| Author | Message | ||
     Ben (Roverguy) Member Username: Roverguy Post Number: 57 Registered: 06-2003 |
I'm having a strange problem with my recently purchased '92 County. First of all, the Rover starts and idles fine (maybe a bit high, but ok). After driving for a while, it starts to stumble on acceleration. It then just keeps getting worse after that. It gets so bad that any acceleration at all causes the engine to seriously stumble (or misfire) and sound like it's about to quit. The only way to keep moving is to let off the gas. It eventually gets so bad that the Rover doesn't even want to drive at all. I was thinking it sounded like a dying fuel pump or clogged fuel filter... So I swapped them out. Same thing. I also tried another mass airflow sensor, and just for the hell of it, a different ignition coil. The problem is still present. It seems to me like something might be getting hot and going haywire because if I let it sit for 30 - 60 minutes, all is well, and it will drive great for a quite a while, then the problem shows up again. The engine doesn't seem to be getting any hotter than normal. So far I haven't seen any fault codes on the LED display unit. When this all happens, the air cleaner/airflow sensor gets quite a bit louder than normal... To the point where you can hear it from inside. The fuel pump seems to buzz louder as well once the problem shows up. I've also replaced the spark plugs and wires and the air filter. The problem is still there. I'm curious, does anyone know if an ECU from a '91 can be used in a '92? Because I have a spare from my '91. Also, I'd like to know what can happen when the transmission is overfilled. Some idiot overfilled it by well over an inch on the dipstick. Any input is greatly appreciated! Thanks. | ||
| Micky_dee (Micky_dee) New Member Username: Micky_dee Post Number: 11 Registered: 11-2003 |
replace your high tension leads. i went through the same thing with our 92. thought it was the fuel filter replaced, thought it was timming, so then i lifted the hood one last time in the dark and saw arching all over the place. new set of wires and no more plroblems. these wires were only a few months old. check that my friend. it might help and i hope it does. remove any excess transmission fluid and bring it to the proper markings. i believe that an over full can damage a seal in there. but that i am not 100% on. | ||
| Randall Smith (Mr_smith) Member Username: Mr_smith Post Number: 114 Registered: 04-2003 |
You say that it idles high, and that the intake system is loud when this occurs. So it could possibly be a vacuum leak that gets worse as the engine gets hot. You say that it stumbles upon accelleration, but if you let off the gas it keeps going. That may be a problem with the throttle position sensor. try swapping the TPS from your 1991RR just to rule out the TPS. Also you can swap ECUs to rule out that possibility too. You also say that you can hear the fuel pump getting louder too. That is really unusual. Many people are trying to use fuel pumps from other cars just to save a few bucks. Is this the correct fuel pump, or just a guess at the correct pump?? Another possibility is that the cats are clogged up. | ||
| Ben (Roverguy) Member Username: Roverguy Post Number: 58 Registered: 06-2003 |
Micky: It has brand new Land Rover high tension leads. I suppose the new wires could be bad, but that seems pretty unlikely. I can't say how it ran with the old wires though, because it didn't have any. This is a vehicle that's been sitting for well over a year. Randall: Both fuel pumps I've had in the Rover are official Rover parts. When I swapped the pump out, I used an older style original unit from my '91 that hasn't been used in a while. I hadn't had any problems with that pump on the '91. I removed it from my '91 just as preventitive maintenance. That being said, I have noticed something rather strange... When I first installed the '91 pump, it was quiet. Now, it's as loud as the original pump. I had driven about 40 miles at 60 - 75 MPH after installing the second pump until the problem showed up again. It ran perfectly for those 40 miles, then went nuts on me again. I ended up limping the final 15 miles home at 15 - 45 MPH in the middle of the night. It couldn't even accelerate on the down hills. I pretty much had to coast down the hills and hope for the best. When I finally made it home, it basically didn't want to go any further. I ended up having to leave it at the end of the driveway. I then walked back and tried it about 40 minutes later. It started right up and had no problem driving the rest of the way up the driveway. I've read that a blocked vacuum relief valve in the evaporation tank in the rear quarter panel can cause a vacuum buildup that can cause the tank to collapse and crush the pump. I was wondering if that could be a possibility... But the first pump I removed didn't look to be crushed or damaged. How could I gain access to the evaporation tank to have a look? Doesn't the right rear quarter panel have to be removed to access it? I have one of the newer style pumps I could try, but I'd definitely want to rule out the above vacuum problem first, so I don't risk damaging the newer pump. I guess there is always the chance that the problem is just the pump, and that the used '91 pump I put in was on it's death bed and only had another 40 miles left in it, but that sounds pretty crazy. The passenger side cat has been replaced with an aftermarket cat at some time, so it should be ok. Not sure about the other one though. Although, I would think a blocked cat would cause a problem all the time, not just sometimes? Lastnight, I replaced the rotor and cap. Didn't help any. Thanks a lot for the input, guys! Hopefully I'll be able to get this problem sorted out with help from people like you. | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 1194 Registered: 02-2003 |
this is the same problem my friends RR has, he just parked the truck and is saving money to take it to a pro. one other thing we tried swapping was the Fuel pressure regulator no help. we replaced base plate and adjusted air gap ( things you can do for free are adjust the air gap on the baseplat and also there is a filter on the crank case, on top of the front left (passenger side) unscreew it and clean with paint thinner, dry and reinstall, check for cracked hoses too. we found one that was cracked on the bottom side facing the fire wall that we didnt catch until we really started hunting. let us know. rd | ||
| Brian Anderson (Hans) Member Username: Hans Post Number: 87 Registered: 08-2003 |
Could this be a throttle position sensor? | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 1196 Registered: 02-2003 |
FYI, reading some of the things on RN bbs too we also did the Ignition amplifier no help did ignition rotor (2 time s as first one had crack) fuel pump, generic.. i poersonally thing this is the root of the problem becaue the pressure is still low coil, cap, plugs, spark plugs | ||
| Ben (Roverguy) Member Username: Roverguy Post Number: 59 Registered: 06-2003 |
I'm now thinking that it's very likely that the problem might be due to excessive vacuum in the fuel tank. I can now hear a lot of hissing when removing the fuel cap. I've read that there is a vacuum relief/rollover valve in or around the evaporation tank in the right rear quarter panel... From underneath, I can see a small green and black in-line valve looking device that is next to the fuel filler neck hose. I can also see a larger white in-line device up more towards the fuel filler door. Could either of those be the culprit? To access the evaporation tank, how difficult is it to remove the rear quarter panel? Thanks! | ||
| Greg Hirst (Gregh) Senior Member Username: Gregh Post Number: 359 Registered: 10-2002 |
I think you're on the right track with the vaccuum issue. Are you sure that you hooked up the fuel/return/vacuum hoses up correctly when changing pumps? Were they disconnected/reconnected by anyone prior with your old pump? When you changed pump did you drain fuel tank? Any crap in tank? | ||
| Ben (Roverguy) Member Username: Roverguy Post Number: 61 Registered: 06-2003 |
I haven't touched any hoses except for the two to the pump. When I first looked at the Rover, the vehicle wouldn't even start because the ground spade connector to the pump was corroded. Also, there was no gas cap. Now, that could mean that a previous owner knew about the vacuum problem, and that was their lazy way around fixing it. I was concerned about water in the tank being that there was no cap, but the tank was very close to empty so I filled it up with 93 octane and added 2 Chevron Techron fuel cleaners that also had some sort of water removing additive. I've put about 260 miles on the Rover since then. It now has about 4 gallons left. When I changed the pump, inside the tank looked fine. I also put on a new fuel filter. I get the feeling that the problem is somewhere under that quarter panel.. | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 1198 Registered: 02-2003 |
that quarter panel is a royal bitch to take off, especially if the bolts rusty. rd |
