| Author | Message | ||
     Gwie Kiong (Gwiek) New Member Username: Gwiek Post Number: 1 Registered: 12-2003 |
Hi there, I need helps. My Disco 95 Auto has problem with transfercase ("CLUNK" noise when change from drive to reverse and is geting worse) and I have been thinking of getting a good used transfercase on ebay. I found one but only designs for 96-99. But from my understanding all disco I, use LT 230Q-automatic. Any inputs would be appreciated. Thanks. One more, any sites that I can visit on how to do the installation. | ||
| Lewis Jones (Cutter) Senior Member Username: Cutter Post Number: 412 Registered: 10-2003 |
Are you positive its the transfer case? And I noticed your from Jersey, a local shop might do you better than ebay, what with all the shipping charges, etc. Make sure its the T/C first before you spend any money. It might be the trans., driveshafts, etc. Lewis | ||
| michael a. kerr (Ethanrover98) New Member Username: Ethanrover98 Post Number: 14 Registered: 11-2003 |
Gwie, Definently take Lewis' advice and do some more troubleshooting....... At the very least post some more specifics about your truck. How long have you owned it? How many miles are on it? How long have you heard the "clunk"? Is it vibrating? | ||
| Ron Brown (Ron) Senior Member Username: Ron Post Number: 630 Registered: 04-2001 |
It is not the whole t-case, at worst it needs a new input. Find someone decent to work on your truck. | ||
| Shaun Power (Shaunp) Member Username: Shaunp Post Number: 220 Registered: 05-2003 |
Check the rear A frame ball joint. | ||
| Gwie Kiong (Gwiek) New Member Username: Gwiek Post Number: 2 Registered: 12-2003 |
Thanks for all the input.(Lewis, Michael, Ron and Shaun) Here is the details: I own this '95 Disco for almost 5 years and had only 38,000 when I bought it. The car has 2"lift with Roverthym Radius arm, Billstein Spring, Shocks, Trailing arm, Safari Gard Front Bumper, GRB front shaft not installed because vibrates more compare to stock(U-joint replaced recently). Now the mileage is more than 90,000. Up coming project: Replace 2 front bearings and seals(Never been done and it is about time) and rear a frame ball joint(feel the clunk noise from rear wheels when make slow turning) I did a research that this early Disco I has transfercase problem(it is common). If I am not mistaken the front spine shaft(transfercase) wears out after a while due to not enough oil to circulate. From now and then, when I change the gear to R, snaps harder. I am afraid it's going to break soon. I tried to bring it to local Land Rover shop but the line was too long and only oil changed and inspection were done. The mechanic/owner suspected the front shaft output bearing(transfercase). So,I took it to gas station around my house and have the bearing changed. The result is the same. My other options is to change the Tranfer case. What is your thoughts? Thanks in advance. Gwie. | ||
| Peter Sharratt (Gummikuh) Senior Member Username: Gummikuh Post Number: 271 Registered: 02-2003 |
Hi I thought the output shaft problem only affected the manual box. I would get underneath while someone rocks the truck backwards and forwards. Pete | ||
| Shaun Power (Shaunp) Member Username: Shaunp Post Number: 223 Registered: 05-2003 |
The fault you are referring to is actually wear on the output shaft of the main gear box not the transfer box. It's easy to check just remove the round PTO cover plate on the back of the box, remove the bearing housing and put both boxes in neutral. The transfer drive gear will just slide out with a jiggle and you can check the splines. The fault does effect auto's just not as much as manual boxes. The retro fit was a drive gear with 4 x 10mm holes drilled in it to let oil in. If your car has the problem you can replace the gear and 1/2 the lash, asuming the autobox out put shaft is not total toast. Any car with a Transfer box serial no that ends in a letter less than "F" has the problem. | ||
| Gwie Kiong (Gwiek) New Member Username: Gwiek Post Number: 3 Registered: 12-2003 |
Shaun, did it ever happen to you before. It seems you have a great deal of experience. When you said PTO cover plate, is this the one on the left side of the transfercase and directly connected to Transmission.(from rearview) If this is right, should I drain the oil from Transfercase and transmission first before doing this procedure. "drive gear with 4 x 10mm holes drilled in it to let oil in" and "If your car has the problem you can replace the gear and 1/2 the lash" Are these inside the round PTO cover? Sorry, I am still new to this. Thanks for your quick response. | ||
| Shaun Power (Shaunp) Member Username: Shaunp Post Number: 224 Registered: 05-2003 |
PTO cover is the round one on the left top of the Transfer box at the rear. Behind this is a bearing housing which you need to prize out. You will now see the drive gear in question, with both boxes in nuetral this will slide out with a jiggle/turn. You can now inspect the splines of both the gear and the shaft and also see if the drilled gear has been already retro fitted. The idea of replacing the gear is that both the shaft and the gear wear, by changing the gear, now only the shaft is worn so you will have half the lash. I have fixed heaps of these. | ||
| Gwie Kiong (Gwiek) New Member Username: Gwiek Post Number: 4 Registered: 12-2003 |
Shaun, Thanks. I am going to check it tomorrow or the day after and let you know. | ||
| Bazzle (Bazzle) Member Username: Bazzle Post Number: 68 Registered: 09-2003 |
After you check and :fix: add an extra pint of oil to xfer case so splines get lubed. Bazzle | ||
| Shaun Power (Shaunp) Member Username: Shaunp Post Number: 226 Registered: 05-2003 |
Bazzle you can add extra if you want but I never do. Once they have the drilled gear they seem fine. I've pulled them a part many kms after retro fitt and the shaft is not fretted. There is heaps of splash up there it just can't get in to the shaft without the drilled gear. Some manual cars were stuffed at 30k km particularly TDI's. My own V8 car was done at 40k with a shaft and gear (under warrenty), it's now done 125k and is still perfect. I run Penrite 10/10ths synth 75/90 race gear oil in my car and any one elses car if they pay for it. | ||
| Dave Thomas (Dthomas) New Member Username: Dthomas Post Number: 22 Registered: 11-2003 |
Anyone have a Rover part # and price for the gear? | ||
| Shaun Power (Shaunp) Member Username: Shaunp Post Number: 227 Registered: 05-2003 |
The gear is different depending on the type of main gear box ie LT77,R380 or ZF auto. They also have different numbers of teeth. I think the last one I got was $200+ oz for a factory part. You can get aftermarket, but some of these are noisy so be careful. You get factory part from UK for about 90 quid and the after market for 50 quid I think. | ||
| Arthur S. Au (Arthur) New Member Username: Arthur Post Number: 29 Registered: 10-2002 |
"Any car with a Transfer box serial no that ends in a letter less than "F" has the problem." Where is the serial number located? I recall looking all over the transfer box but did not see it. Our 95 Disco too thuds pretty loudly when selecting reverse. What's the consequence a failure? | ||
| Ron Brown (Ron) Senior Member Username: Ron Post Number: 642 Registered: 04-2001 |
No 95s had F suffix. They were all E. Although many had the update under warranty, either the early flinger or the later gear update and you can only tell that by pulling the cover and looking. The consequences of a failure is that you lose drive and have to do the input and output mod that you would have done to help the clunk. There is no chance of collateral damage. That said I have never seen a total failure on an automatic disco (only 5 speeds and someone posted a failure on a 97 D90). You can pull the PTO cover and see how bad the wear is if you are worried. In my experience the clunk is usually a combination of things. U joint and especially diff wear are culprits as well as the bushings/A-frame ball joint and trans wear. While it sounds bad it is almost never terminal or serious enough to warranty attention (u-joint wear excluded). If it is not bad you can put on the flinger for $25 or so and it should slow/stop any additional wear. Ron | ||
| Shaun Power (Shaunp) Member Username: Shaunp Post Number: 228 Registered: 05-2003 |
Ron is correct I've never seen an Auto fail completely either. I have drilled original gears if they are not too worn on both 5 speed and auto cars. All you need to do is drill 4 x 10mm holes half way along the spool between the drive gear and the pto dogs. The gear is case hardened and can take a bit to drill. |
