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Andy Hager (Ahager)
New Member Username: Ahager
Post Number: 8 Registered: 08-2003
| Posted on Monday, December 01, 2003 - 12:44 pm: |
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So I am ready to order my brake pads and I get a rather gloomy talkin-to from the parts guy about how I should be replacing my discs at the same as a matter of course. I have inspected my discs and the do not have a lot of visible wear - that is, no grooves, edges and so forth. The truck has 53K miles and I was hoping to get 80 to 100K out of a set of discs. I know this is a heavy vehicle, but, everything I've seen thus far also tells me that it is overbuilt a little too. Is this a good sales job, or, should I NOT expect more than 50K out of a set of discs? BTW - this vehicle has had no off-road and a 50/50 mix of city and highway driving. Thanks in advance! |
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Lewis Jones (Cutter)
Member Username: Cutter
Post Number: 143 Registered: 10-2003
| Posted on Monday, December 01, 2003 - 01:34 pm: |
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just replace the pads. If your worried you could mic the disc and see how much thinner they are from new stock, but if the disc look good just replace the pads. |
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Clif Ashley (Cta586)
Senior Member Username: Cta586
Post Number: 410 Registered: 04-2002
| Posted on Monday, December 01, 2003 - 07:52 pm: |
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The reason that the parts guys is suggesting that you replace your rotors at the same time as your pads is an issue of brake noise. Even with no noticable wear, there are small grooves and inconsistencies (sp) that have naturally occured through your 53k. Those are what help to create the squeak. At that mileage rotors are often turned, or cut, to produce a new smooth surface to match the pad to. This is not always the case, brake noise is very hit or miss. Hope that helps. |
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Lewis Jones (Cutter)
Member Username: Cutter
Post Number: 147 Registered: 10-2003
| Posted on Monday, December 01, 2003 - 08:03 pm: |
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good point Clif, but the guy told him to replace them and not turn 'em. |
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Andy Hager (Ahager)
New Member Username: Ahager
Post Number: 9 Registered: 08-2003
| Posted on Monday, December 01, 2003 - 09:22 pm: |
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Actually, the guy told me that Land Rover recommends against turning the discs - that they are not designed for turning - that they "can't" be turned. BUT, I appreciate the counsel - my gut feeling was to replace the pads and see what happens - I appreciate the confidence boost. Seems the wost that will happen is a little noise and maybe the pads won't last as long. Then, I'll do the disc replacement with kevlar pads .... ! Go Heels!! |
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Bruce Potier (Brucep)
Member Username: Brucep
Post Number: 97 Registered: 06-2003
| Posted on Wednesday, December 03, 2003 - 11:01 pm: |
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Just because he is behind a parts counter does not mean his head is not usually up his ass. 53K miles, get new pads, use some pad goo to minimize squeal. This parts guy is a parasite. |
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Stuart Scantlebury (Paavscan)
New Member Username: Paavscan
Post Number: 18 Registered: 07-2003
| Posted on Thursday, December 04, 2003 - 12:43 am: |
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I'm on my second set of pads on the rear, the front rotors were changed because they were below the min thicknes. Now the shop say that the rear are below min thicknes but are good till the pads are done. I have 98k KM on the original rear rotors. Only one side began to squeal after 25k km. I just took a grinder to the raised outer edge of the disk the area that the pad does not touch and removed any loose materal from the edge, that was 3 months ago no more noise.
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David Huddleson (Dhuddleson)
New Member Username: Dhuddleson
Post Number: 6 Registered: 09-2003
| Posted on Thursday, December 04, 2003 - 07:45 pm: |
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Have you actually had the rear rotors measured for thickness with a micrometer??? Repair manual suggests wear limit is 12mm, and to replace below that... I just replaced the rear rotors on my 98 D1. I have 112K kms (about 70K miles) on my vehicle. At the 96K major service (60K miles), the front and rear pads were replaced due to wear. Rotors were fine, and no machining done on them. Last May, an oil change and full inspection was performed, and I was told that rear rotors were down below 12mm limit, and some discoloration might be indicating localized overheating. However, I was not pressured to do anything immediately... In September I bought rear rotors and hub seals, and replaced them one weekend at home. The pads were fine, so were inspected, "dressed" (filed) to be smooth and flat, and replaced! All is working great! The old rotors looked fine, but were down to 11.4mm. Some folks might go until something drastic happened, but I felt it was time. Let us know how things proceed... |