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DiscoWeb Bulletin Board » Message Archives » 2004 Archives - Discovery Technical » Archive through January 04, 2004 » Not typical ?. Rewiring Stock Fog & Driving Lights. For the Wizards. « Previous Next »

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Evan (Bahnstorm)
New Member
Username: Bahnstorm

Post Number: 15
Registered: 03-2003
Posted on Friday, January 02, 2004 - 01:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Here is unique question for you electrical wizards. I have a 98 LSE with stock air dam fog lights, active with low beam, and a brush guard with driving lights, active with the high beams. Both are turned on by the same fog light switch below the clock. Other than the bulbs and lights themselves the switches and wiring is all the factory setup.
My goal is to be able to turn the air damn fog lights on without having the headlights on, light switch in position 2. In other words the fog lights on with just the sidelights, light switch in position one.
I had a similar setup on another vehicle and with good bulbs the low lights without headlights are wonderful in snow when you are on the backroads. When the foglights and the headlights are on together you get much more glare.

My thought was I could pull the light switch and splice the foglight wire, purple wire in pin one, into the sidelight wire, red wire in pin 4, to give the relay power when just the sidelights were on. I tried this and it did not work.

Anyone have any ideas? I figured this would be easy to do without having to rewire everything, guess I was wrong.
You can view the wiring diagram here:
http://www.people.cornell.edu/pages/efe4/images/rover/foglights.jpg

and here
http://www.people.cornell.edu/pages/efe4/images/rover/lightswitch.jpg

Thanks to any one who attempts to solve this,
Evan
 

Victor (Vabiro)
Member
Username: Vabiro

Post Number: 107
Registered: 10-2003
Posted on Friday, January 02, 2004 - 05:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Evan,

By the look of it you should be able to hook up pin one on the switch(+ power to switch).

If you want to do just ignition sense you can connect to the dimmer on the clock which is usually just above the fog light switch. Since you're only supplying to trigger the relay, you should be OK just tapping into the wire, and this will give you power when the ignition is on.

To switch it on with the parking lights connect to fuse 8 (chaeck this. It is what is in the Haynes manual) with pin 1 on the switch.

Victor
 

Victor (Vabiro)
Member
Username: Vabiro

Post Number: 108
Registered: 10-2003
Posted on Friday, January 02, 2004 - 05:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Evan,

Just a PS: You might want to use the nice neat fuse taps and spade connectors that you can get from the local auto supply.

When you pull out the fuse, there will be one side of the fuse plug that has power when the parking lights are on, and one that doesn't. Use the side that doesn't because it will be after the fuse in case of a problem.

Victor
 

Evan (Bahnstorm)
New Member
Username: Bahnstorm

Post Number: 16
Registered: 03-2003
Posted on Friday, January 02, 2004 - 10:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Victor,
Thanks for the advice. It appears to me that the fog light switch itself has power at all times. The green light in the switch illuminates when the switch is on with the ignition on, but the fog lights and driving lights do not turn on unless the headlight switch is in position two, main beams.
I think what might be complicatiting this is that the fog light switch and headlight switch are connected through the "multi-funtion unit".
If this is the case I may try to splice the foglight switch output wire into the input of the relay, bypassing the MFU. If that works it would mean adding another switch for the driving lights.
I'm surprised that Land Rover didn't run two switches stock, when you added the brushbar kit.
 

Victor (Vabiro)
Member
Username: Vabiro

Post Number: 113
Registered: 10-2003
Posted on Friday, January 02, 2004 - 11:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Evan,

What you're saying makes sense, but I can't find the connection on the MFU in the diagram from the Haynes manual. However there are several connections to the MFU from the headlights.

On my truck the light on the switch goes out when the high beams are turned on. That's why I assumed that there was a relay that kicked off the power when the highs go on. I didn't notice the effect that the ignition had.

Any chance you could run a temporary power from the fuse panel to pin 1 on the switch, or have you tried something like that?

Victor

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