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Jack Leitch (Liveattheedge)
New Member
Username: Liveattheedge

Post Number: 35
Registered: 12-2003
Posted on Thursday, January 08, 2004 - 01:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

XD had its 82000 service today. Needs a few hoses replacing, but the biggest thing is the rear main seal needs replacing. The guy at the dealer said you have to take out the transmission and do it from under??? I've gotten pretty involved with the rover v-8 be4. Gave it a top end re-build few thousand back. The part is cheap cheap but the dealer will charge me over a grand in labor. Anyone done this before or know any respectable non dealer land rover garages around the bay area?
Thanks
Jack
 

Will Tillery (Will)
Senior Member
Username: Will

Post Number: 269
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Thursday, January 08, 2004 - 06:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

This is a very timely procedure. With the kind of money involved its hard not to think about replacement all together.
 

Ron Brown (Ron)
Senior Member
Username: Ron

Post Number: 665
Registered: 04-2001
Posted on Thursday, January 08, 2004 - 06:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Odds are the majority if not all of the leak is from the cross seals. They can be replaced with the trans in situ. I would try them first. get the new rubber kind not the old cork kind.

Ron
 

Chris Browne (Chris_browne)
Senior Member
Username: Chris_browne

Post Number: 548
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Thursday, January 08, 2004 - 08:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Had mine done under warranty, and transmission was pulled.....they ended up busting the oil pump so I got a new or reman transmission....
 

Bill Bettridge (Billb)
Dweb Lounge Member
Username: Billb

Post Number: 1360
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Thursday, January 08, 2004 - 09:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Most of the rear main or cross seals leak - even after replacement. If it's not leaking badly - just leave it alone- or just do the cross seals like Ron mentioned.

Bill
 

Geoff 93 RRC (Geoff)
Member
Username: Geoff

Post Number: 193
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Thursday, January 08, 2004 - 09:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I third the cross seals. Gently stick a thin screwdriver up in there to hold the main seal in place as you torque down the rear main cap. Not sure if same with 4.0 but with 3.9 a thin layer of rtv where the main cap seats against the block at the top on either side of the crank helps too (I think shop manual says Hylomar).
 

Ron Brown (Ron)
Senior Member
Username: Ron

Post Number: 668
Registered: 04-2001
Posted on Thursday, January 08, 2004 - 11:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

The new cross seals are MUCH better, in the short time I was around with them, I saw no repeat repairs and no leaking seals on new trucks. I forget when they went in, very late 02 I think.
 

Geoff 93 RRC (Geoff)
Member
Username: Geoff

Post Number: 195
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Thursday, January 08, 2004 - 12:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Yeah I used the new cross seals. They have 2 ridges that form a sort of double seal. I still get some oil sweat after about 1000 mi, but then the rear seal has almost 120K mi on it, and it looks like its probably the pan seal again.
 

eric johnson (Eric2)
Member
Username: Eric2

Post Number: 207
Registered: 05-2003
Posted on Thursday, January 08, 2004 - 02:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

If you live in the S.F.Bay Area, join this e-mail group. Mendo_Recce. This is how :http://www.fourfold.org/mendo_recce/membership.html

Just say hi and ask your question, and you shall recieve. Oh Brother, will you recieve.
 

Brian Dickens (Bri)
Senior Member
Username: Bri

Post Number: 941
Registered: 08-2002
Posted on Friday, January 09, 2004 - 06:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

What Bill said.

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