires for cracks (obvious, but often overlooked) - try to get owners manual - look for rear seats folding - they held by odd little bolts that sometime falls out. And while you at it - check that you getting all tools - stuff should be stored under rear seats. - get on side and overlook roof for any damage - small holes, odd rust - insides of doorframes for rust - while disco running get "-" terminal off battery - if thing dies - you got crappy alternator.. + free play in steering.. + check brakes - rotors.. + all the usual check for rust and bits falling off. Oh and on mine left control arm (i think thats what they called) was quite nicely unbolted - having play of like inch.. But to see it you need get access to wheel well. Last time i checked - warranty for mine was about 1000$ for 5y/100k miles, covering all normal breaks  | ||
| Kai Dussling (Kai) Member Username: Kai Post Number: 87 Registered: 06-2002 |
We buy a lot of semi-used vehicles for our company. The key is to check for abuse. Also make sure no one is trying to mask/hide anything. All the above comments are great but, bottomline is that you are buying something used and shit is going to break. The biggest problems we have had with used vehicles is when a previuos owner jerry-rigged something or failed to reconnect something after it was fixed. Trying to diagnose these problems is a PITA! Look for a single owner vehicle and stay away from the cheapo used car lots. We have even researched previous owners (vin numbers and tax records) and called them and asked why they got rid of there car. If its on a lot, they will give you a straight answer as they have nothing to lose. |
