| Author | Message | ||
     Milan (Milan) Senior Member Username: Milan Post Number: 284 Registered: 10-2002 |
Hi gang, Our Disco needs new tie rod ends. There's a bit of play in them and they seem very dry, yet are not greasable. Are there other make TREs that fit or should I just get replacement ones from LR? Does LR have greasable version? Thanks, Milan | ||
| Bill Bettridge (Billb) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Billb Post Number: 1211 Registered: 02-2002 |
Milan, You can get greasable TRE's from DAP - about US$12.00 or so each Bill | ||
| Milan (Milan) Senior Member Username: Milan Post Number: 285 Registered: 10-2002 |
Thanks Bill, I know I've been here long enough to know and I see DAP come up often but what is their addy/phone? Do you know of any upgrades for these, like Chevy ends or something like that? Thanks. | ||
| Trevor (Daredvl) Member Username: Daredvl Post Number: 88 Registered: 03-2003 |
I know you need three of one thread, and 1 of the other. Which ones are needed on the drag link at the front? And which end does each thread go on. | ||
| Eric (Epuffy) Member Username: Epuffy Post Number: 111 Registered: 07-2003 |
Hey Bill, where are they $12 a piece? DAP has a kit for $69.95 with all 4 balljoints, otherwise I see them as $19.95 a piece. http://www.dap-inc.com/homeframe.htm Trevor, there are 3 right hand thread and one left hand thread. So, right goes on the right of the truck, and the left on the left I am assuming. haha. What's the "greasable version"? | ||
| Phillip Perkinson (Rover4x4) Senior Member Username: Rover4x4 Post Number: 488 Registered: 02-2003 |
www.roversdownsouth.com has them as well | ||
| Eric (Epuffy) Member Username: Epuffy Post Number: 112 Registered: 07-2003 |
what's the difference between the regular ball joints and the ball joints with grease fittings? I need to change mine I think, and I think i'm going to go ahead and switch all 4. | ||
| Milan (Milan) Senior Member Username: Milan Post Number: 286 Registered: 10-2002 |
By "greasable version" I meant the same TRE as stock only with a grease/zerk fitting on it. Shouldn't there be 2 LH thread and 2 RH ones. How would you adjust the drag link with 2 RH threads on without taking it off every time? Anyway, I don't doubt the 3+1 thing, just wondering why? | ||
| Frode Hübertz Haaland (Discofrode) Member Username: Discofrode Post Number: 130 Registered: 02-2002 |
Usually the greaseable ones have poorer sealing than the "sealed for life" ones (i.e.: go for non-greaseable). The trackrod use same threading both ends UJs, but there's an adjuster on one end of it - and that's LH+RH threaded (that usually sticks, so you'll have to resort to the old-style "swinging the UJ" to adjust the length of the track rod anyway... | ||
| Peter Sharratt (Gummikuh) Member Username: Gummikuh Post Number: 248 Registered: 02-2003 |
Hi I have to say my track rod ends lasted 70,000 miles before 1 needed replacement. Is it really worth going to the expense of greasable ones? The standard ones only cost about �12 each. Pete S | ||
| Trevor (Daredvl) Member Username: Daredvl Post Number: 91 Registered: 03-2003 |
Can someone confirm its the LH thread at the drag-link pitman arm connection? | ||
| Milan (Milan) Senior Member Username: Milan Post Number: 295 Registered: 10-2002 |
Well mine are only 40K old and with almost no off-roading. The greasable ones on my other vehicle which gets wheeled a lot (and we have a lot of mud and gritty waters here) are still good a 45K. I'll see. Maybe I'll just spring for the stock ones. But U-joints, for example, I buy non-greasable. But they get replaced more often. | ||
| Brian (Bthaxton) Member Username: Bthaxton Post Number: 44 Registered: 02-2003 |
L/H thread = steering drop arm. |
