| Author | Message | ||
     Kevin Fedyk (Kovert) Member Username: Kovert Post Number: 83 Registered: 05-2003 |
Alright, when I used to have my wrangler, I had six inch spots on the bumper that I wired directly to the battery and had to remember to shut off when I got out of the car (I did use an illuminated switch). Anyway, I am going to be putting some lights on a brush bar, but I want to be able to use them no matter what stock lights come on. But I would prefer to have them only come on if the truck is on. Any ideas or has anyone else done the same thing. I looked in the archives, but found a lot of posts regarding wiring through the relays but then only being able to use the lights with low beams. | ||
| Alan Bates (Alanb) Senior Member Username: Alanb Post Number: 383 Registered: 07-2002 |
Use a relay, if you don't have one you can get a hella light relay kit or a generic one at any pep boys autozone, etc. Follow instructions given, but instead of splicing the remote hot wire to the low or high beams, find a power source that is on only when the car is on. You could splice it into an accessory slot at the fuse box that does this. | ||
| Victor Biro (Vabiro) Member Username: Vabiro Post Number: 56 Registered: 10-2003 |
Kevin, I'm about to put some Hella Rallye 4000 lamps on the front end of my truck too. I was thinking about using the accessory slot so that I wouldn't forget to turn them off, but then I had another thought: Why not hook the switch to the high beam. That way I wouldn't have to fumble for 2+ switches every time someone came over the hill towards me. All I would do is click off the Highs as I would anyway, and the Hellas would turn off. If you want to add an additional safety, you could put a relay attached to the accessory between the switch and the high beam. That way the connection between the high beam would break as soon as the ingnition was turned off. Theres also a bit in the Tech section at http://www.discoweb.org/lights just my 0.02 cheers Victor | ||
| Kevin Fedyk (Kovert) Member Username: Kovert Post Number: 84 Registered: 05-2003 |
I'm not sure I want to link these driving lights to either high or low beam. I think I want them independent of all my lights, but then again, I'm not sure of the advantage of that. But I thought, driving lights, if they are aimed properly can be used all the time. If that is the case, I would sometimes want them on just with my low beams. Hmmm... | ||
| Jamil Abbasy (Jamooche) Member Username: Jamooche Post Number: 234 Registered: 05-2003 |
Easiest way is to push the wire in with any "non-essential" fuse in the fusebox. Just take the fuse out, stick the wire in the hole and push the fuse back in. I think I chose the stereo fuse so it only comes on when the truck is started. But I only recommend this for low powerd lights, not for those super Rally 4000 type lights. These 3 were wired that way: http://www.pbase.com/image/23098368 Additionally you can also put a fuse in the wire to the lights, but I did not. Jamil | ||
| Victor Biro (Vabiro) Member Username: Vabiro Post Number: 57 Registered: 10-2003 |
Kevin, I think you might find big differences in how tollerable on-coming lights are, depending on their type, spot, fog, cornering, or driving. Fog mounted below the bumper are usually fine because all the light is right in front of the vehicle. But spot, cornering, and driving can be pretty painful. Check out the Hella Light tunnel at http://www.hella.com/produktion/HellaPortal/WebSite/Internet_en/ProductsServices /ForDriversAccessories/LightTunnel/LightTunnel.jsp cheers Victor | ||
| Kevin Fedyk (Kovert) Member Username: Kovert Post Number: 85 Registered: 05-2003 |
Well I am putting on those WiPac 100W lights, two of them on the brush bar. So I would need a decent amp fuse for them. What I might do is just wire them up temporarily straight from the battery with an inline fuse, and then when the weather gets a little warmer, do a little nicer job on them. N.VA is pretty cold the last few days. Thanks for the input guys. I now have to drill out my other rear mudflap too. The wife went through some snow and ice and ripped one off. Oh well. | ||
| carl seashore (Drcarl) Member Username: Drcarl Post Number: 78 Registered: 07-2003 |
kevin, there are three different wiring schemes in the tech section, with various switching options. definitely use a relay. the stock switch can be used so you do not clutter your dash with extra stuff. cheers, carl | ||
| Jamil Abbasy (Jamooche) Member Username: Jamooche Post Number: 235 Registered: 05-2003 |
Maybe a dumb question, but what is the purpose of a relay? Is it just for joining up the wires from multiple lights to one? Why can't I just wind them together like I have done? Jamil | ||
| Alan Bates (Alanb) Senior Member Username: Alanb Post Number: 386 Registered: 07-2002 |
I'm not an electrical engineer but the point of using relays is to use a small electrical load from a switch to turn on or complete a circuit in the relay that can handle a much larger load like when running lights. If you run the lights without a relay then the switch is having a large load going through it and problems could occur or you would have to have a switch that can handle the load. If you use a relay then the relay takes the load not the switch, the switch just sends a small current to engage the relay and complete the circuit. I'm sure someone else can explain this better than me, but hopefully you get the idea. | ||
| Victor Biro (Vabiro) Member Username: Vabiro Post Number: 58 Registered: 10-2003 |
Jamil, To build on what Alan has said, when you switch on a relay you are only controling enough power to turn on a magnet, so the switch can be very small. The magnet closes the connection between the battery and the lamps. This is the place that needs to handle the big power draw of the lights. As a result, you can have the same small switch (maybe your high beam switch) control an unlimited number of lights by increasing the size of the relay, or adding more of them. Victor | ||
| Jamil Abbasy (Jamooche) Member Username: Jamooche Post Number: 236 Registered: 05-2003 |
Thanks Alan and Victor. I finally understand what they are for. I don't think it's a big deal for the low powered lights I currently have, but later when I get some for my rack I should really take the time to do it properly. I assume then that a swtich can just blow out and stop working if the load is too high? Jamil | ||
| Randy Maynard (Rans) Senior Member Username: Rans Post Number: 707 Registered: 08-2002 |
Jamil, One should ALWAYS use a relay when wiring lights, no matter how small. It will save the life of any switch and prevent wire fires that could result from any switch failure. Relays aren't terribly expensive, but they can be daunting to wire if you are unsure of how they work. | ||
| Gerard Brooks (Wizard) New Member Username: Wizard Post Number: 16 Registered: 11-2003 |
In conjunction with a relay you should also install a fuse on the power side for additional protection. Cheers wizard | ||
| carl seashore (Drcarl) Member Username: Drcarl Post Number: 80 Registered: 07-2003 |
the daunt of relays is cleared up well in the tech articles. i, too, found them mysterious until looking over the various writeups. that and a visit to my electrical supplier for some clarification has made them simple to understand. the hella relays have the fuse built-in, eliminating an extra fuse-holder from the circuit. i am currently wiring 4 rack lights using greg's 2 relay setup and will get some pics when they go in. 7 relays total when you add 2 bumper lights and a rear work lamp! awaiting a switch holder from discount rovers and it will all look factory still inside. also found a guy who has a case of the green switch harness plugs for the factory switches-2 bucks each. email offline for his contacts. cheers, carl | ||
| Axel Haakonsen (Axel) Moderator Username: Axel Post Number: 614 Registered: 02-2003 |
Sure, great idea..... if you want to create a fire hazard. You have a 50/50 chance of ending up with an unfused circuit using that technique. Plus, you could create a poor connection for the circuit you are tapping into, which could cause heat buildup and more headaches. If you are going to tap into an existing circuit in the fusebox, the easiest way is to go to Pep Boys and get one of their "add a circuit" gizmos. It is a little box with fuseblades and two fuseholders on it, one of the fuse holders are empty. There is also a wire with a crimp connector coming off the little box. You remove the fuse in the fusebox that you want to tap into, and put it in the empty slot in the "add a circuit" box. Then you plug the box into your fusebox, and connect your new circuit to the wire coming off it. Now you have two properly fused circuits. To figure out what the max amperage running through your circuit is, divide total wattage by 12. - Axel |
