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DiscoWeb Bulletin Board » Message Archives » 2003 Archives - Discovery Technical » Archive through December 09, 2003 » ALTERNATOR NOT CHARGING « Previous Next »

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james (Check38)
New Member
Username: Check38

Post Number: 1
Registered: 10-2003
Posted on Friday, December 05, 2003 - 08:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Dash lights were flickering and radio was cutting on and off. Got a new battery and replaced the alternator. About 5 days later, the problemcame back. Took it to the shop and they say the alternator is not charging the battery. Any ideas?
 

Robert Sublett (Rubisco98)
Senior Member
Username: Rubisco98

Post Number: 1085
Registered: 04-2002
Posted on Friday, December 05, 2003 - 08:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Bad ground somewhere possibly, or possibly a bad alternator if you got a rebuilt.. don't trust the rebuilt alternators if you ask me. Just my .02, Good luck
 

james (Check38)
New Member
Username: Check38

Post Number: 2
Registered: 10-2003
Posted on Friday, December 05, 2003 - 08:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I bought 2 of em' and neither are recharging. I also checked the wires from the starter, battery, and alternator per will tillery and they were all clean. I did hear that because I have an aftermarket radio and sub amp, that could be causing a possible drain. I'm having that checked as a possibility
 

Riley Troy (Freeplay)
New Member
Username: Freeplay

Post Number: 9
Registered: 11-2003
Posted on Friday, December 05, 2003 - 07:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Can you turn your radio on when the car is off? Is the remote lead connected to your amp from the back of your deck (usually a blue wire.) That's about the only way your stereo setup could be draining any of your battery. The only thing the constant power does going to your radio is keeps the time and the radio presets. It only draws about 200mA when the car is off.
 

Joe Still (Joedisco)
Member
Username: Joedisco

Post Number: 104
Registered: 09-2002
Posted on Saturday, December 06, 2003 - 06:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I think you're still in the market for an alternator. Many people have been thru several. Took me three rebuilds to fix it. Some say pony up the big$ for new LR original.
 

Joe Still (Joedisco)
Member
Username: Joedisco

Post Number: 105
Registered: 09-2002
Posted on Saturday, December 06, 2003 - 06:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Forgot to mention, when going thru my charging saga I discovered that a burned out dash indicator light will disrupt the charging circuit.
 

james (Check38)
New Member
Username: Check38

Post Number: 4
Registered: 10-2003
Posted on Sunday, December 07, 2003 - 02:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I'm going to take it to an electrical specialist. All my dash indicator lights work fine. That is simply ridiculous for reman. alternators to be that unreliable. People have nothing but bad things to say about Lucas. I can see why!!!!!!!!!
 

Bazzle (Bazzle)
Member
Username: Bazzle

Post Number: 53
Registered: 09-2003
Posted on Sunday, December 07, 2003 - 08:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

check charge voltage.
After a few minutes at fast idle should be about 14volts

Bazzle
 

Will Tillery (Will)
Member
Username: Will

Post Number: 198
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Sunday, December 07, 2003 - 09:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

if you experience intermittent electrical problems which result in Premature Dead Batteries, No Start and No Charge conditions check the following.


Ground Connections to Inspect

Symptom Connector Number to Inspect Location of Connection
Dead Battery/No Charge EI 0-0 Top of right shock tower bracket
Dead Battery/No Charge EI 81 Behind the battery at the horn bracket
Dead Battery/No Charge E500 On the accessory bracket, behind the tensioner pulley
Dead Battery/No Charge EI09 On the inside of the right frame rail, below the battery
No Start EI 04 On the right frame rail inside the wheel well, behind the body mount
No Start/Starter solenoid relay E205, E220 At the right foot well, behind the trim panel

If any are corroded the following steps should be taken to correct the problem:

Any corroded connections should be disconnected and tightened to 6 to 7 Nm. (50-60 lb.In.) (If the surface where the eyelet contacts the vehicle is painted, place a star washer between the painted surface and the eyelet.)
After tightening the connectors they should be cleaned with dielectric grease.
 

james (Check38)
New Member
Username: Check38

Post Number: 5
Registered: 10-2003
Posted on Sunday, December 07, 2003 - 09:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Thanks Will. I should know something by tomorrow, and I'll post my results.

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