| Author | Message | ||
     Sergei Rodionov (Uzbad) Member Username: Uzbad Post Number: 141 Registered: 08-2003 |
Well i am struggling to get cursed centralizing peg off from rear differential. I am wondering - if i cant get it off - can i just shove off 3rd member away and get new one? If so - where i can get one and what $$ i am looking at?  I was about to take stuff apart anyway to install new R&P. (i did search, so i know about heating trick - will try tonight..) Thanks | ||
| thom mathie (Muskyman) Senior Member Username: Muskyman Post Number: 382 Registered: 11-2002 |
slide hammer | ||
| Peter Matusov (Pmatusov) Senior Member Username: Pmatusov Post Number: 1104 Registered: 09-2002 |
replace the 3rd member 'cause of the peg? why do you want to replace the R&P? | ||
| Sergei Rodionov (Uzbad) Member Username: Uzbad Post Number: 142 Registered: 08-2003 |
Peter, few reasons: - got 31.7" tires, hence gearing is seriously off, and i am living at 7K altitude, meaning truck loosing about 30HP here from sea level. So i need to get gearing back somehow to stop screaming from pain when i am going over pass at 10-11K - truck is 130+K miles old and those parts werent really serviced correctly, judging by overall shape of other parts. - i am planning to stick ARB in there in next two month hmm.. what else.. thats about it really  I dont want to replace 3rd member b/c of peg, but heck - if i cant get bloody thing out - what choice i have. | ||
| Peter Matusov (Pmatusov) Senior Member Username: Pmatusov Post Number: 1105 Registered: 09-2002 |
that sounds like a good reason to swap the diff. I have front and rear 3rd members sitting in my garage, may loan them to you if you need them. The rear already has the yoke and spacer cannibalized. | ||
| Sergei Rodionov (Uzbad) Member Username: Uzbad Post Number: 143 Registered: 08-2003 |
Thanks I will try to get it out tonight, and if i will fail , then all bets are off and i am getting thing ripped apart. | ||
| Tom Fioretti (Tom_in_md) Member Username: Tom_in_md Post Number: 101 Registered: 02-2003 |
FWIW I caved in, after hours of struggling, and had a real mechanic remove my centralizing peg with a hammer and a blow-torch. ~115K miles at the time. | ||
| Brian Dickens (Bri) Senior Member Username: Bri Post Number: 747 Registered: 08-2002 |
Sergei, The trick really is the slide hammer with the proper bolt that goes into the centering peg. I tried everything you are trying. Did not work. Either take it to a mechanic with a good set of slide hammer stuff or go get the slide hammer and fit the proper bolt to it. Once you have the slide hammer setup it will take you about 30 second-- NO KIDDING, took me more like 3 seconds. | ||
| Sergei Rodionov (Uzbad) Member Username: Uzbad Post Number: 144 Registered: 08-2003 |
Well.. Tried to heat up stuff and pull - no go.. Tried to go to local shops - none had stuff to fit metric thread 8(. I am giving up. Just will have to sort out new third member, probably with pressed in things for ARB.. *sighs* | ||
| Brian Dickens (Bri) Senior Member Username: Bri Post Number: 749 Registered: 08-2002 |
Sergei, Drive yourself to a decent hardware store to get a metric bolt to fit the peg. Easiest done if you remove rear shaft and drive w/ front locked diff. Then go get a slide hammer that has a variety of attachments. Look at the attachments carfully, you can likely rig (grind or cut off) one so that the bolt will fit and still screw onto the attachment. One or two nice hits and you should be good to go. Another alternative would be to take the bolt to a machine shop, have the shop weld a piece of L shaped metal about 12-18" long to the bolt. Then smack the end of it with a nice hammer. That peg will come out so fast you will be amazed. Silly to have to get a new 3rd member for this reason, but do not pay >$400 for a brand new part and it seems like from this thread maybe you have some alternatives. | ||
| Sergei Rodionov (Uzbad) Member Username: Uzbad Post Number: 148 Registered: 08-2003 |
Brian, what kind of beer/drink you like? Thanks for talking me into it, i went to NAPA store (normally they aint got what i need so skept it when was buggering around) - ordered sliding hammer for around 69$, and few minutes ago i got that bugger out. Yahooooo New flange looks kind of silly in comparition to old one (its shorter) and i had to do some excorsism to get darn nut off, but its there Finally i got measurements that Tom was waiting on, so my new drive shaft shall be on its way to me quite soon.. Now i just need to get waterpump, alternator and R&P sorted out and i will be happy man (till i will stick lockers in..) Thanks for all the help folks! | ||
| Peter J Blatt (Peteb) Senior Member Username: Peteb Post Number: 270 Registered: 10-2002 |
Is the new flange from a rrc or something to use a u-joint drive shaft? Be cautious, there may be a spacer that is needed! and without it your inner pinion bearing will meet your ring gear! Happened to me. | ||
| Sergei Rodionov (Uzbad) Member Username: Uzbad Post Number: 150 Registered: 08-2003 |
Peter - new flange is for Disco, its upgrade kit. Comes with spacer (spent a bit of time pressing it on) and new odd seal. Available from autopartsgo.com Thanks for warning though.. I'll check out how well it prevents flange from going back and fourth | ||
| Brian Dickens (Bri) Senior Member Username: Bri Post Number: 752 Registered: 08-2002 |
Excellent! My only requirement on beer is, that life is too short to drink cheap beer. ;-) Cheers! |
