| Author | Message | ||
     R. N. Katz (Rangierog) New Member Username: Rangierog Post Number: 4 Registered: 09-2003 |
considering this as first (of many) upgrades on hopefully soon-to-be new (to me) '95 LWB. Anyone running the TrueTrac diff's? What other "as long as you're there" mods/upgrades did you do? | ||
| Randall Smith (Mr_smith) Member Username: Mr_smith Post Number: 84 Registered: 04-2003 |
I have the TrueTracs front and rear, along with the viscous locking center diff. Generally speaking, and without starting the whole "which diff is better" discussion: This makes your truck unstoppable in almost every situation. However tires appropriate for the conditions are an important part of being unstopable. And tires come in a lot of diameters. Tire diameter is an important factor in deciding if you should get 4.11 gears at the same time as the TrueTracs. Coincedentally a diff guard would be my first off-road mod; along with some other basic mods to reduce damage under the truck. You will also need to install good recovery points front and rear. I would get an extra set of wheels and decide on at least one set of tires also. You should learn as much as possible about how the RR performs in your neck of the woods. It may well be that it does better than you think without lockers, and that you can delay that decision. Good luck with the RR Randall | ||
| Alan Bates (Alanb) Senior Member Username: Alanb Post Number: 328 Registered: 07-2002 |
Hi Randall: Are you running the stock 10 spline axles with the trutracs, and if so any problems with strenght? I'm thinking of a tru-trac in the front with the stock axles and a detriot in the rear with upgraded axles. But if I can get away with using stock axles in the back with the trutrac it might be an option and save me some money, otherwise I will probbably get the detriot with axles for the rear. Any thoughts? | ||
| Randall Smith (Mr_smith) Member Username: Mr_smith Post Number: 85 Registered: 04-2003 |
Roger If the RR you are going to buy has been lifted already, you need to drive it for several hours on the freeway to see what drivability issues it has. TT in front only helps counteract one lift related problem. Alan Going with 24 spline axles in the front improves the strength very little. That is because the 24 spline axle is actually only 1.03" near the CV joint, and that is a weak point. You can get extreme duty front axles but they cost a lot. The high strength axles are really only needed in the rear. And they are only needed if you have fat tires, are very aggressive, or do a lot of hill climbs on rugged terrain. A detriot locker in the rear would put further strain on the axles. My suggestion would be to aquire a complete axle assembly for the rear off of a wrecked DI. The rear axles off of a DI or LWBRR are about twice as strong as the earlier 10 splines. It would be extremely simple to add alloy axles at that point, which are three times stronger than the 10 splines. Unfortunately it just takes more time and money to up grade the driveline of a pre-LWB RR. Randall | ||
| Jaime (Blueboy) Senior Member Username: Blueboy Post Number: 761 Registered: 02-2002 |
just keep in mind that the earlier 93LWBs had 10 spline rear shafts. the change to 24 happened about mid-year. Jaime |
