| Author | Message | ||
     Matt Anderson (Disco01) Member Username: Disco01 Post Number: 46 Registered: 10-2003 |
Hey guys, this may be a dumb question, but do I have to buy a whole new driveshaft or can I simply get the u joints replaced? I am getting a vibration when I step off the gas at highway speeds. Also, when people talk about the rear coupler being cracked, how severe is this? I noticed little shallow cracks around where the bolts go through it. It is a 2001 D2. I recently had the front shaft replaced becuase those joints were bad. | ||
| Doug Campbell (Dougc) New Member Username: Dougc Post Number: 21 Registered: 12-2002 |
yes--you can go to a driveshaft shop or do it yourself. | ||
| Brian Dickens (Bri) Senior Member Username: Bri Post Number: 834 Registered: 08-2002 |
Pricey I believe. Check and if it is, then get something with easily maintained joints. | ||
| Tom Fioretti (Tom_in_md) Member Username: Tom_in_md Post Number: 116 Registered: 02-2003 |
So, you have a rotoflex in the rear? Small cracks are the beginning of the end. When you start to see threads hanging out of the coupler, that's the end. You can change the u-joint on the forward end of the rear shaft. Are you lifted? I upgraded to a GBR shaft in the rear, with u-joints on both ends, because I was going through rubber couplings often. I've got OME HD. | ||
| Matt Anderson (Disco01) Member Username: Disco01 Post Number: 49 Registered: 10-2003 |
Thanks guys. I don't have a lift and I honestly have not decided whether or not I am going to get one. I am guessing the u-joint is ok, but I have not heard of the rubber coupler going bad in D2s--I know it was an issue on some pre 1997 D1s. Regardless, I took the coupler off and cleaned the mounting points on the rear part of the shaft and the rear diff, then I put it back together and torqued all the bolts to 80 ft/lbs. The vibe is much better, so I doubt there is any issue with the joint and could be the coupling. Any place besides the dealer and roverconnection where i can get the coupler? Thanks | ||
| Mike M (Rangeroverhp) Member Username: Rangeroverhp Post Number: 70 Registered: 09-2003 |
Those flex discs go bad all the time in DI and DII. With or without a lift. More when you have a lift. I sent you an email. | ||
| Tom Fioretti (Tom_in_md) Member Username: Tom_in_md Post Number: 117 Registered: 02-2003 |
Call Nathan at Discount British Parts (formerly Discount Rovers) 502-876-8377. D1 roto is $69.95. I didn't see the D2 roto listed but I'm positive he carries it. | ||
| thom mathie (Muskyman) Senior Member Username: Muskyman Post Number: 434 Registered: 11-2002 |
the roto-flex couplers go bad because they are suposed to. they keep other things in the driveline from going bad by absorbing the shock loads that get transmitted thru the driveline. one reason they start to go bad one after another is because lots of people are to lazy to replace the pilot bushing that is in the end of the rear driveshaft. the rear centering pin rides in this bushing and keeps the pinion flange and shaft aligned. once the bushing goes bad the misalignment will do in the roto-flex coupler in short order. the reason lifts do them in is it creates a angle at that junction that wears out the bushing. the pilot bushings can be a real bitch to extract . there really isnt much of a edge inside to get a puller to grab onto. I have had a couple pop right out using the old grease and plunger method but have also had to resort to cutting a slot into one side with a diegrinder or dremel tool then it will fall right out. MM |
