D2 Serp. Belt Replacement - A couple... Log Out | Topics | Search
Moderators | Register | Edit Profile

DiscoWeb Bulletin Board » Message Archives » 2003 Archives - Discovery Technical » Archive through December 29, 2003 » D2 Serp. Belt Replacement - A couple of questions « Previous Next »

Author Message
 

Jack Parker (Jack)
Member
Username: Jack

Post Number: 250
Registered: 03-2002
Posted on Tuesday, December 09, 2003 - 11:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Preparing to replace the serpentine belt AKA "Auxiliary Drive Belt" on my D2.

1. Shop manual says to remove viscous fan - is this necessary, or can the belt be installed with the fan in place?

2. Anyone know offhand what size wrenches are needed to remove the fan (shop manual references two Land Rover tools and part numbers only) in removing?

No ACE on this D2, and I know the tensioner pulley requires a 15mm wrench.

Thanks in advance, I only took a quick look under the hood tonight - it may be very obvious when I remove the shroud tomorrow. On other vehicles, I have done this w/o removing the fan.


Thanks,

Jack Parker
'01 D2
 

Mike (Mikem)
Member
Username: Mikem

Post Number: 65
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Wednesday, December 10, 2003 - 01:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I changed the belt on my 99 D2 without removing anything.

Mike
 

andy coleman (Andy0826)
New Member
Username: Andy0826

Post Number: 13
Registered: 11-2003
Posted on Wednesday, December 10, 2003 - 02:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I would get a strap wrench handy. I used it to get the belt around the tensioner pulley. Otherwise, the land rover manual says to use a special tool.
 

Craig McLaughlin (Cmclaugh)
Member
Username: Cmclaugh

Post Number: 57
Registered: 06-2002
Posted on Wednesday, December 10, 2003 - 02:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

No need to remove the fan. Unclip the top part of the radiator fan shroud and carefully remove the radiator hose that is squeezed into the notches on the top. If you lift the shroud up to high with the hose still attached you can break the plastic "Tee" fitting in front of the altenator. Don't ask how I know this.

If you have a shop manual with a picture of how the belt routes around all of the various accessories you'll need it. If not quickly sketch one out on a piece of paper you'll thank yourself later.

Take the 15mm and use the box end on the center bolt of the tensioner pully. You are using the wrench only as a lever to slacken the tension on the belt so you can remove it. Pull it towards the center of the engine to free the belt.

Work the belt off of each of the accessories and then around the fan blades. With the shroud off you'll have enough space to work.

Now would be a good time to replace the plastic idler pulleys with the upgraded steel ones unless of course this was already done under warranty or by a previous owner. Mine wasn't and the vehicle was out of warranty so I had to do it.

I usually take a little extra time with a piece of medium course sand paper and clean the vee's of each pulley and rough up the idler pulleys to remove any glazing. Just enough to help prevent the belt from slipping on cold mornings or when it gets too hot.

Work the new belt over the fan blades and back onto each accessory using your shop manual or picture as a reference. Tension on the tensior pulley will be a little more now that it has been released all the way. I usually have a buddy position the belt while I work with the tensioner. It can be done on your own however.

Once the belt is on plop the shroud back into position and clip it in. Check and make sure there are no water leaks at the hose ends you put stress on and your good to go.

 

Lewis Jones (Cutter)
Member
Username: Cutter

Post Number: 202
Registered: 10-2003
Posted on Wednesday, December 10, 2003 - 11:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Graig, great write up! I was looking under the hod last week and the belt had some checking so I gt another and will replace this weekend (and keep the one for a spare) Your write up was right on time! Thanks,
Lewis
 

Dean Brown (Deanbrown3d)
Senior Member
Username: Deanbrown3d

Post Number: 1118
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Thursday, December 11, 2003 - 06:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

This should be copied into the technical section! Great descrption.
 

Jack Parker (Jack)
Senior Member
Username: Jack

Post Number: 251
Registered: 03-2002
Posted on Thursday, December 11, 2003 - 03:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Thanks all and especially Craig.

The shop manual that I have (Bentley Publications) says to remove the viscous fan. Just looking quickly under the hood the other night, I couldn’t find any particular reason to remove the fan – it looked like the belt could be slipped between the fan and the lower shroud. So…I thought I’d ask just in case.

Idler pulley was replaced under warranty (twice so far), but good information for those who have not replaced them.

Finally one last safety precaution – it’s always a good idea to disconnect the battery before working near the fan, since it could come on at anytime, especially if the vehicle has been recently driven.




 

Phil deGuzman (Powerslide)
New Member
Username: Powerslide

Post Number: 9
Registered: 12-2003
Posted on Thursday, December 11, 2003 - 03:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Jack,

Great that you mentioned to check/replace the idler pulley at this time. I also replaced mine on my DiscoII 2x (by the dealer - free) and now I believe I have the updated version.
My serpentine belt cost $49 and I feel better that I replaced it at 48K miles because it showed a lot of crazing and cracking. You don't want this to break when you're out wheeling.
 

Craig McLaughlin (Cmclaugh)
Member
Username: Cmclaugh

Post Number: 58
Registered: 06-2002
Posted on Thursday, December 11, 2003 - 05:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I almost fogot to mention. You can remove the small plastic shroud that covers the A/C and ACE pump (if equipped) for more access. There are two very long (head size 10mm) bolts and spacers holding it on. If I remember correctly there is a slight difference in length between either the bolts or the spacers, I can't be certain. Anyway, just make sure you put everything back in the right spot and gently snug them down. Tighten the bolts too much and you'll crack the shroud.
 

Jack Parker (Jack)
Senior Member
Username: Jack

Post Number: 254
Registered: 03-2002
Posted on Thursday, December 11, 2003 - 07:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Craig,

Is the tip:
..."Tighten the bolts too much and you'll crack the shroud."

learned in a similar manner to:
..."If you lift the shroud up to high with the hose still attached you can break the plastic "Tee" fitting in front of the altenator."
:-)
 

Craig McLaughlin (Cmclaugh)
Member
Username: Cmclaugh

Post Number: 59
Registered: 06-2002
Posted on Friday, December 12, 2003 - 01:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I've made myself out to be a real destroyer of vehicles haven't I. Actually no, that one was based on common sense. Believe it or not I'm pretty inclined mechanically. Although, there are things from time to time that will catch you off guard. I am told those are the things that keep dealer service departments in business.
 

Jack Parker (Jack)
Senior Member
Username: Jack

Post Number: 256
Registered: 03-2002
Posted on Friday, December 12, 2003 - 11:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

...those are the things that keep dealer service departments in business.'

Like charging the customer labor to remove the fan, when it isn't necessary.LOL.

Replaced belt today, around 30 minutes w/o removing the fan, cleaned battery terminals too. I removed the bottom shroud which helped in routing the belt on the bottom. I just installed a TJM bull bar, which is great but at 5'10" I have to climb on the thing now to reach some stuff in the engine bay.
 

Lewis Jones (Cutter)
Member
Username: Cutter

Post Number: 222
Registered: 10-2003
Posted on Friday, December 12, 2003 - 11:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Threads like this are why this BB Rocks!!!
Great info guys!
Thanks!
Lewis
 

Praveen K (Praveenk22)
New Member
Username: Praveenk22

Post Number: 30
Registered: 05-2003
Posted on Saturday, December 20, 2003 - 07:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Craig the write up's fantastic!! This definitely needs to go into the tech section. I'm pretty much a newbie and just replaced the serpentine on my '99 D1. Removed it without any problems. But putting it back on I had a tough time with the tensioner. Got a sepertine belt removal/install tool from Advance auto parts which is nothing but a longer wrench which gives to more turning force. Used this and I had the new belt in seconds. Actual time to get the job done 30 mins.
 

Jack Parker (Jack)
Senior Member
Username: Jack

Post Number: 263
Registered: 03-2002
Posted on Saturday, December 20, 2003 - 09:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post


quote:

But putting it back on I had a tough time with the tensioner. Got a sepertine belt removal/install tool from Advance auto parts which is nothing but a longer wrench which gives to more turning force.




Which is why this http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/pro_det.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=4419&group_ID=5 16&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog is worth buying - this wrench is plenty long enough, and with the Flank Drive design gives more than enough torque to move the tensioner pulley.

OK - John Lee and Koby feel free to join in here:-)
 

Praveen K (Praveenk22)
New Member
Username: Praveenk22

Post Number: 33
Registered: 05-2003
Posted on Saturday, December 27, 2003 - 12:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I replaced the serpentine belt a week ago and now I hear a funny "ching ching" noise when the motor is idle? Anybody know what this noise is? Or what could have gone wrong with the belt install?

Thanks - PGK
 

Gerardo Garza (Gerry) (Mapmaker97)
New Member
Username: Mapmaker97

Post Number: 32
Registered: 06-2003
Posted on Saturday, December 27, 2003 - 12:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Craig,

Is your upgraded idler pulley all steel or partial?

I had mine replaced, under warranty, about 3 months ago, but I noticed that just the center-section was steel and the rest was still plastic. Is yours all steel?

My new pulley did eliminate the loud scratchy engine racket that was coming from the passenger side. I'm still curious, because I wanted to know if LR Dallas replaced the pulley with the same POS as before.

Gerry

Topics | Last Day | Last Week | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions | Program Credits Administration