| Author | Message | ||
     Bruce Potier (Brucep) Member Username: Brucep Post Number: 80 Registered: 06-2003 |
Just say NO to squishy carpet!!! I am getting so damn tired to yanking-out that carpet padding, drying in the sun and reinstalling it. There has to be a better way… I think there are a lot of cleaver ideas on what you have done to address the problem of retaining moisture in the padding under your carpet. For those where the rig is a daily driver, whatever you suggest, remember we want to retain the noise reduction and heat insulation properties … Don’t forget to tell us where you got the material. So, what have you used? | ||
| Joe M. (Little_joe) Member Username: Little_joe Post Number: 214 Registered: 11-2002 |
I POR15'd and Herculined my 96 D1 interior, then threw the carpet over top. Works great, only slightly louder than previously, but being a Rover and having MTR's it doesn't much matter. joe | ||
| Bruce Potier (Brucep) Member Username: Brucep Post Number: 82 Registered: 06-2003 |
Joe, Hope you don’t mind but I have several questions for you about the effort and application of Herculiner in the Disco. 1. How long did it take you to disassemble, prep the surface, apply and then reassemble? 2. How thick did you apply it? 3. How far up did you go on the trans tunnel, pillars etc? 4. You mentioned road noise increased, but have you noticed heat increases? 5. How much more noise is it? 6. Why did you go with Herculiner versus Rhinoliner? Thanks in advance. | ||
| Joe M. (Little_joe) Member Username: Little_joe Post Number: 215 Registered: 11-2002 |
Hi Bruce, let me qualify that I did not do 100% of the interior, basically just the floors and upwards a bit - kind of like if you laid a rubber mat in w/ 4" tall sides. *1. How long did it take you to disassemble, prep the surface, apply and then reassemble?* I did it all over a weekend. Tore everything down Friday night, prepped and POR'd Saturday, applied herculiner Sunday. POR takes a long time - I think if you aren't using it, you could do this in a day, day and a half. *2. How thick did you apply it?* Not very - it is rather thin, and I did two heavy coats. It's maybe 5mm thick. *3. How far up did you go on the trans tunnel, pillars etc?* Couple of inches up from the floor. Again, I kind of made it like a mat to catch water. *4. You mentioned road noise increased, but have you noticed heat increases? *5. How much more noise is it?** I haven't noticed anything. Road noise was bad before, it's the same now. I haven't noticed any heat increases. I ended up sealing up some drain plugs/grommets and that helped w/ noise. *6. Why did you go with Herculiner versus Rhinoliner?* Because a friend gave me a gallon of herc for free and Rhinoliner is very expensive.  I had to POR15 to cure the rust problems under the mats. joe | ||
| Bruce Potier (Brucep) Member Username: Brucep Post Number: 83 Registered: 06-2003 |
Thanks Joe. A rhino dealer quoted me $500, if I disassembled everything myself. I am getting just a touch of rust as well under the mats, so looks like POR15 for me as well. Did you POR15 the entire truck floor or just in specific areas? I looked on the POR15-site, but saw nothing indicating lenghty application time for POR15, what gives? Thanks Bruce | ||
| Joe M. (Little_joe) Member Username: Little_joe Post Number: 216 Registered: 11-2002 |
Hi Bruce, here is a shot of just the cargo area: http://www.4x4wire.com/reviews/por15/herculined.jpg I POR15'd the entire floor. It takes time because you have to clean it real good with Marine Clean then use Metal Ready. Once you start painting, it flies - let each coat get tacky (less than an hour?) then apply the next coat. I primed it too before doing the herculiner,a nd let the primer dry overnight. Primer isn't required. If you herc it yourself, you can apply that while the POR15 is still tacky - I called them and they recommend this process. FYI the silver POR15 is thicker than the black (not much really), so that'll help build up the surface. joe | ||
| BW (Bwallace35) Member Username: Bwallace35 Post Number: 77 Registered: 07-2002 |
Bruce, This is one job you definitely don't want to pay anyone to do. Besides, $500 is pretty steep in my opinion. I did the same thing as Joe except I herculined everything. Road noise increased slightly but heck, the creaks still drown out the road noise. The side walls of the gear shifter get a bit warm during the summer but adding a thicker coat to this area will help. Of course, the temp gets a bit higher in Arizona during the summer. It's definitely worth it. Joe posted a good "after" pic. Here is a "before" pic.  | ||
| thom mathie (Muskyman) Senior Member Username: Muskyman Post Number: 409 Registered: 11-2002 |
I completly disagree $500 is a total steal on RHino liner!!!! Rhino liner is priced by volume and labor, the amount of labor to do a good job on a vehicle with 5 doors ,1 step and as many windows as a green house is pretty involved. also the quality of what a finished Rhino lined job compared to the herculiner is night and day. Herculiner flakes and peels Rhino wears like concrete. If I could really get mine done with Rhino or linnex for $500 I would do it in a blink, all the companies around here want more like $800 to $1000 MM | ||
| ken knebusch (Charlotterover) Senior Member Username: Charlotterover Post Number: 255 Registered: 02-2002 |
Bruce, after you herculine it you can replace the carpet too. I bought a truck bed liner from an auto part store, flipped it so the knobby side was up and cut it to fit from the back of my front seats to the rear cargo door. It turned out great. The rubber smell is finally beginning to fade. I chose to keep the padding under it. I don't see water like you must. Just another idea. Ken | ||
| Bruce Potier (Brucep) Member Username: Brucep Post Number: 84 Registered: 06-2003 |
To all thanks. Joe, rear seats, mat, carpet...all are out. Since I have only one little area that has beginings of rust, my POR15 effort is minimal. Thanks for the picture. Muskyman, got even a better price now for Rhino, that is $400, but stiil I have to strip everything out of truck. To ALL: If you were to get the cabin soaked 4-5 times/year, have the floor treated (no more rust worries), NOW what would you use to place under the carpet to give padding & insulate from heat/noise???? It has to allow moisture to pass through for evaporation or shop-vac clean-up. Yes, I live in Florida and I see lots of swamp driving. Thanks Bruce | ||
| Sean Clawson (Jacintyre) New Member Username: Jacintyre Post Number: 9 Registered: 09-2003 |
Personally I would just put the carpet right over the top if I even used the carpet at all. If you are going with the Rhino(that is a steal) it builds up pretty thick. So now you have an additional heat/noise barrier that wasn't there before. I don't see a need for anything additional to hold water and that has to be cleaned. | ||
| Andrew Maier (Newman) Senior Member Username: Newman Post Number: 351 Registered: 04-2003 |
Heavy-duty rubber floor mats. If you feel like maintaining a "genuine LR" look, use the Genuine LR Rubber Floor Mats. Andy | ||
| Bruce Potier (Brucep) Member Username: Brucep Post Number: 85 Registered: 06-2003 |
Since she is my daily driver, I would reinstall carpet. Pulling-up carpet to dry is easy and drys quick, so not-so bothersome to me anyway. Yup, I agree, Rhino is thicker, more rubbery, so noise/heat is reduced over Herculiner or other DIY products. Andy, I already have rubber floor mats and yes they catch alot of water/mud. I just gotta work some clever approach to get that darn Rhino price down somehow, hmmmmm? | ||
| Bruce Potier (Brucep) Member Username: Brucep Post Number: 87 Registered: 06-2003 |
Have been doing some research on the best rust-killer product. Called around to serveral Metal fabricators and Metal finishing shops. POR15 got some solid backing. Looks like it's time to follow Joe's path, do the entire truck and forget about future rust potential, from inside anyway. Going to get my supplies today and start this weekend while truck is stripped. Thanks again for the input D-Webers! | ||
| Sean Clawson (Jacintyre) New Member Username: Jacintyre Post Number: 11 Registered: 09-2003 |
Bruce, that rhino price is excellent! I was $625 to do the rear bed of my series IIA. I'd jump at that price, of course if you can get it lower that would be great, but I would be surprised. | ||
| Jay Reeves (Jay) New Member Username: Jay Post Number: 9 Registered: 10-2003 |
Can someone point me in the direction of this POR15? I wanna check out this stuff. | ||
| Victor Biro (Vabiro) New Member Username: Vabiro Post Number: 2 Registered: 10-2003 |
I just did a Google search for POR15 +rust and found their site at http://www.por15.com. They have a complete kit for "Floor Pan and Trunk" restoration for $120 (http://www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=305) KIT CONTAINS: MARINE-CLEAN™ Metal cleaner METAL-READY™ Metal Prep Power Mesh Fabric POR-15® Silver POR-15® Black EPOXY PUTTY CHASSISCOAT BLACK™ POR-15 SOLVENT® All brushes needed (4) Safety face mask Latex gloves Dispensing scoop Detailed instructions. At that price it might be worth doing just as a precaution. The question I have is, what can be done to prevent the galvanic action where the aluminium and steel meet? For example, at the bottom of the rear passenger doors, over the wheel wells. Victor | ||
| Joe M. (Little_joe) Member Username: Little_joe Post Number: 223 Registered: 11-2002 |
Victor, I used the floor pan kit to do the exact spots you mentioned. I already had rust there to fix. joe | ||
| Jamie (Rover_puppy) Senior Member Username: Rover_puppy Post Number: 370 Registered: 05-2003 |
Bruce, Are you still working on it today? I'd just luv to see what you're doing while you've got it apart. I'm free mid afternoon today and could drive over, give me a call. I don't know where you phone number is, if I even have it? I've been leaving Peli Desiccan Silica Gel packs in sections of my rover in an attempt to get that last bit of moisture out (it's worth a try, right?). I've been thinking about going to Walmart and getting those big Damp Rid buckets to leave in my truck during the night. With all this humidity, I've been having a tuff time trying to get mine dried out and future rust potential has been on my mind. My latest soaking is not from swamping, it's because some dumb bunny (me) left all the windows and sunroofs open in a heavy downpour. I had to put the rubber mats back in last night, but that's just going to trap the residual moisture. Bruce, I'll send you an email you too. Hope we can hook up. Thanks, Jamie | ||
| Bruce Potier (Brucep) Member Username: Brucep Post Number: 88 Registered: 06-2003 |
Update: I stripped out everything, rear seats and cargo area. Garage was full. Took me about 4 hours to prep the inside. POR15 was easy to apply. Living in Florida, the humidity was mid 90s so POR15 started to get thick before I was ¼ completed… Within 1-1/2 hours, paint job was rock hard, wow that was fast! Next weekend, the front-end. Few tips I learned: 1- use sandpaper instead of flapwheel, 100-grit really does the job easily, without much elbow grease and the old paint does not foul the paper as fast with 100 grit versus 400. Tried a flapwheel, to much effort, cords, heat, on and on…I think I used 4-sheets total 2- used a common #2 pencil to get the channels of the bed ribs, just wrap-sandpaper around pencil and run it up and down, presto, paint is gone. 3 – used a little bell-shaped wire brush to get difficult corners 4 – POR15, use latex gloves for sure, use small container to paint from, use plastic wrap over can and reseal immediately after you pour initial batch into small container… you CANNOT reuse leftovers with POR15, so once it leaves the can you either apply it or plan on throwing it away because it starts to cure as soon as exposed to humidity. So be cautious with how-much you take from the can. A little goes along-way. 5 – any POR15 on skin or mistakes, remove immediately with spirits, else it’s there for good. Padding – Well I searched a couple of places for padding alternatives, I could not find anything other than the stuff called ‘New Foam”, but yikes at $7.50/yard… So, had an epiphany, why not seal the original padding and avoid that water-absorption issue? I got some plastic bumper spray paint from PlastiKote and sprayed the original padding. Ran water over it, let it sit, no absorption. I doubt this will be the answer, but who knows. From the inside-out, I have no more worries about rust. I might do the Rhino deal yet. It is good to have a quiet Rover again, well relatively speaking it’s quiet. |
