| Author | Message | ||
     Matt Anderson (Disco01) Member Username: Disco01 Post Number: 118 Registered: 10-2003 |
Leak is around round thing below what I would assume is torque converter....engine oil beads up on bolts. Also, you can see some rear main seepage. Can I tighten these bolts at all? Thanks  | ||
| John S. Bleazard (Injun) New Member Username: Injun Post Number: 4 Registered: 12-2003 |
Sometimes, valve cover gaskets can leak down the back of the engine around the bellhousing and basically mimic oil leaks from a rear main seal. I would first check this out by looking between the firewall and the engine around the heads and intakes. If it is oily and dirty, most likely this is the culprit. If not, I would look towards the main seal. Maybe clean up the rear of the engine as best as possible and check it after a few hours to see if you can catch the leak fro mthe source. How many miles? Sometimes higher mileage motors produce blowby that can cause pressure in the oil galleries high enough that it will rupture the seal on the mains or blow the dipstick out. Good Luck | ||
| Kristopher March (Apexdisco) Senior Member Username: Apexdisco Post Number: 255 Registered: 02-2002 |
I had oil buildup in the same area. I cleaned it up with rag and determined that my oil cooler lines were leaking. It was blowing back down over everything. Fortunately it's a slow leak. Something I'll get to fixing in the Spring. | ||
| EricV (Bender2033) Senior Member Username: Bender2033 Post Number: 284 Registered: 08-2002 |
Leak? That's not a leak! Look under my truck and you will see many true manly leaks! Silly man!  | ||
| Matt Anderson (Disco01) Member Username: Disco01 Post Number: 120 Registered: 10-2003 |
Hahaha.......yeah definitely a wussy leak I guess. I think it might be leaking from the oil cooler lines if I think about it. I wasn't worried about it, it has never leaked onto the ground so I never thought it was anything to worry about. I just was wondering. When I get a leak with a pair of balls I will post a pic. Thanks guys | ||
| Brian Dickens (Bri) Senior Member Username: Bri Post Number: 930 Registered: 08-2002 |
What leak? | ||
| Will Tillery (Will) Senior Member Username: Will Post Number: 263 Registered: 11-2002 |
Was that pic taken as your truck was coming off the assembly line?? Damn that •••••• is clean. On a serious note look towards the front of the truck at your hoses and lines...Most of the time this area picks up leakage from up front which is blown back at higher speeds....but in all honesty if this is all you have and you didnt pressure wash that area before you took that pic...be happy. | ||
| Will Tillery (Will) Senior Member Username: Will Post Number: 264 Registered: 11-2002 |
since when did tran followed by ny become a bad word?? | ||
| Matt Anderson (Disco01) Member Username: Disco01 Post Number: 122 Registered: 10-2003 |
Well I pressure washed it with degreaser on Sunday to see if they leak would come back and so I could try and find the source. I think it might be getting blown back, I am not worried about it much I just wish I knew where it was coming from. | ||
| Will Tillery (Will) Senior Member Username: Will Post Number: 265 Registered: 11-2002 |
What color is the leakage? | ||
| Matt Anderson (Disco01) Member Username: Disco01 Post Number: 123 Registered: 10-2003 |
It is browny--engine oil color. It is not trans fluid, unless my once red fluid is now turned brown. Oddly, I changed the oil the day before the pics were taken but the oil on the leaks looked dirty. Thanks Matt | ||
| Chris Browne (Chris_browne) Senior Member Username: Chris_browne Post Number: 550 Registered: 02-2003 |
They're not leaks!!! C'mon Guys this is the Land Rovers built in chassis oiling Rust proofing system....... | ||
| Matt Anderson (Disco01) Member Username: Disco01 Post Number: 125 Registered: 10-2003 |
well there is no rust.......... | ||
| David Huddleson (Dhuddleson) New Member Username: Dhuddleson Post Number: 10 Registered: 09-2003 |
On my vehicle (North America 1998 D1 V8 with AT), both the transmission cooler lines, and the engine cooler lines are weeping/leaking, from the metal/rubber crimped parts. Some leaks are worse than others, so I am considering to replace some/all of the lines. I see that there are genuine and OEM replacements, and wonder if the OEM's may be manufactured a bit better knowing how the Genuine ones seem to have regular leaks. Any comments or experience out there? Of course fixing these leaks may promote the rust that is currently being kept at bay with constant lubrication :-) | ||
| eric johnson (Eric2) Member Username: Eric2 Post Number: 206 Registered: 05-2003 |
Dave - Try to find a place that makes new lines for industrial apps. Like a Parker-Hanifan dealer. They usually will do a better job on the connection ends. The problem may be getting the right fittings. | ||
| Ron Johnson (Chauner) Member Username: Chauner Post Number: 78 Registered: 05-2003 |
Just fixed every leak on my Rover, everything from valve cover gaskets, intake manifold gaskets, oil lines, oil pan gaskets, etc. I got tired of the wife telling me to clean up the driveway. | ||
| Bruce Potier (Brucep) Member Username: Brucep Post Number: 108 Registered: 06-2003 |
Yeah Dave, I second Eric's suggestion. I had a commercial rubber-hose outfit refit with new couplings for both •••••• lines, costs $45 and took them 1-hour. Approx 1 year and no leaks. Sure beats buying complete replacment hoses. | ||
| Brian O'Connor (Hooky) Member Username: Hooky Post Number: 57 Registered: 09-2003 |
If that leak has you up at nights I had better not post a shot of mine LOL I'd have to call in one of those phsyc teams to talk down and out from your attic! Mostly power steering - makes everything look like hell! |
