Author |
Message |
   
Nick B
| Posted on Friday, May 10, 2002 - 08:39 pm: |
|
I decided it was about time to change the ball joints and steering arm joint on my 95 RRC.... needless to say the tie rods came off the car easily but the ball joints did not come off of the rods as easily. I got two of the ball joints off and had two remaing, so i figured i would cut my loses and cut order new heavy duty tie rods w/ steering stablizer relocation kit from rovertym. however soon after i placed the order i ended up getting all the ball joints off. are the heavy duty rods worth it or should i just stick w/ the stock tie rods? I'm a newbie to the off road world, so if it is worth while upgrade id rather due it now then later. my other concern was i had to use a torch to head up the rods to and BFH to coax them off. how easily would that steel lose its temper? thanks in advance. any hints or advice is welcome. Nick B |
   
Randall Smith
| Posted on Saturday, May 11, 2002 - 11:06 pm: |
|
This is probably the most vulnerable part of the truck, and also the diff housings. If you plan to actually do some off-roading then you may as well get the HD rods. You an keep the old ones just in case the RT HD are damaged. Or someone else may need the old ones if theirs are damaged. Randall |
   
Bill Bettridge (Billb)
| Posted on Monday, May 13, 2002 - 10:06 am: |
|
Nick - definitely keep the RTE rods - you cannot go wrong there - and as posted above - the stock item may help someone else out on the trail one day - I normally carry a stock trailing arm, track rod and drag link in case someone else needs it. BTW - you'll need an EXTRA LH thread tie rod end to install the RTE track rod as the stock rod doesn't use a LH threaded one. Bill |
   
hendrik
| Posted on Monday, May 13, 2002 - 10:56 am: |
|
To loosen the ball joints in the rods, you might try to place the rod on something sturdy (workbench) and hit it with a hammer where the ball joint is screwed in. While doing so turn the rod around so that it is hit from all sides. It might take a few minutes but they all come off. Damage to the rod is less than you might imagine. regards, hendrik |
|