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Larry Hernandez (Onionz)
New Member Username: Onionz
Post Number: 2 Registered: 10-2003
| Posted on Friday, December 26, 2003 - 11:16 pm: |
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New to the board. I have pin pointed a sound coming from the waterpump when in idle, usually on first start. Sounds like the bearing wants to fail. I have two questions. What standard tools can I use to remove the fan/pulley? Trying to avoid buying special waterpump wrench/kit. How difficult is the job? I've worked on my Disco before, but first time on a waterpump replacement. 98 Disco Thanks, Larry
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Victor Biro (Vabiro)
Member Username: Vabiro
Post Number: 95 Registered: 10-2003
| Posted on Saturday, December 27, 2003 - 12:09 am: |
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Larry, I just had someone change the waterpump on my 98 disco, and would not recomend doing it yourself, unless you have the tool to remove the fan. What I noticed was that if you don't take the fan off you can't get the water pump off while the rad is in place. As a result, the 45 minute job of changing the water pump becomes a 2 hour job of removing the pump and rad, and replacing the fan. Just my observation of the job, not first-hand experience. cheers Victor |
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Robbie Donaldson (Robbie)
Senior Member Username: Robbie
Post Number: 486 Registered: 02-2002
| Posted on Saturday, December 27, 2003 - 12:11 am: |
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Doing the same thing right now myself Larry. The fan is a bitch, and I started too late to actually go out and get some proper tools, and have spent the last two hours trying in vain to hold the pulley in place to knock the nut loose. nut is 36mm, and what I have read is to use a strap wrench/tool to hold the pulley, or to rent the fan removal kit from a parts place. hopefully get the right tools and removal of the water pump done in the morning, and will report any problems i run into. |
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Aro and Joe (Deepdoo)
Member Username: Deepdoo
Post Number: 106 Registered: 08-2003
| Posted on Saturday, December 27, 2003 - 05:25 am: |
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I disagree with both. I just replaced the pump on my 98 disco. it took no more than an hour to remove. the hardest part was scraping off the old 78K worth of gasket crap. The trick is to find a sweet spot to wedge a cheater bar, or screwdriver, between the pulley and the pump, or other stationary part. This will give leverage to looosen the fan assembly. you will need a large wrench (spanner) i believe over 1.375". it isn't that hard, i used a screwdriver to hold the pulley in place and a pair of channel locks to loosen. you will also have to use the same method to remove the pulley too. unless i missed somthing. but i couldn't figure out any other way to get the pump off except remove the pulley too. as they say, necessity os the mother of all invention. It was absoultely critical for me to replace our water pump that day and I havd no time for proper tools. keep your head about it and it should come loose. by the way, remove the radiator??? no way, not for the water pump replacement. wiggle the fan shroud out of there and then remove the fan. after that there is plenty of room to work with.
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Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor)
Dweb Lounge Member Username: Nosivad_bor
Post Number: 1383 Registered: 02-2003
| Posted on Saturday, December 27, 2003 - 11:17 am: |
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i've only done it on a 3.9l RaRo but it didnt seem that bad. maybe for once i got lucky and it went smoothly. hardest part was getting to those tucked away nuts and bolts. don't forget the blue loctite when rethreading the bolts
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Wes (Wes)
Member Username: Wes
Post Number: 221 Registered: 02-2002
| Posted on Saturday, December 27, 2003 - 03:54 pm: |
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Removal of the radiator is not neccessary. When I replaced my disco's water pump, I used a very long screw driver to keep the fan from moving and an large adjustable wrench to get the nut off. The hardest part was getting the old gasket off, for that I used my dremel. |
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Michael Slade (Tawayama)
New Member Username: Tawayama
Post Number: 10 Registered: 11-2003
| Posted on Saturday, December 27, 2003 - 04:02 pm: |
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I'd be careful about using a dremel, or any other high-speed rotating tool to get gasket material off of the aluminum parts. I've seen firsthand what can happen if the tool slips or gets out of hand. Personally I use a thin flat paint scraper or wide screwdriver. The dremel might end up taking off more material under the gasket. If you're proficient with the dremel and confident of your skills, go for it. If not (like me), do the scraping (which can be a PITA). M
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Larry Hernandez (Onionz)
New Member Username: Onionz
Post Number: 3 Registered: 10-2003
| Posted on Saturday, December 27, 2003 - 04:18 pm: |
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I also have heard of using a srap wrench to hold the pulley in place.I ordered the pump, thermostat and upper and lower hoses. Thought I should replace those items also. Robbie report back on the waterpump replacement, for feed back. Thanks to all! |
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Jeff Mclaird (Granitedisco)
Member Username: Granitedisco
Post Number: 56 Registered: 08-2003
| Posted on Saturday, December 27, 2003 - 06:34 pm: |
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$9.99 strap wrench from Autozone and a huge spanner to do the fan Then a painters scraper or one of those plastic stanley blade handles. Jeff |
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Robbie Donaldson (Robbie)
Senior Member Username: Robbie
Post Number: 488 Registered: 02-2002
| Posted on Sunday, December 28, 2003 - 10:40 pm: |
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Just pulled off the old pump, will order a new one for overnight tomorrow morning. You all are right, as long as you have the correct tools, removing the fan is a piece of cake. The correct tool for me ended up being a Fan Clutch Wrench Set that my local AdvanceAuto had. It was a basic kit that was right on the shelf. Says it is labelled for Fords, and is made by AmPro. Comes with a 36mm, long, skinny wrench and a "fan clutch holding wrench." The 36mm is perfect for the nut with a 1/2" breaker and the holding wrench held the pulley perfectly with a 1/2" breaker attached. A little pb blaster sprayed the night before, and a little muscle and it was off in a matter of seconds. Use the pulley holder to keep the pulley still, unbolt the 3 10mm nuts from the pulley and take it off. Remove the inlet coolant hose and drain the coolant. Remove the 9 bolts holding the pump on. 5 are 10mm, 4 are 11mm (make sure and remember where the 4 11mm go. one 11mm is shorter than the other 3, so remember where that one goes - i just put them back in the old pump on the floor). Remove pump, might be stuck, so just a quick wack. Now the bitch part, scrape off old gasket from engine. Got most of it off, but will get some gasket remover and take off the rest tomorrow. Make sure and get it all. Install should be easy enough, but i'll let you know if i run into any issues. |
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Geoff 93 RRC (Geoff)
Member Username: Geoff
Post Number: 189 Registered: 11-2002
| Posted on Sunday, December 28, 2003 - 11:36 pm: |
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Be careful not to over torque those little bolts. I broke 2 on my 3.9L. Luckily they were accessible enough to get the stubs out. Mine broke at 20 Nm (which I thought was the right torque value - wrong!). You have a different front cover so not sure what the correct values for you are. |
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Brian Dickens (Bri)
Senior Member Username: Bri
Post Number: 855 Registered: 08-2002
| Posted on Monday, December 29, 2003 - 10:24 am: |
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You can borrow those things from Autozone--free. |
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Robbie Donaldson (Robbie)
Senior Member Username: Robbie
Post Number: 490 Registered: 02-2002
| Posted on Monday, December 29, 2003 - 11:17 am: |
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no autozones around here though, and none, and i mean none of the local big name parts places rent tools anymore (AdvanceAuto, Napa, PepBoys). for the cost - $24 - figured was a worthwhile investment. |
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Erik Olson (Jon)
Senior Member Username: Jon
Post Number: 521 Registered: 02-2002
| Posted on Monday, December 29, 2003 - 12:57 pm: |
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Do not remove the radiator. The proper spanner is just about a 32nd under 1-1/2", and the strap wrench is the best tool for holding the fan in place while breaking the viscous from it. I would also back the comment on the Dremel for removal of hardened gasket material. This is a dangerous practice on that soft aluminum. I used a bottle of 409, constantly wetting the surface and scraping with a 3/4" wood chisel. Keeping it wet during the scrape almost guarantees that you won't get purchase on anything but the gasket material. To hold the new gasket in place for remounting, coat the back of the gasket with lithium grease. It'll hold the piece in place while you get the first few bolts threaded-up. I've got a 1/2 done tech article on this - someday I'll finish it... Cheers, e |
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Robbie Donaldson (Robbie)
Senior Member Username: Robbie
Post Number: 491 Registered: 02-2002
| Posted on Tuesday, December 30, 2003 - 09:57 pm: |
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install was simple. a tiny bit of hylomar to hold the gasket in place. 28nm on the long bolts with loctite on the thread. 25nm on the remaining bolts (at least that's what i took from my reading of the manual, might not be correct, but it seems to have worked). pulley bolts tightened to 10nm and the fan tightened to 56nm. |
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wayne reyes (Snodog)
Member Username: Snodog
Post Number: 55 Registered: 07-2003
| Posted on Wednesday, December 31, 2003 - 09:04 am: |
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Dont use a dremel tool can wear at the alloy,Ive done the job last month,use gasket remover and plastic scraper,have patience it will take a few sprays and scrapings to get gasket off. |
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Sergei Rodionov (Uzbad)
Member Username: Uzbad
Post Number: 241 Registered: 08-2003
| Posted on Wednesday, December 31, 2003 - 11:09 am: |
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And to keep gasket in place you can just insert bolts into waterpump and put gasket onto them, before putting whole thing into final place. That also will prevent any damage to gasket when you screwing bolts on. |