| Author | Message | ||
     Peter Sharratt (Gummikuh) Senior Member Username: Gummikuh Post Number: 259 Registered: 02-2003 |
Hi I am keen to mount at least one more power/cigarette lighter socket in the dash, but I cannot find a really suitable place. Has anyone done this? Where did you put them. Many thanks Pete | ||
| Matt Anderson (Disco01) Member Username: Disco01 Post Number: 62 Registered: 10-2003 |
Pete, why not just get one of those dual sockets you can plug into the lighter? I guess that could blow a fuse if overloaded. If you dont have a sunroof I would put one where the swithces would be....might even find power wires to splice into up there. | ||
| Christian Kiely (Redrover47) New Member Username: Redrover47 Post Number: 29 Registered: 09-2003 |
I don't know if this is true on a D1, but on a D2, the socket is pretty deep, and some adpaters will not reach far enough into the socket to receive power. Also on the D2's the extra cup holders get in the way of many adapters. I just bought an accessory outlet extension wire and routed it from the rear outlet under the seats to the front, so I have power for both my cell phone and radar detector. Again, this is all on a D2 and I don't know if DIs have the rear outlet. | ||
| Jaime Crusellas (Jaime) Member Username: Jaime Post Number: 172 Registered: 05-2003 |
Radi shack has a several different solutions for multiple gigar lighter outlets. I bought a triple one that can either be plugged into the existing cigar lighter, or directly to a hot lead. It comes with its own fuse. You can then mount the triple adapter in any suitable place. When offroading, I run a CB, GPS, and mp3 player, so I need all 3 | ||
| Jamil Abbasy (Jamooche) Member Username: Jamooche Post Number: 189 Registered: 05-2003 |
I have a Radio Shack unit. Here's a pic of how I mounted it: http://www.pbase.com/image/20254344 Jamil | ||
| Peter Sharratt (Gummikuh) Senior Member Username: Gummikuh Post Number: 260 Registered: 02-2003 |
Hi Thanks The only problem I have is my truck is a two door and the front seats tilt forward, I don`t have a lot of room between the side of the transmission tunnel and the seat. But the multi type plug might squeeze in there, I will have to measure one and see. I really want it fixed down and not floating around all over the place. Pete | ||
| Jamil Abbasy (Jamooche) Member Username: Jamooche Post Number: 190 Registered: 05-2003 |
I have seen the same model as mine mounted down under the curry hook as well. Jamil | ||
| Todd Phenneger (Toddp) Member Username: Toddp Post Number: 155 Registered: 10-2002 |
I'm planning on Hard wiring mine into the rear of the Center Armrest/Console. The ash tray back there is just about the right size to replace with a 3-receptacle unit. Just havent figured out How I'll mount it in there yet. But when I had my carpeting out running power and speaker wire to the rear of the car I also ran power and ground to that area so I could add it later. Additonally I have an outlet in the trunk area that I ran off the dist block and 4-ga power cable that I run my Stereo amp off of. ITs mounded next to the rear passenger side (US SPEC) seatabelt real. Got it from West Marine, its a weather resistant model that has the ability to take a Locking receptacle that does a 1/4 turn to lock in place like a Bayonet base lightbulb. Looks very stock to with the cover in place. Good luck Todd (I'll post pics of this and my rear SUB/Storage box that I built in back as soon as possible. l8r Todd | ||
| Riley Troy (Freeplay) New Member Username: Freeplay Post Number: 7 Registered: 11-2003 |
Maybe put it in the glovebox or something??? I don't personally like the look of wires hanging about the cabin like that, so make it as discrete as possible. I like to hardwire things in for a cleaner look. | ||
| Peter Sharratt (Gummikuh) Senior Member Username: Gummikuh Post Number: 261 Registered: 02-2003 |
Hi Todd The rear sockets would be a good idea for anything powered in the rear, but I want to mount my ipaq and 2 cellphones where I can see them, I was hoping to avoid loads of curly leads every where, and I can`t hardwire as some one will remove them from my vehicle for me. I think Jamils is the way to go. Thanks for all your help. Pete | ||
| carl seashore (Drcarl) Member Username: Drcarl Post Number: 57 Registered: 07-2003 |
peter, you can also buy sockets that will mount flush anywhere on the console. these need to be hard wired with separate fuses. the forward part of the center console (passenger side) and inside the cubby are both good places. same applies to the rear cargo area. this gives a very minimalist look, and all wires are hidden. cheers, carl | ||
| Chris Browne (Chris_browne) Senior Member Username: Chris_browne Post Number: 467 Registered: 02-2003 |
theres some space for outlets on the cross over from the upper part of the dash to the lower sections. Suggest you drop the lower sections for a look see | ||
| Victor Biro (Vabiro) New Member Username: Vabiro Post Number: 34 Registered: 10-2003 |
Peter, I found a 3 plug adaptor that plugs into the existing lighter. It has a sliding bracket, which amounts to a flat piece of plastic, that mounts on the dash. With this I can remove the extra plugs when I'm not off-road. I found this one at an Ham Radio supply store. It was much more robust that the stuff I was finding at the auto supply places. As for mounting places, I put it on the side of my console, between it and the glove box. The wire slips between the dash and the console, and the excess wire tucks up and underneath the heating ducts. This arangement is powering my iPaq, laptop and cell phone. Victor | ||
| Jamie (Rover_puppy) Senior Member Username: Rover_puppy Post Number: 447 Registered: 05-2003 |
Please don't faint, I've got 11 of them in my truck. 1) I have the 3 plug adapter that plugs into the existing lighter like Victor just mention. This works only when key is in ignition (no pic of this). 2) I have a strip of 3 mounted on the passenger side of the center console. These 3 are hardwired into an additional switch plate/wiring system that is separate from the rest of my stock electrical system. These work without key in the ignition as long the switch contolling this section of plugs is on. These power my GPS equipment. I can run a max of 30 amps total thru the 3 plugs. (I have learned to carry spare fuses and a fork to pop the panel under the front passenger dash for when I need to replace fuses. This does not happen often, only when I am an idiot and do something dumb). Look past the open glove box in this pic and you can see where the 3 plug is mounted (it is behind the passenger cup holder).   3) I still have the "stock" plug that is in the cargo area on the drivers side (no pic). 4) I have installed a dedicated marine plug in the cargo area directly behind the passenger side rear seat. It is for my frig and runs directly to the battery, no switches necessary. If the frig DC plug is in, it's got power. (I keep the DC plug and the regular wall plug cords in the base of my frig at all times, I tie them up on the dog guard where they are easily accessable - that way it is simple to switch power sources and run orange outdoor extension cord to truck in case I need to cool frig and am not around to check battery power)  5) The last 3 plugs are located at the opening of the rear cargo door on the drivers side. This strip of 3 plugs is also hardwired through switch panel to use without key in ignition. You can see the top outlet above my flashlight (there are 2 more below it that are not visible in the pic). In one of the plugs I put a $14 DC voltage meter that gives a readout of battery power and I force myself to monitor it when I am working behind my truck (knowing me, I would do something DUMB and drain battery). I carry a 2 mil spotlight on a marine cord that I plug into this strip when I use it (I prefer the plug in kind b/c it is lighter weight). Again, I can run a max of 30 amps total thru all 3 plugs in the strip. (I can't get the pics of this to upload, sorry - I'll try again after posting this) The latest thing I have plugged into the cargo area strip is an ARB light that uses less than 1 am, stays cool, and brightens up the entire cargo area at night without shadows. I tied the light to the dog guard.  This is the switch panel (which is located under the front drivers side dash) that I have the wiring for the extra plugs running to.   Remember to carry spare fuses for everything in case you break stuff like I do  I purchased everything used for all of these at Radio Shack and Boaters World. By shopping sales, total of all parts was less than $100. It takes more time than anything else to do this stuff. I know it looks absolutely totally goofy, but it works for me. Good Luck, Jamie | ||
| Jamie (Rover_puppy) Senior Member Username: Rover_puppy Post Number: 448 Registered: 05-2003 |
Here is the only pic that I can get to upload. It (sort of) shows the location of the 3 plug strip that is at the rear cargo door on drivers side. It is the same as the one I have on the passenger side of front center console (made by radio shack). It is mounted to the left of my power tank. The top plug is just visible above my maglite (the other 2 are hidden in pic behind the maglite). The thing velcroed with aircraft grade velcro to the left of the plug (nearer to the door) is the plug in DC voltage meter that monitors battery power. I ordered it from bass pro shops - it always shows a red readout light b/c it is actually for a 24V battery. I ignore that light and just pay attention to the LED digital readout that gives correct reading of battery power.  | ||
| Jamie (Rover_puppy) Senior Member Username: Rover_puppy Post Number: 449 Registered: 05-2003 |
Extra word of caution in case you do something like I have. When you overload something, it will blow the fuse in the 3 way plug and probably all the fuses for the equipment that is running off of it. So be sure to carry spare fuses with you. For example, my ARB adventure light malfunctioned and the fuse for the 3 way plug blew to protect everything else. When this happened, the fuse for the 12V DC plug on my GPS also blew. Thankfully, I this happened the first time in my driveway which gave me several hours to isolate the problem, take everything apart, FIND the fuses in each line, replace them, and put everything back together again. When I finished fixing it, I looked up all the size fuses that my equipment uses and bought every size to carry onboard (I store them all in a pelican micro case because I have great talent for dropping things in water). The last time it happened, I was on the trail. It took me only 10 minutes to pop everything open and replace the fuses, and I was on my way again. I don't mean to make this sound like blowing fuses is a regular occurance. It has only happened twice and both times it was my fault. Everything in my truck was installed with as clean a look as I could while still keeping the cords and wires where I can access them (for when I break stuff).    | ||
| Jamie (Rover_puppy) Senior Member Username: Rover_puppy Post Number: 452 Registered: 05-2003 |
I tried to take a few more pics to show how the radio shack 3 way plugs are mounted in my truck. It was dark outside, so I hope you can see them ok. I have moved the 3 way on the passenger side of front console 3 times. It took me awhile of actually using it to figure out where it would be most out of my way (and which plugs should go where). There isn't much under the plastic where I attached it - I stuck my hand up it each time before I drilled holes in it to make sure (I made sure final placement covered all the other drill holes). Please excuse the mess I have made up front whenever I have removed the black cardboard-like passenger side front panel (I use a salad fork to get it off which makes a mess - but, you can't see it unless you look under it).   Here are pics that show the rear 3 way plug. Again, please excuse the mess - it's not really as bad as it looks. I have to keep everything tied down back there and that can sometimes be a challenge when I also need to keep it all quickly accessable.   Hope the closer pics help. |
