| Author | Message | ||
     justin meade (Xmustang420) New Member Username: Xmustang420 Post Number: 2 Registered: 12-2003 |
I was wandering what would be the cheapest way to be able to fit 33x10.50 tires on my 1996 disco. | ||
| Lewis Jones (Cutter) Senior Member Username: Cutter Post Number: 417 Registered: 10-2003 |
trim...mount them, drive, cut where they touch. | ||
| Alan Bates (Alanb) Senior Member Username: Alanb Post Number: 398 Registered: 07-2002 |
Get the Sawzall out! The right way to do it ain't gonna be cheap. | ||
| Ray Gerber (Raygerber) Member Username: Raygerber Post Number: 201 Registered: 09-2002 |
Justin- What diameter wheels do you intend to use here? To my knowledge most 33x10.50's are going to be on 15" rims, which you can get for Disco's but are not the standard 16" size that normally associates with metric sized tires. Cutter's and Alan's explanations pretty much sum it up, but your post could use some amplification which may lead to better advice. For instance, if you're starting from stock, how can you get there from here, there are quite a few ways. Some would say go with a 2" suspension/2" body lift, some would say go with 3" suspension and trim (that's what I did). Going past 2" generally means making sure you have a u-joint upfront, which is a strong case for doing 2"/2" I suppose. Then you have to figure out which tire size you want if you're sticking with the standard 16" rim size. I went with 255/85/16 BFG MT's which are about 10" wide and 33" tall, but there are other sizes to be had and a little searching should answer those questions. As an FYI the BFG MT's in that size are fairly cheap, as far as BFG MT's go, and look great. I did a fair amount of trimming of both the front and rear and its still a work in progress, here's what it looks like now:  Hope that helps some, going down the bigger tires road snowballs very quickly... | ||
| Ho Chung (Thediscoho) Moderator Username: Thediscoho Post Number: 450 Registered: 02-2002 |
http://www.expeditionexchange.com/miller24k/DSC08654.jpg just shy of 3 inches lift. 255/85-16. Ho Chung | ||
| Blue (Blue) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Blue Post Number: 985 Registered: 04-2003 |
oooh....pimpin lights | ||
| justin meade (Xmustang420) New Member Username: Xmustang420 Post Number: 3 Registered: 12-2003 |
Thanks Ray. Yea I'm starting from stock and I have it narrowed down to a rovertym 2" suspension /2" body lift or a 3" suspension lift from northwestparts with some cutting. The guys at northwest said that with a 3" lift all you could run is 31's with out cutting so. Did you put new fender flares or did you just cut it and left it? What kind of Suspension lift did you use? Nice rover that's right down the road that i wanted to head down what other mods did you add to your rover? Thanks again. | ||
| Glenn Guinto (Glenn) Senior Member Username: Glenn Post Number: 798 Registered: 02-2002 |
Outside of trimming, you need to consider beefing up other components on your truck. You might have a problem with your stock axles as these aren't really made to handle the weight of such tires in an off-road environment. Also with that size lift, you will have some drivetline vibs to deal with. So outside of taking out that sawzall to trim, be ready to open up your wallet as well.
I have just shy of 2" lift (OME HD - matched passenger side) and I'm running 235/85-16s and I just trimmed a bit on the rear fender. I can only imagine what kind of clearance would an additional inch of lift will give me. I guess if you're running those wide tires then you would indeed trim. Bottom line is anything could be done for cheap, but to do it right takes a bit of investment.  FWIW, YMMV, yada yada yada -Glenn | ||
| Matthew A. Barnes (Discoveryxd) Member Username: Discoveryxd Post Number: 241 Registered: 08-2003 |
I'd say check out the RTE suspension kits. I have the 3" suspension kit myself, and I'm very happy with it. Everything is reinforced and castor corrected. I also have a lot more flex. Don't forget about extended brake lines/ ABS sensors. With Great Basin Rovers dirveline(s), it makes an awsome setup. There's lots of RTE flex pics, but if you want I could e-mail you some. I don't know why, but I can't post them on this sight. Matt | ||
| Shawn McKenzie (Shawn) Member Username: Shawn Post Number: 165 Registered: 10-2002 |
Justin, I have the NWP 3" springs and OME shocks on my '96 with no body lift. I'm using 32.1" BFG AT KO's (265/75-16) and only needed to trim a little from the rear quarter panel at the bottom to clear the tires when stuffed. I'm sure I could go to a full 33" tire with a bit of additional trimming. I haven't tried it though, so this is just an eyeball guess. Just do it. | ||
| marc olivares (Pugs) Senior Member Username: Pugs Post Number: 285 Registered: 12-2002 |
255/85-16MTs, lengthened corrected radius arms(1/2"), arm extension(1/2"), spaced rear links(3/4"), cv front drive shaft, 3" ome lift and very little trimming on the rear quarter (same as a 235/85). that's what it took me, and it stuffs like a madman. check rovertym for prices and then do the math. it's not cheap, but then again what is? and boy is it worth it! marc | ||
| Ray Gerber (Raygerber) Member Username: Raygerber Post Number: 202 Registered: 09-2002 |
Justin- I have the approx 3" OME springs up front, and approx 2" in the back with a 1" spacer, which was an easy upgrade for me b/c I bought the truck with an OME 2" lift on it and 265/70/16s (about 30"s). I say approx b/c with this lift its advertised as the 3" lift but its often not quite that high, especially with a ARB/winch on the front, roof rack, etc. But as the other posts have alluded to-there's always something more. The previous owner also had dumped the cash to throw on the $G 3-link system, upgraded the rear trailing arms, and do the U-joint thing-which collectively shys away from the term "cheap," but since I didn't pay for it when I decided to go this route I spent about $130 (a pair of springs and a pair of spacers) plus the tires. Those things, along with anything that I missed that seems to be covered by the others that posted are important and shouldn't be overlooked. As far as new info to add, my trimming was significant only b/c I went crazy with my dremel. My front fenders had the flat portion of the wheel well arch removed just b/c it was an easy line to follow with cut-off discs (and I wasn't overly concerned with the looks, although it ended up looking pretty good which isn't clear in the pic I posted). The rear was more like the "camel cut" style trimming you can find in the tech section here (I think), which was done mainly to avoid chopping on the doors and b/c it wasn't really necessary to do more than make the arch more oval vice circular. I'm really happy with the back, the front I probably could have gone easier on but there's no going back now and its does give an agressive profile that I like so no big loss to me (its not like the truck has a resale value or anything). Once I chop up my ARB to improve approach angle it should all complement each other very well. Same-same with regard to trimming up the back once I get a new rear bumper. Its worth pointing out that I really like the stance and feel of the truck now. The BFG MT's in that size ride pretty well (its all relative to me) are a major step up offroad compared to the BFG AT's that I had before. I like the tall & skinny look on the truck as well so its well worth it IMHO... That being said it's probably a lot "cheaper" to go the 2" route and get 235/85 (32's) or if you want to work wider 265/16 (32's but wider) Hope that helps, I searched for awhile before I decided how to go the way I did-and a lot of it was driven by what was already on the truck. Starting from stock, you have more options but a lot more cost to incur up front to jump up to 3" right off the bat. | ||
| Tarek Khalil (Pharaohdisco) New Member Username: Pharaohdisco Post Number: 2 Registered: 12-2003 |
I am running with Good Year 265/75R16 MTR's and an OME 3" lift on my D1. You will not require any front trimming, maybe on the front bumber endcaps if you have not changed to a TJM or ARB or similar front bumper. I have an aluminum TJM T15 front bumber. You will need to slightly trim the rear fenders. You will require to measure horizontaly towards the rear from the lower edge of the fender near to the wheel about 2 inches and again upwards towards the wheel arch about 9.5 inches. This is the point just below the rubbing strip if you have rubbing strips fixed on your Discovery. You can fix some tape on the rear fender and actually draw the lines prior to cutting. You will need to cut this triangle. This is called the Camel Trophy Cut and you will notice that the rear fenders on all Camel Trophy Discoveries are cut this way. But be careful, you will need to undergo many other changes. I have changed both the front and rear driveshafts to double cardan to eliminate vibrations. Also changed the rotoflex connection on the rear drive shaft to a 4 bolt flange connection. The front radius arms have been changed to correct for castor angle as well as the rear trailing links. |
