| Author | Message | ||
     Eric (Epuffy) Member Username: Epuffy Post Number: 129 Registered: 07-2003 |
I got my set of new tie-rod ends (ball jounts) from DAP, and was thinking of installing them myself, but I read a write-up about it and it seemed like it was going to be a PITA to do. I don't have anything to heat up the track rod in the event that the ball joints are frozen in there. Anyone done this themself? Or if someone has gotten a shop to do it for them, how much did they charge you? I was quoted at $140 for all 4 installed, but was curious how much others paid. Cheers, Eric | ||
| Eric (Epuffy) Member Username: Epuffy Post Number: 130 Registered: 07-2003 |
BTW, This was my first order from DAP Inc and was exceptionally happy with their service (though they spelled my name wrong). The ball joint kit (4 balljoints) was only $70, and they only charged me $8 shipping all the way from Vermont to Seattle! | ||
| Bruce Potier (Brucep) Member Username: Brucep Post Number: 89 Registered: 06-2003 |
Get a pickle-fork and remove and install yourself. Afterwards, you may need to have a shop set your toe. I had 78K on my orginal set and a couple of good hits on the fork and they were out. Hint, once rods are removed, place ball-jt in vice and use large pipe-wrench to twist the rod and remove the ball-jt. Count the number of turns, paint the exposed rod threads, use string to measure wheel's toe, etc... all different approaches towards getting the correct toe-in/out set after you reinstall. Good luck. | ||
| Clif Ashley (Cta586) Senior Member Username: Cta586 Post Number: 374 Registered: 04-2002 |
Before I even tried went out and bought a torch. Took the rod out, heated the ends, cinched on some vise grips and it came right out. It is worth the small investment for the torch, and it will come in handy in the future. | ||
| Eric (Epuffy) Member Username: Epuffy Post Number: 136 Registered: 07-2003 |
How much is a torch? I'd like to either do it myself, or get it done by someone else, this weekend. | ||
| Mark Devereux (Groupw) Member Username: Groupw Post Number: 112 Registered: 12-2002 |
Torch is cheap. You just need one of those propane deals. Also, if you're worried about frozen threads, pull the track rod the night before and give the threads a good soaking with penetrating oil. I say do it yourself. BTW, if you use a pickle fork to release the ball joints, you better be prepared to replace the rubber boots. | ||
| Brian (Bthaxton) Member Username: Bthaxton Post Number: 47 Registered: 02-2003 |
Do it yourself. My '97 D1 had 100K miles and mine came off easily with the use of penetrating oil and a vice. Just count threads and reinstall the same way. My steering wheel was even straight. Just make sure the wheels are pointed straight ahead when you do the job. | ||
| Eric (Epuffy) Member Username: Epuffy Post Number: 140 Registered: 07-2003 |
What else can you use besides a picle fork to get the tie rods out? I tried tugging, but that obviously didn't work. haha. | ||
| Mike Bauer (Mikeb) Member Username: Mikeb Post Number: 139 Registered: 02-2003 |
I used a piece of wood and a bottle jack. I put the piece of wood between the tie rod end and the bottle jack. Using the bottle jack, I just put a little pressure on the tie rod end and then let off. It popped right off each time. Very easy. Thanks, Mike B. | ||
| Eric (Epuffy) Member Username: Epuffy Post Number: 141 Registered: 07-2003 |
Even the one on the right hand one that comes off downwards? I was thinking of using a jack also, but was scared I might bust something accidentally. | ||
| Bill Bettridge (Billb) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Billb Post Number: 1236 Registered: 02-2002 |
Don't use a pickle fork! All you need is a good size hammer - whack the knuckle where the TRE goes through. Usually only 2-3 good hits are necessary and the vibration loosens the taper. You won't hurt the knuckle - hammer in the direction of the knukle. Bill | ||
| Bruce Potier (Brucep) Member Username: Brucep Post Number: 91 Registered: 06-2003 |
Let me see, Eric is replacing his ball-jts, so no need to worry about boot carnage, who cares? Eric, now you have several different approaches to use. No fork, then bottle-jack or hammer it out. Good luck. | ||
| Eric (Epuffy) Member Username: Epuffy Post Number: 142 Registered: 07-2003 |
Thanks fellas, I just got done doing the front 2 TRE's. I tried whacking them to get them out, but that didn't work. So I went down to Schucks and rented a TRE tool set for $6, and the pickle fork (the one that you screw to tighten) worked like a charm. They really "POP" out when they come loosened. One TRE screwed out of the steering rod really easily (drivers side), but the other side was pretty frozen so I use PB Blaster and a propane torch ($11), and It came out pretty easy after that. I counted the turns, but when I reinstalled it line up right, so I adjusted the TRE length(ignoring the # of turns thing) and got it lined up pretty easily. Took about 2 hours total, and wasn't as hard as I thought it'd be. Thanks for all your advice everyone. Cheers | ||
| Eric (Epuffy) Member Username: Epuffy Post Number: 143 Registered: 07-2003 |
Oh, and just a note. I bought a set of those pipe wrenches with the rubber strip that supposedly grabs onto round things well. They suck shit and don't hold on to anything. Don't get them. Vice grips seem to be my best friend. |
