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Michael Farr
| Posted on Wednesday, May 15, 2002 - 10:51 am: |
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I posted this on the RN board, just looking for more answers. I'm going tomorrow evening to look at a 1988 RRC with 130xxx miles. The guy wants $3,000obo. What/where are the problem areas to look at? I know about the tailgate rust problem. Would it be worth my time/money to take it to the LR place here in Charleston, SC to have it looked at? If so, approximately how much should I expect to spend for a check up? I'm not looking for perfection, just a RR to get me through 12-15 months. Current owner tells me that all of the electric options (windows, doorlocks, wipers, radio, sunroof etc.) work but not the cruise control. Air, heat, defrost also work very well. Thanks in advance, Michael Farr 1973 SIII 88" (Rita) elcid2000(AT)hotmail(DOT)com |
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jb
| Posted on Wednesday, May 15, 2002 - 12:16 pm: |
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Have a decent mechanic check the compression is even or you can check it yourself with a gauge. examine the exhaust and and car for rust. Check the steering is tight and the box has/holds fluid - they can leak badly. Check ball joints for play. Drive it easy then hard uphills to see if it misses or bogs down. Drive it it 4 lo on gravel to make sure it engages. Run the VIN# at the dealer to check work history. Ask for work history. Make sure all fluids are ok. Look at the ground where it is parked regularly to see what it leaks and how much!! Offer $2600 cash if it is cherry. I think there are too many nice ones out there to settle for junk. |
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AdrianS
| Posted on Wednesday, May 15, 2002 - 12:44 pm: |
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The Rover dealer by me in NJ charges about 160 bucks and they will evaluate any rover you bring in. They told me they spend about 1 1\2hrs checking the truck and you can wait while they do it. Not a bad deal if you really want the truck. Adrian 91RRC |
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AdrianS
| Posted on Wednesday, May 15, 2002 - 12:45 pm: |
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They will also give you a list of what needs to be replaced or repaired. Adrian 91RRC |
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Michael Farr
| Posted on Wednesday, May 15, 2002 - 02:27 pm: |
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Any other way to test for missing/bogging down? The highest point in a three county area is only 13 feet above sea level. Don't you just love the SC lowcountry? |
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tgfynmjr
| Posted on Wednesday, May 15, 2002 - 03:41 pm: |
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0-90 fast |
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Ron
| Posted on Wednesday, May 15, 2002 - 10:03 pm: |
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drive it hard. Also ask when the last time everything was changed was. Look at the coolent oil, tranny fluid etc. neglect kills them and they are maintaince pigs. I have found you are better spending more upfront. Ron |
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p m
| Posted on Wednesday, May 15, 2002 - 10:30 pm: |
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Michael, for whatever it's worth - I bought my 89 10 months ago for 6k. Maybe out of curiosity, maybe out of stupidity, maybe out of my wish to keep the rangie running forever, I took it to the dealer to see what's up. I told them that I already bought the truck, so no need to BS me or the PO. No need to check the bodywork or interior condition. Still, the fellers charged me $85 (an hour's worth of labor). They came up with a $5500 shopping list, half of which was typically LR dealer price-inflated, and another half - totally bogus. Like brakes that they said were totally gone, so that they didn't even test drive the truck! (there were honest 3mm of brake pad thickness when I set about replacing them). I believe this was the last time I've been at the dealer. Do yourself a favor and find an honest shop. peter |
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Michael Farr
| Posted on Thursday, May 16, 2002 - 08:33 am: |
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Hey JB, What kind of compression should I be looking for? I don't have the RR work shop manual yet so I have no idea. Thanks, Michael |
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doug james (Dgj95lwb)
| Posted on Thursday, May 16, 2002 - 02:15 pm: |
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My 95 4.2L has the range of 157# to 162# You want a tight range, variation less than 10%. If greater, then a rebuild oppty is nearing. Gauges made by diff mfgrs can read differently, but the range/variation is most important. cheers- doug james |
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