| Author | Message | ||
     Matthew A. Collmann (Bubba) New Member Username: Bubba Post Number: 10 Registered: 08-2003 |
Is there anyway to correct this. The tach needle is all over the place when at idle, all the time.?? | ||
| Chris Browne (Chris_browne) Senior Member Username: Chris_browne Post Number: 542 Registered: 02-2003 |
sounds like another alternator about to go...fix it now or be prepared to get stranded.... | ||
| Gerard Brooks (Wizard) New Member Username: Wizard Post Number: 31 Registered: 11-2003 |
This usally happens when there is a loose connection on the back of the alternator(the spade connection)I think, or the carbon brushes are worn out. You will have to buy a new regulator complete with brushes though, It can be changed in about 15 min. Cheers wizard | ||
| bluesman (Hywy61) Member Username: Hywy61 Post Number: 79 Registered: 02-2003 |
seen it a hundred times - classic bad alternator symptom - change it immediately. | ||
| Joe Still (Joedisco) Member Username: Joedisco Post Number: 110 Registered: 09-2002 |
Tigthen the spade connector first. | ||
| Matthew A. Collmann (Bubba) New Member Username: Bubba Post Number: 11 Registered: 08-2003 |
wow, it's been happening for about 3 months, I will check the connector, sounds like I should order an alternator too. Any suggestions where to get the best deal? | ||
| Baron (Chris_browne) Senior Member Username: Chris_browne Post Number: 543 Registered: 02-2003 |
People post about remans failing frequently, at a point in time, its worth going genuine..... | ||
| Matthew A. Collmann (Bubba) New Member Username: Bubba Post Number: 12 Registered: 08-2003 |
just tightened the connector and the problem cleared. Any other symptoms to look for on the alternator going out problem? | ||
| Enoch Snyder (Esnyder) Member Username: Esnyder Post Number: 84 Registered: 10-2002 |
The fact that it jumped as long as it did without failing meant the connection was most likely the culprit, as he found. I've had a couple go (genuine, too) and they were already gone once the tach started jumping. | ||
| Will Tillery (Will) Senior Member Username: Will Post Number: 268 Registered: 11-2002 |
The remanufacturing process depends on who, how and what is replaced. Most of the time these remanufacturing guys do a great job on the internals...bearings etc but simply skip the voltage regulator which is more than likely the reason you had it rebuilt or replaced in the first place. If you end up getting it rebuilt or remanufactured insure you have a shop that is aware of what the heck they are working on. | ||
| thom mathie (Muskyman) Senior Member Username: Muskyman Post Number: 524 Registered: 11-2002 |
i just got mine redone and I will bet it lasts every bit as long as the $500+ one from the dealer. it all depends on if it is truley rebuilt or if the culprit part is just replaced. many rebuilders just check to see whats bad and then replace that part. the guy I use and have for ages completly disasembles the units(alternators,starters, blower motors,ect ect)then boils the cases then installs all new parts that have been tested in house to asure quality. he offers a one year warrenty on everything and in all the years I have used him I have never had a bad rebuild. now something else to consider is that the alternators in rovers are very rare, so few rebuilders have any expierience with them. so taking it to a rebuilder and having him get a "kit" from his supplier and using you as his guinae pig might not be a wise move and i would think would end up in problems. | ||
| C. Fisher (Netter) Member Username: Netter Post Number: 66 Registered: 02-2003 |
Speed Sensor? I had mine replaced after having similiar problems | ||
| Matthew A. Collmann (Bubba) New Member Username: Bubba Post Number: 13 Registered: 08-2003 |
Did you but the VSS online, if so where? thanks | ||
| thom mathie (Muskyman) Senior Member Username: Muskyman Post Number: 526 Registered: 11-2002 |
if the speedometer is bouncing then its the VSS if it is the tach then it is either the alternator or a loose connection(the middle one) on the back of the alternator. MM | ||
| diane moler (Taxi) New Member Username: Taxi Post Number: 1 Registered: 01-2004 |
had my alternator replaced and my tach is still crazy when it decides to work; most of the time it just sits at 0. | ||
| Joe Still (Joedisco) Member Username: Joedisco Post Number: 114 Registered: 09-2002 |
Hook up a voltmeter of some kind to the cig lighter and keep an eye on the charging. 13.8v after start down to 13.4 after long drive is what I see. If the charge rate is normal consider checking continuity of tach wire back to instrument cluster. After that you get to take advantage of LR marketing hype of "easy to remove instrument cluster" (ha, ha) Or do without. | ||
| Sergei Rodionov (Uzbad) Senior Member Username: Uzbad Post Number: 268 Registered: 08-2003 |
Matthew - if it goes just up and down and never falls to zero or something like that - it might be not alternator, but infamous "erratic idle", that can be potentially cured by cleaning up IAC motor and all other lovely air lines (including damn U piece at flamecatcher). There is good article in tech sections of atlanticbritish about it. If its going down to zero without motor stalling - then it most likely alternator. Try to clean contacts, if it wont help - new alternator is the answer. I recently cured mine with new MeanGreen alternator and truck as happy as pig in $hit  Not to mention that its higher amperage output. | ||
| Norm Orschnorschki (Norm) Member Username: Norm Post Number: 98 Registered: 02-2003 |
RAM Electric sells replacement parts for the factory alternator. Don't know how good they are, but they're a hell of a lot cheaper to rebuild with these parts than buying a new one for $500. ---Norm |
