| Author | Message | ||
     Jason McCombs (Jasonmc) Member Username: Jasonmc Post Number: 124 Registered: 06-2003 |
Ok this is always a fun topic for the Dwebers, and it is a topic as hotly contested as the kennedey assasination. But I'm gonna start it up again anyway. (and yes i have read through all of the archives on this topic) I have been running Amsoil 10w30 since o puurchased the rover. I have only run it for on interval. I have no idewa what the PO had used in it and judging from them they probably didnt know either. I thought it was a good idea to switch to Syc after reading a LOT of opinions on here and the recommendations of robinson services website. But now i am wondering if it is the right oil for me. i have been getting fluttering on accelleration and a little bit of lifter noise. so i am thinking maybe i need something less "slick" I'm gonna change the oil this weekend so let me have it. Lets hear the recommendations... Also i am gonna run some BG44k through her. should i do this before or after the oil change? and for reference sake i have a 96 D1 with 73k on it. predominatly a daily drver. | ||
| Phillip Perkinson (Rover4x4) Senior Member Username: Rover4x4 Post Number: 620 Registered: 02-2003 |
slick is good cept when breaking in a new motor. maybe you should get something with a higer viscosity? WHen i made the initial change to SYN i was told it was a good idea to change the filters every few hundred miles due to all the stuff the syn would "clean" outta your engine. i could tell that the filters were getting all that shit when i made the change. they were heavy even when drained over a day or two.... what octane fuel do you use? that may be related to your "flutter" uh...... I think Mobil and Amsoil are the best from what I understand and have read...... FWIW | ||
| Mark (Mrroverman) Member Username: Mrroverman Post Number: 84 Registered: 02-2003 |
i use Mobil 1 10w 30. | ||
| Jason McCombs (Jasonmc) Member Username: Jasonmc Post Number: 125 Registered: 06-2003 |
i only run chevron with techron premium. this may be a stupid question, but can you just change the oil filter without changing the oil? i mean won't the oil come pouring out of the filter socket? | ||
| Geoff 93 RRC (Geoff) Member Username: Geoff Post Number: 197 Registered: 11-2002 |
You can change the filter with the engine full of oil as long as the engine is not running. You will get the same drip as if you drained the crankcase. Check the level afterward as it should drop some. | ||
| Matt Anderson (Disco01) Member Username: Disco01 Post Number: 132 Registered: 10-2003 |
I use Penzoil dino 10w30 with Wix filter and change every 2500-3000 miles. I dont see any need for synthetic as long as I dont go past 3k. | ||
| Brian Dickens (Bri) Senior Member Username: Bri Post Number: 943 Registered: 08-2002 |
Here is something i started doing. Haven't tried it without draining the pan though. Drain the pan, pnuch a hole in the bottom of the filter, let the oil drain from there. After it is done take off the filter and there is not as big of a mess. This is a must on my diesel since the filter holds 2 quarts. | ||
| Brian Dickens (Bri) Senior Member Username: Bri Post Number: 944 Registered: 08-2002 |
Why change the filter when there is dirty oil in there it will just clog a new filter. | ||
| Leo (Leo_hallak) Member Username: Leo_hallak Post Number: 171 Registered: 02-2003 |
Thats what I was thinking Brian. But maybe he is talking about Synthetics that go technically 7500-10000 miles. I think Royal Purple says you only need to change oil on 10k miles and filters between. I just use normal oil and change at around 3k. -Leo | ||
| Phillip Perkinson (Rover4x4) Senior Member Username: Rover4x4 Post Number: 623 Registered: 02-2003 |
thats the whole point of a filter to get the dirty stuff out. Synthetic doesnt "wear out" at teh intervals the filter is being changed during the initial switch to the syn. All the sludge and buildup from the dyno oil theretically gets cleaned out by the syn. that why you have change the filter a few times cause it is full of the sludge out of the motor. the sludge hurts the filters performance thats the whole point of changing it | ||
| Jason McCombs (Jasonmc) Member Username: Jasonmc Post Number: 132 Registered: 06-2003 |
does the mobil 1 10w-30 have the right API rating? but for that matter what exactly is an API rating? and what is the right one for rovers? | ||
| DW (Dcw) New Member Username: Dcw Post Number: 4 Registered: 01-2004 |
>but for that matter what exactly is an API rating? and what is the right one for rovers?< Jason Might give this site a look. http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html | ||
| David Morin (Sporin) Member Username: Sporin Post Number: 122 Registered: 02-2003 |
I've used Amsoil gear oils in the past with my Toyota, in the diffs, the transmission and the tcase. I'll probably do the same to my "new" RRC this summer... switch them all over. For the engine (3.5 EFI) I prefer to run dino and change at more frequent intervals. My truck sees all the dirt and dust, so I'd rather just change it out more often. In my DD ('02 Mazda Protege5) I'll run Synth and change it every 10k. | ||
| DB (Dave_banicz) New Member Username: Dave_banicz Post Number: 26 Registered: 11-2003 |
I don't have my manual here today but doesn't it advise 7,500 mile oil changes? | ||
| Peter Matusov (Pmatusov) Senior Member Username: Pmatusov Post Number: 1220 Registered: 09-2002 |
my Disco would tell me that it needs an oil change by lifters' rattle in the morning. Usually, synthetic oil lasts for about 4-4.5 kmi. I have long since quit using dino oil - not because it's bad or something, but because you can't get it in 5W50 rating. It is pretty astounding - how quieter the engine runs while cold with fresh 5W50 synthetic in it. | ||
| Jason McCombs (Jasonmc) Member Username: Jasonmc Post Number: 133 Registered: 06-2003 |
peter, what brand of synth are you running? i just bought some mobil1 10w-30. i was gonna try that. but im wondering if my 96 would like a higher visc. i live in north. cali, in okland so the temperature range here isnt that big. so thats why i went with the 10w-30. | ||
| Peter Matusov (Pmatusov) Senior Member Username: Pmatusov Post Number: 1226 Registered: 09-2002 |
Jason, I'd love to use Mobil, but last time my friendly KMart only had Castrol. Actually, it was lighter-colored than Mobil I've used before. BTW, one-gallon can of 5W50 cost $18 at KMart, about $27 per complete 6-quart oil change. It is less than any of local oil change places charge for Maxwell House-quality stuff they put in your rig. I live in San Diego, so our temperature swings are even milder. However, when I took the Disco to Lake Tahoe (with 20W50 synthetic in it), it bitched about the oil for something like 5 minutes of idle after a cold night. So, I'll stay with 5W50 from now on. | ||
| Brian O'Connor (Hooky) Member Username: Hooky Post Number: 58 Registered: 09-2003 |
How's this, use new oil. Not the stuff you drained out of your ATV, or your other car you use when your Disco is in the shop, and yes use a new filter too. Mine has had dang near every kind through it (full fake, blends, cheap, spendy), and it hasn't seemed to make any difference. I did get great mileage w/ a fresh batch of slick50 though... |
