| Author | Message | ||
     SSV (Susannah) Senior Member Username: Susannah Post Number: 620 Registered: 06-2002 |
I had a chance to get the 'ol girl serviced yesterday while I was in VA Beach and after getting just the oil changed and tired rotated...the service mechanic noted four things for me: Front brake pads and rotors (the pads have less than 20K on them!) Rear brake pads and rotors Serpentine Belt TRANS COOLER LINE LEAKING...WHAT IS THIS? SHOULD I BE CONCERNED? Ok, so I did a search for trans cooler lines and found where someone replaced theirs on a 95 D1, but it doesn't sound like something I can do at home. Should I order new lines and have them replaced? Is this something to be very worried about? Thanks....I know the dealers always like to warn you about future needs, but for the most part my truck is bullet proof! | ||
| Peter J. Kelly (Pjkbrit) Member Username: Pjkbrit Post Number: 67 Registered: 05-2003 |
Replace them...they ain't that expensive but they can crack open at the transmission end of things and then you have a rapid leak and a real problem. More so on D2s so I've heard! Pads and rotors??? Maybe they are looking for the $600 """brake job""" that's oh so common in this great country!!! Get another opinion there. Serpentine belt...? Good for about 60000 miles. If it's showing wear/really shiny, replace it...also not expensive. | ||
| Alyssa Brown (Alyssa) Senior Member Username: Alyssa Post Number: 418 Registered: 01-2003 |
Susannah, brake wear depends on driving style. In PA, where we have state inspections, pads last between 9-18k miles. Rotors need changing every other time pads do. I don't know what your local laws are, but they very well could need changing. You DON'T have to get it done at the dealer. Buy your parts from nathan or similar & do them yourself or have someone local do them. You'll save major $$ that way. The serp belt is cheap & easy & sucks if it breaks. It takes maybe 10 minutes to change. It isn't good for 60k, it is replaced at 45k services. | ||
| SSV (Susannah) Senior Member Username: Susannah Post Number: 624 Registered: 06-2002 |
We do have state inspections here as well, and the ones on the truck when I bought it lasted a pretty long time, however, I do live in "the city of seven hills" and this truck is heavy. I had NO idea rotors needed to be changed that often. I'm definitely going to have to look into getting those. I do know someone who can do it here though. Serp belt is no problem. But I'm really worried about the trans cooler lines....I've been doing some reading...and I guess I will need a mechanic for that task! | ||
| Michael Noe (Noee) Senior Member Username: Noee Post Number: 831 Registered: 03-2002 |
Trans cooler lines are not that bad, at least on a D2. THe hardest part was getting the "quick-disconnect" loose on the cooler. We did, however, have a lift. Took about 30 minutes, including top off. | ||
| Alyssa Brown (Alyssa) Senior Member Username: Alyssa Post Number: 419 Registered: 01-2003 |
Ok... clarification. The state's mandates require a certain rotor thickness. By that guideline, on average, rotors need changing every other time pads do. | ||
| Matt Anderson (Disco01) Member Username: Disco01 Post Number: 142 Registered: 10-2003 |
Just curious, other than thickness, are there any other ways to tell if the rotors are needing replacing, I mean how thin is too thin. Matt | ||
| Brad Ashe (Vodkaman) Member Username: Vodkaman Post Number: 59 Registered: 10-2003 |
Matt do you feel a pulsing when you put your foot on the brakes at low speed when coming to a light? Does it pull to one side or the other? These would be some signs of bad rotors. Also buy the belt yourself and put the old one out back and carry as a spare you never know? If you look at your rotors and the have no score lines in them you might be able to do it the fast easy lazy way and slip the calipers off and slide in new pads. Pads are very cheap btw. People might come down about safty of not changing rotors out but just one idea. | ||
| Brian Dickens (Bri) Senior Member Username: Bri Post Number: 974 Registered: 08-2002 |
"Rotors need changing every other time pads do." Huh? This is the very first time I have heard this advice before. My '95 Disco has 98k miles and original rotors. So, I guess I would have to disagree with this statement. I guess that it sucks to live in a state that has bogus mandates. | ||
| Alyssa Brown (Alyssa) Senior Member Username: Alyssa Post Number: 420 Registered: 01-2003 |
Brian, I didn't say I AGREE with the mandate. I just said that's generally the way it works. Sometimes its every three times. 98k on the original rotors is a little much to expect, though! The DI rotors tend to hold out a little longer than the DII rotors, too, because they aren't vented like the DII's. | ||
| Tony Zuniga (Tony23007) Member Username: Tony23007 Post Number: 243 Registered: 05-2003 |
I agree with Brian, I would think it has everything to do with your driving style, some people like myself brake at the last possible minute therefore I need rotors more often than someone who does not. Changing it every other pads change sounds a bit too expensive to me!!! | ||
| Alyssa Brown (Alyssa) Senior Member Username: Alyssa Post Number: 422 Registered: 01-2003 |
Ooooh, that's dangerous in a Disco! What if your brakes fail??? Too late then! My car has so much drag I just take my foot off the gas and I almost come to a complete stop. I hardly use my brakes at all!  I'd rather err on the side of caution, though. I'd rather have more brakes than less brakes. It doesn't hurt to have a professional read on the actual thickness of your pads and rotors. AND, it's not like we're talking about a $2000 part here. | ||
| Brian Dickens (Bri) Senior Member Username: Bri Post Number: 977 Registered: 08-2002 |
I have had other vehicles last the lifetime of the vehicle without a rotor replacement. My vehicle is in a LR dealer at least 1-2 times per year for stuff I do not care to do. I always have them once over the vehicle and not once have they mentioned that I should have the rotors replaced. From what I have read and from my experience with brakes on my own vehicles, I believe that it is not good to wait to the last possible minute to brake since that could be dangerous, but in fact, I think it might be better for your brakes. Having your foot on the brake all the time or having it on the brake for a long, long time while coming to an extremely gradual stop is a sure way to overheat and toast the rotors. You want somewhere between these two braking ideas to maximize safety and rotor life. Someone please correct me if I am wrong on the 2 above paragraphs. So what if your brakes fail? There is nothing you can do if they fail, other than pull the e-brake, swerve or what have you. Fact is that I have never had my brakes fail. Always keep a close eye on pads, rotor wear and fluid. Rather one might ask the question what if you sneeze? | ||
| Alyssa Brown (Alyssa) Senior Member Username: Alyssa Post Number: 427 Registered: 01-2003 |
Actually, funny you mention that. Back when Freelanders weren't out yet, you could order them online, track their progress & be assured one of the first ones. I had a customer who was one of the very first orders. She had the 3rd Freelander our dealership delivered. The day after she picked it up, she sneezed, lost control, rear ended the car in front of her, then was rear ended by the car behind her. She was fine, but the car was SO new, that there weren't any parts available yet. She had to wait SO LONG to get it back! I've had my brakes fail on my Discovery. I want as much space as possible between me and the car in front of me. This isn't what happened in my case, but people are constantly asking about ABS faults. Those can cause inappropriate ABS activation that require longer stopping distances. If you do all highway miles, then no, you don't need to replace pads and rotors as much. You aren't stopping as much! We are in a very urban/suburban area, and it's all stop and go. The mileage I quoted is my personal experience with my customers or with our dealership's cars. "From what I have read and from my experience with brakes on my own vehicles, I believe that it is not good to wait to the last possible minute to brake since that could be dangerous, but in fact, I think it might be better for your brakes. Having your foot on the brake all the time or having it on the brake for a long, long time while coming to an extremely gradual stop is a sure way to overheat and toast the rotors. " I think you are 100% right about the above. | ||
| SSV (Susannah) Senior Member Username: Susannah Post Number: 625 Registered: 06-2002 |
Well, I do know that I need to replace the rear pads. When I bought the truck, the man that checked it out for me told me the brake pads all around were 50% and I've already replaced the front. I'll have those done soon. I'm not too sure if I need rotors though. I don't have any braking problems and the car never pulses or pulls like Brad asked. It's a little soft in the pedal (especially compared to the NEW Disco I drove) but that's it. I do mostly highway driving, when I actually get to drive my car, with the exception of MAR, a few offroad trips and various errand runs around town. I tend to think I'm pretty soft on the brakes too....I do what Alyssa does and let the car slow down before braking...if I have room/time to do so. I'm very good about downshifting when traversing the mountains and keeping my foot AWAY from the brake pedal. My husband is a really hard braker and we were comparing driving styles...but of course my truck weighs a lot more than his! I think I'll have a local person check them out. So, no one has mentioned the trans cooler lines being dangerous? Is this something that could really ruin my transmission if I don't have it done soon? Am I leaking •••••• fluid? I don't have any way to check b/c we have a dirt driveway.... | ||
| thom mathie (Muskyman) Senior Member Username: Muskyman Post Number: 546 Registered: 11-2002 |
Sus yes if the •••••• is leaking enough that the level becomes very low the fluid that is left will have to perform all the cooling. when the level is low the cooling can be greatly reduced and with auto trannies heat is the enemy! if your cooling line are leaking you should repair them as soon as possible. in the interim I would make sure to keep a eye on the level and top it off often to prevent problems | ||
| SSV (Susannah) Senior Member Username: Susannah Post Number: 650 Registered: 06-2002 |
Is this less of a problem in the winter than in summer....I ask b/c I really need to wait about a month for funds to do the repairs and my Disco is only driven on the weekends and for a few miles during the week....is sitting in the cold going ot be worse for this leak? I haven't gotten underneath lately to check and I haven't noticed much dripping...but.... | ||
| Richard Dekkard (Richard_dekkard) Member Username: Richard_dekkard Post Number: 141 Registered: 04-2003 |
"in the interim I would make sure to keep a eye on the level and top it off often to prevent problems" ... Good luck getting an eyeball on the transmission level..! Your going to need to use your finger.. Just go to jiffy lube and have them top it off , but definately fix the lines.. its easy, and anyone could do it.. New vented rotors are $100 each, and again, anyone could change those out really. Takes maybe 3 hours to do both sides if you do it slow. Dont be afraid to dig into your disco and get dirty, you might even have fun...!!! | ||
| Bill Bettridge (Billb) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Billb Post Number: 1393 Registered: 02-2002 |
Sus, Don't get too worked up about any of it just yet. You can check/fix all this stuff yourself! 1) Rotors - if still smooth and not scored badly - min thickness is 12-13mm (going from memory here - I'll check when I get home). You will need to measure this in the body of the rotor somewhere - not the edge. If it does need replacing - do them in pairs per axle (ie: front axle/rear axle). There have been numerous write ups on doing this. You'll also need atleast a hub oil oil seal too. 2. Pads - easy enough to change yourself in an hour or two - again, lots of write ups on pad changes. 3. Trans cooler lines - yes, most likely you can wait a week or two to do them. It is not difficult and is perfectly do-able in your driveway. Rover-Connection, Nathan, etc for the hose assemblies. As Thom said - just watch fluid level, probably not losing enough to hurt anything though. 4. Serpentine belt - again easy/cheap to replace. You can go to any autoparts store and buy a Dayco (#885K7) or Goodyear (#4070884). All it takes is a wrench and a few minutes. Pay close attention to routing of belt before removing the old one. Draw a diagram if necessary. Don't let anyone fool you into thinking this has to be doen at a dealer/shop if you feel teh least bit mechanically capable yourself. Bill |
