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Joshua Smith (98hoo)
New Member
Username: 98hoo

Post Number: 39
Registered: 09-2002
Posted on Monday, December 15, 2003 - 04:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

A couple months ago I started a thread because I thought my detroit was stuck. The consencus on the board was that my CDL was stuck. I disconnected the linkage this weekend and disengaged the CDL using a 13mm wrench, but the CDL did not unlock. I tested by jacking up one front wheel, putting the truck in neutral and trying to spin the one wheel. The wheel would not spin - while lying under the truck, I could see that while turning the front wheel, the rear drive shaft turned as well. So, now I need to find out if there is a way to replace the CDL component of the transfer case, if the whole thing has to go, or if there are any other cures. Thanks for any help.
 

Joey (Joey4420)
Senior Member
Username: Joey4420

Post Number: 477
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Monday, December 15, 2003 - 05:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

It probably the CDL selonoid:

SHIFTLOCK SOLENOID/NEUTRAL SWITCH
Service repair no - 41.10.63/64
This is sited on top of the transfer gearbox. Access to
the component is gained through the transmission
tunnel aperture.
Remove
1. Disconnect battery negative lead.
2. Remove centre console. See CHASSIS AND
BODY, Repair, Centre Console
3. Remove rear passenger heater air ducts.
4. Remove insulation pad.
5. Remove four screws and remove main gear
lever assembly.
6. Drill out rivets and remove tunnel blanking plate.
7. Disconnect solenoid multiplug.
8. Remove four retaining bolts and remove shiftlock
solenoid cover.
9. Remove solenoid and spring washer.
10. Clean joint sealant from mating faces.
KEY
1. Gearlever
2. Transmission tunnel aperture
3. Transfer gearbox
4. Bolt
5. Switch
6. Solenoid
7. Electrical connections
Refit
1. Apply Hylosil or equivalent sealant to mating
faces.
2. Ensure solenoid plug lead is located in cover
recess.
3. Reverse removal procedure.
4. Fit four solenoid bolts. Tighten to 9Nm.
Neutral switch, audible alarm
1. Disconnect neutral switch electrical plug.
2. Remove neutral switch from transfer box.
Refit
3. Apply Hylomar PL32/L20 or SL500 sealant to
neutral switch.
4. Reverse removal procedure.
5. Switch - Tighten to 25Nm.
 

Will Cupp (W_cupp)
Member
Username: W_cupp

Post Number: 208
Registered: 07-2003
Posted on Monday, December 15, 2003 - 08:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

"It probably the CDL selonoid"

If he disconnected the linkage then he would not have to do this, if I read it right. It sounds like he took the linkage off the transfer case its self, and use a 13mm wrench to turn the diff lock key.

1st- did you turn it counter clock wise? I think that is the way to go to unlock the case.

2nd- "while lying under the truck, I could see that while turning the front wheel, the rear drive shaft turned as well."
Not sure what you mean here. If the rear wheels were planted, how did the rear drive shaft turn? Go find a steep hill, and with out pushing on the brake, have someone watch the passanger side to see if both the front and rear wheels are turning while you watch the drivers side. If they are, try going the other way with the 13mm wrench, and turn it clock wise.

There are other ways to tell if it is stuck in 4wd, but this is the idiot prof test.
 

Craig Kobayashi (Koby)
Dweb Lounge Member
Username: Koby

Post Number: 754
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Monday, December 15, 2003 - 08:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I'd like to know what else Josh did after disconnecting the linkage from the CDL fitting on the t-case. I'm afraid that simply disconnecting the linkage may not have been enough in his case.

His 13mm wrench would have unscrewed the nut that fastens the shifter linkage to the CDL nipple, but he would have needed a 10mm wrench to further turn the nipple in order to disenage the CDL.

Even this may not be enough to disengage the lock because as many of you with CDL can attest, sometimes it takes a little forward and backward rolling with some occasional e-brake action to release the wind-up in the center diff enough to disengage the CDL.
 

Kenny Bissett (Jetson)
Member
Username: Jetson

Post Number: 92
Registered: 07-2003
Posted on Tuesday, December 16, 2003 - 08:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I've got the "poor man's" lever on my D2 (a metal rod and lever under the passenger). Many times I've had to roll back and forth as Craig stated above in order to disengage. And it is 10mm.

Kenny
 

Joshua Smith (98hoo)
New Member
Username: 98hoo

Post Number: 40
Registered: 09-2002
Posted on Tuesday, December 16, 2003 - 10:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I was able to use the 13 mm to move the whole linkage, not just loosen the nut. I could engage it and the light would come on in the truck. When I turned it counter-clockwise the whole linkage moved, I could feel a "click", and the light would go off in the truck. I drove it forward and reverse, straight and in circles. As far as turning the front wheel and seeing the rear drive shaft move, there is enough play in the system that while turning the front wheel about an eighth of a turn, I could lie under the truck and see the rear drive shaft rotating back and forth a bit. How would I go about trying some of the "e-brake action?" I would definately like to avoid trying the solenoid replacement if at all possible.
 

Craig Kobayashi (Koby)
Dweb Lounge Member
Username: Koby

Post Number: 757
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Tuesday, December 16, 2003 - 10:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I think the solenoid Joey refers to is the "Shift Interlock Solenoid" and I believe this prevents the shifting of the transfer case from high to low. In all the drawings and linkages I've seen I have yet to see a solenoid that prevents difflock.

The click you feel is the detent in the CDL mechanism. It is probable that if you are able to freely move the CDL nipple on the t-case with an audible and palpable click that you are indeed locking and unlocking the difflock.

By referring to "e-brake action" I'm referring to a trick that some people (myself included) used to release the tension in the center diff that prevents the difflock from unlocking. All you do is move the shift lever to unlock, then slowly roll the truck backwards either in reverse or in neutral, and engage the e-brake.

For me if the CDL won't disengage the first time, this trick usually works. Understandably this is hard to do while outside the truck.
 

Joshua Smith (98hoo)
Member
Username: 98hoo

Post Number: 41
Registered: 09-2002
Posted on Tuesday, December 16, 2003 - 11:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I will try this this evening. The truck has no problem shifting from high to low, so it sounds like the solenoid may not be the issue. Thank you all for your help. I will give an update in the morning.
 

Joshua Smith (98hoo)
Member
Username: 98hoo

Post Number: 42
Registered: 09-2002
Posted on Wednesday, December 17, 2003 - 09:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I tried the emergency brake thing several times last evening to no avail. I got the truck rolling in reverse and pulled up the e-brake. Could here the clunk in the t-case, but it didn't unlock. I tried it at different speeds - rolling forward and reverse. I am still able to shift from high to low with no problems, but I cannot get the CDL to unlock. I did notice while under the truck that as I turn the CDL contol counterclockwise under the truck that there is the click where I believe it is unlocked, but I can turn the thing further and there is a second click. I tried the whole process with it turned to that position as well with no luck. Any other suggestions? I hate taking this thing to the shop. Thanks for the help.
 

Will Cupp (W_cupp)
Member
Username: W_cupp

Post Number: 212
Registered: 07-2003
Posted on Wednesday, December 17, 2003 - 09:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Take off the drive shaft off. Either one. Put the truck in what you think is "unlock". The power should go to the path of least resistance. If the truck still moves, try going the other way with the diff lock. If it still moves then pull the transfer case out and and have it fixed or buy another one.

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