| Author | Message | ||
     Matt Anderson (Disco01) New Member Username: Disco01 Post Number: 4 Registered: 10-2003 |
Just wondered peoples opinions. I have the preference to Mobil 1 syn., but I have heard some people running dino with a quart of Lucas. What are your thoughts. Also, is there anything wrong with switching to synthetic at say 50k? | ||
| Joey (Joey4420) Senior Member Username: Joey4420 Post Number: 300 Registered: 04-2003 |
I switched to synthetic on my '97 Disco at 80k, no noticable issues in the last 12k  now at 92k. I like Lucas products with just about anything.....of course it doesn't taste good with peanut butter | ||
| ron morgan (Rpm2429) New Member Username: Rpm2429 Post Number: 4 Registered: 08-2003 |
I have a 96 disco, got it at 70000 and switched to mobil 1, now have over 90000 and will never go back to texas crude again. At my first oil change with syn. it was blacker than black, and now it comes out as clear as it goes in. I am slowly changing all my fluids to synthetic, it really is the best. Ron | ||
| Ron Brown (Ron) Senior Member Username: Ron Post Number: 502 Registered: 04-2001 |
ditto to the copycat Ron | ||
| Curtis N (Curtis) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Curtis Post Number: 799 Registered: 05-2002 |
I have always liked oil that is very "slippery". I have found that this is essential when attenpting to lubricate metal components that come in contact with each other. The more "slippery" they are, the better they will likely perform. Thus it is always advisable to choose an oil that is not only ... Nevermind, I can't continue with this. Just make sure to change your oil on a regular basis and that the oil you use meets the heat range for your climate at that time of year. I use Mobil 1, but it is honestly never in the pan long enough to make a real difference -Curtis | ||
| June H. Han (Junehhan) Member Username: Junehhan Post Number: 108 Registered: 04-2003 |
There is nothing wrong at all switching to Mobil 1 synthetic, and I would recommend it as it's a great synthetic oil. As others have recommended, just make sure you run the proper viscosity, and you're set. At 50k, it's not too late as your engine should still be in it's prime, so why not protect it with one of the best oils available? Not only does a synthetic like Mobil 1 reduce wear by offering superior lubrication, it also has a superior additive package that will clean out some of the old sludge that may have built up, and then help prevent excessive buildups as long as you change your oil as necessary. | ||
| Matt Anderson (Disco01) New Member Username: Disco01 Post Number: 5 Registered: 10-2003 |
I agree with you Curtis, I change mine like every 2000-3000 and dont think it really would make a difference if it is changed that frequently. I would think it would make a bigger difference in the transmission, t-case, and axles as they dont get much attention. I feel it is better money spent buying a better oil filter (K&N or Mobil). Matt | ||
| Rich Peterson (Rpet) New Member Username: Rpet Post Number: 13 Registered: 02-2003 |
I use Mobil 1 in my 95 Disco.. Started using it around 75K... however since it is such a great oil.. I dont change ever 2-3K .. I change around 5-8K miles.. really this oil can go for up to 12K and still run clean.. its a great oil.. Rpet | ||
| Joe M. (Little_joe) Member Username: Little_joe Post Number: 196 Registered: 11-2002 |
I switched to Mobil1 5W30 at 90k on my 96 D1. Oddly, that slowed down the various leaks - guess the additive package really is better than dino-based oils at conditioning seals. joe | ||
| Bob (Yomtov) Member Username: Yomtov Post Number: 118 Registered: 01-2003 |
So I too would like to switch to Mobil 1. What grade is best for a North East climate (New York) ? And while I am at it what about oil filters any better ones out there for my Disco ?? Thanks in advance ! | ||
| Kydisco (Kydisco) New Member Username: Kydisco Post Number: 7 Registered: 06-2003 |
I recommend WIX filters. They are guaranteed to meet or exceed original eqiuipment. If WIXs can't make them that good they will buy them from the manufacturer. My WIXs dealer says he has actually opened WIXs boxes and found Toyota oil filters inside. I have used these filters on all my vehicles for years and have always had good results. As to motor oil. I use Castrol Syntec Blend. It is a nice compromise. Most of the benefits of the synthetics but at half the price. I have used Mobil 1 in the past and currently use it on a new Chevy, because I have been doing the factory recommended 7500 mile oil changes. But I really don't know if the synthetic is worth the price. No doubt it is better than conventional, but if conventional meets your needs the synthetic is overkill. | ||
| June H. Han (Junehhan) Member Username: Junehhan Post Number: 109 Registered: 04-2003 |
Out of curiosity, has anyone tried running Mobil 1 0w40 on their Disco? That's the viscosity that is required on the Freelanders when running M1, but i'm just curious. I'm currently running Amsoil 10w40 in my 03 Disco, although I may switch to a lighter weight oil during my next change since we are going into winter. As far as filters go, factory filters appear to be decent, but K&N does make an awesome oil filter for our Disco's! Since maintenance is free during the warranty period, no need for me to worry about that yet. Does anyone know if there is a Mobil 1 filter available for the Disco? Joe, synthetics contain a superior additive package, and often contain additives that help to recondition old worn out seals. That is why you are probably experiencing an oil leak that has slowed down it's leak. Some people after a prolonged period of use have experienced their oil leaks stopping completely if the seal had not deteriorated too badly before they started using a synthetic. As far as using a synthetic blend goes, most manufacturers that offer a synthetic blend generally only blend about 10-15% of the real stuff into the conventional oil, and you really arn't getting a very good value. Although it's probably a little bit better than just pure conventional oil, the benefits are questionable when running a blend. | ||
| Curtis N (Curtis) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Curtis Post Number: 813 Registered: 05-2002 |
"I use Mobil 1 in my 95 Disco.. Started using it around 75K... however since it is such a great oil.. I dont change ever 2-3K .. I change around 5-8K miles.. really this oil can go for up to 12K and still run clean.. its a great oil.." This is faulty logic. The cleanliness of your oil is entirely dependent on your air and oil filters. Not the oil itself. Changing the oil at more frequent intervals is much more important that the type of oil used when it comes to contamintants. -C | ||
| Ron L (Ronl) Member Username: Ronl Post Number: 190 Registered: 11-2002 |
Contamination is the key element, gas washing etc...Hence the frequency. You think 3K is too soon try doing synthetic TORCO or Royal Purple every 3 miles. (YES THREE) ;-) | ||
| Geoff 93 RRC (Geoff) Member Username: Geoff Post Number: 125 Registered: 11-2002 |
I did some research on this too out of curiosity. Seems to me Mobil Delvac 1 synthetic 5w-40 is the best for these engines. Has diesel additive package and can go 100K miles without a change assuming you had the right filtering system like those in trucks. Anyway the viscosity at operating temp is between the 30 and 50 weight Mobil 1s and probably right for this engine in terms of maintaining oil pressure and filling assembly tolerances. I also think I would go with the conventional Delvac 1300 (10w-30 or 15w-40). Chevron Delo is good too. I have seen 0w-40 at Walmarts now and would like to try it too. Having pulled the main bearing caps on my engine (104K at the time), the ones at the rear of the engine (farthest from the pump) had the most wear, so I think flow at startup is important. | ||
| chris cox (Roverpartsnc) New Member Username: Roverpartsnc Post Number: 9 Registered: 09-2003 |
I have a 97 D90 SW, and I am the second owner. The previous owner insatlled an Amsoil bypass filtration system the first week he had it. He ran 0w-30 Amsoil for almost 180,000 miles, only changing the oil every 20-25000 miles (documented). Synthetics are a big improvement over regular motor oil, but bypass filtration systems make the biggest difference, even if not using synthetic. | ||
| June H. Han (Junehhan) Member Username: Junehhan Post Number: 110 Registered: 04-2003 |
The bypass filtration system is a pain in the ass to install, especially if you are tight on space as it takes up a lot of room. The bypass filtration system also causes a slight pressure drop, although it probably isn't enough to cause a difference as i've personally seen people run the Amsoil bypass filtration system, and have experienced exactly what you stated. I'm surprised that someone would run a 0w30 oil in this motor as I thought it would be way to thin. The beauty of the Amsoil bypass filtration system, is that it can filter particles as small as 1micron, and since it's particles that are generally 4 microns or bigger that cause a majority of engine wear, you have eliminated a lot of potential wear from that engine. The Amsoil setup also maintains near full flow as it only draws about 10% of the oil at any instant in time, while the rest is filtered by the full flow filter in the bypass setup. As far as running diesel synthetic oils, you may want to be cautious because they tend to have an incredibly heavy additive package. These additives can not only increase the engine's chances of causing pinging, but it can also prematurely foul the spark plugs. This is partially the reason why very high performance race oils generally contain very few, if any additives at all. | ||
| chris cox (Roverpartsnc) New Member Username: Roverpartsnc Post Number: 10 Registered: 09-2003 |
I also reccomend that if you have a higher mileage engine (approaching 100k), to use oils that are specially formulated for higher mileage engine. Alot of oils commonly used, like Rotella 15w-40, contain many detergents and additives that will cause your engine's seals to leak like a sieve (if they aren't already). | ||
| Bob (Yomtov) Member Username: Yomtov Post Number: 119 Registered: 01-2003 |
I have 143k on my Disco and has used dino oil since new. I bought some MObil 1 10w -30 and want to switch over to synthetic. Is this recommended ? I would like to upgrade the oil filter as well what is the best filter cost no option ? Thanks in advance. | ||
| Joey (Joey4420) Senior Member Username: Joey4420 Post Number: 323 Registered: 04-2003 |
Bob, if cost is no option, go and get you a Amsoil Bypass Filtration system. I am looking at putting one on my Disco. Might be a pain to find a place to mount, but Oil is only good as long as it is clean. | ||
| Bob (Yomtov) Member Username: Yomtov Post Number: 120 Registered: 01-2003 |
I would rather stick to a conventional oil filter I am sure that there are better ones out there. Any suggestions ?? Thanks again. | ||
| Ron Brown (Ron) Senior Member Username: Ron Post Number: 521 Registered: 04-2001 |
"As far as running diesel synthetic oils, you may want to be cautious because they tend to have an incredibly heavy additive package. These additives can not only increase the engine's chances of causing pinging, but it can also prematurely foul the spark plugs. This is partially the reason why very high performance race oils generally contain very few, if any additives at all." This is precisely WHY I run the rotella synthetic, I want the additives, zinc, deterents etc. The rover V8 is know to be a dirty engine, and the fact they always run rich complicates this fact. So I like the cleanzing effect of the rotella, whether it really works or not I don't know but at least I buy the theory. Ron | ||
| Joey (Joey4420) Senior Member Username: Joey4420 Post Number: 326 Registered: 04-2003 |
Ron Brown, What weight of Shell Rotella are you running, I go by alot of Truck stops, so it is easier as cheaper to buy it by the gallon there. I know my Dad (a Semi Driver for longer than I have been alive) run Shell Rotella T in is old Chevy Pickup, but he is running 20w50 a little heavier than I would like to run. | ||
| Phillip Perkinson (Rover4x4) Senior Member Username: Rover4x4 Post Number: 484 Registered: 02-2003 |
i hear the bypass is messy. i have seen one on a defender 4.0 it was indeed a mess | ||
| Ron Brown (Ron) Senior Member Username: Ron Post Number: 527 Registered: 04-2001 |
5w 40 synthetic. My understanding is rotella is 15w 40 regular or 5w 40 synthetic. 15 is too high for winter in PA IMHO Ron | ||
| Bob (Yomtov) Member Username: Yomtov Post Number: 121 Registered: 01-2003 |
Now I am confused I have been getting conflicting advice on dino vs synthetic. With a high mileage engine (144k) synthetic will tend to make the engine leak more oil and is not really recommended ? Help ! | ||
| Bill Howell (Billh13) Member Username: Billh13 Post Number: 217 Registered: 03-2003 |
I run a synthetic blend that supposed to condition the seals and stop leaks. It also is supposed to clean out the sludge. We'll see after this next oil change. | ||
| Geoff 93 RRC (Geoff) Member Username: Geoff Post Number: 127 Registered: 11-2002 |
Bob, my $.02. Any oil (mineral or synthetic) will make a seal leak if the seal is only working because sludge is plugging the gaps. This is because the additive packages in most modern oils have detergents. Due to different operating requirements diesel oils have more detergents than say gasoline racing oils. I started using synthetic at about 88K miles (when I bought the thing). Parts of the rear main and the pan gasket began to leak. Fixed gaskets, no more leaking. In general if you want the best oil, buy synthetic. They don't leave sludge, have high quality additive packages, and are the most stable in extreme (cold/hot or heavy use) conditions. Other than that any quality 10w-30 or 15w-40 (follow owner's manual) mineral oil will work generally just fine if changed regularly. |
