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Wes Legaspi (Wes)
Member Username: Wes
Post Number: 179 Registered: 02-2002
| Posted on Tuesday, October 14, 2003 - 05:42 pm: |
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Need to get my disco aligned, my question is, should I go to the dealer to get an alignment or is any alignment shop ok? thanks |
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Mike Bauer (Mikeb)
Member Username: Mikeb
Post Number: 126 Registered: 02-2003
| Posted on Tuesday, October 14, 2003 - 05:54 pm: |
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Alignment on a D1 is nothing special. I would think that nearly any shop that does alignment would be able to do the job. Thanks, Mike B. |
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Michael Mason (Lrmike)
New Member Username: Lrmike
Post Number: 2 Registered: 10-2003
| Posted on Tuesday, October 14, 2003 - 07:28 pm: |
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There is only one adjustment on the D1, the toe setting. If your camber or caster are off, then something is bent or badly worn (i.e. obvious) or you've lifted it ! After my 2" lift my front caster angles are at 0.25 degrees, as opposed to factory spec of 2.5 degrees! The short answer is - take it to any reputable shop, don't pay extra for any 'additional adjustments' Mike |
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Wes Legaspi (Wes)
Member Username: Wes
Post Number: 180 Registered: 02-2002
| Posted on Tuesday, October 14, 2003 - 08:26 pm: |
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It's lifted, so I'm all over the freeway! thanks for the input! |
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Bill Bettridge (Billb)
Dweb Lounge Member Username: Billb
Post Number: 1167 Registered: 02-2002
| Posted on Wednesday, October 15, 2003 - 07:22 am: |
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Wes - it's just 1/8" toe out - you can do it in your driveway with a tape measure. As long as the track rod is somewhat free to turn - you can do it with a pipe wrench. Toe probably will not cure lifted truck woes - that is a matter of castor which is not easily corrected - but there have been hundreds of discussions on this. Bill |
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Joey (Joey4420)
Senior Member Username: Joey4420
Post Number: 306 Registered: 04-2003
| Posted on Wednesday, October 15, 2003 - 08:01 am: |
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You can also just make a cheap alignment tool... see this site for info. It is not hard. I had mine done when I bought new tires. (4 tires = free alignment) Watch the alignment guy, I see how easy it can be done. http://www.sf.hiof.no/~frodehaa/disco.html |
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Wes Legaspi (Wes)
Member Username: Wes
Post Number: 181 Registered: 02-2002
| Posted on Wednesday, October 15, 2003 - 08:30 am: |
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Thanks for the additional tips guys. Bill, regarding the lifted truck woes in the archives, I've searched and read, but it seems like I can't get enough of the topic. thanks again! |
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John Roche (Jroc)
Member Username: Jroc
Post Number: 198 Registered: 08-2002
| Posted on Wednesday, October 15, 2003 - 11:29 am: |
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take it to any reputable shop, don't pay extra for any 'additional adjustments' If your truck is raised, and taller tires have been added, is it alright to just go with factory specs? Anyone know what they are? Thanx '95 Disco 3" Ome lift w/ 235/85's |
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Mike Mason (Lrmike)
New Member Username: Lrmike
Post Number: 4 Registered: 10-2003
| Posted on Thursday, October 16, 2003 - 10:06 pm: |
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John - I don't remember exactly, but the toe is around .10", I think it is supposed to be neg (out). Caster is ideally around 2.5-3.0 degrees, but with a lift you'll roll the axle around closer to 0, and hence the more wander (caster is the primary angle that provides straight ahead stability and wheel self-centering). Cant remember camber, but it isn't much, under .7 degrees I think. The bad new - you'll not be able to get your caster back from that lift without some modification. OME makes off-set radius arm bushings to help correct, but they don't recommend them installed in AT cars, and there is some question as to their durability, especially if you like to flex. Rovertym Engineering offers one of the most permanent solutions by reindexing your swivels to put back the caster. It involves having the truck down for several days and 2 alignments, though. I've been considering engineering a means to adjust the axle to radius arm orientation with eccentric cam bolts, if anyone else has any interest, post it here or e-mail me and I'll get off the stick and see what I can come up with. Mike
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Bruce Potier (Brucep)
Member Username: Brucep
Post Number: 72 Registered: 06-2003
| Posted on Thursday, October 23, 2003 - 05:20 pm: |
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I had to install new tie-rod ends. Before I got the pickle-fork out, I used a clever approach seen on Otto�s page to ensure the correct alignment after reassembly of the tie-rod. It�s simple. I used two pieces of PVC pipe, one larger diameter, one smaller, so they work like the expandable drapery rods. Measured back of rim, marked alignment on PVC. Measured front of rim, marked on PVC. Yup, about 1/8 difference or close to that. After reassembly, used the marks to ensure the same measurements. This is only advisable if your alignment was correct to begin with.
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Brian Dickens (Bri)
Senior Member Username: Bri
Post Number: 751 Registered: 08-2002
| Posted on Thursday, October 23, 2003 - 08:36 pm: |
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Rovertym no longer does the caster correction. Maybe GBR does, but there is little demand to do this and it has not been profitable for them AFAIK. I use a similar trick to the PVC, but with a 3 threaded rods attached to each other with couplers. Search, this technique has been discussed here tons. A tape measure does not get close enough no matter how har you try wince you have to be within the 0-2mm toe out that is spec'ed. A tape, string or most other measuring devises other then the suggested PVC or threaded rod will flex > 2mm so you will not be accurtate enough. |
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Peter Sharratt (Gummikuh)
Member Username: Gummikuh
Post Number: 242 Registered: 02-2003
| Posted on Friday, October 24, 2003 - 05:23 am: |
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Hi Tomcat here in the UK are still doing the re-engineered swivels. Pete S |