| Author | Message | ||
     Alan Vaughan (Avnz) New Member Username: Avnz Post Number: 1 Registered: 01-2004 |
1995 Disco V8 Auto ES. Towing 1.5 tonnes of boat is generally fine but pretty gutless on hills. Is there a natural upgrade path(s)? I have read about Powerchips and am undecided. If I went for a 4.6 block are there a whole lot of other changes that have to happen under the bonnet? Motor has 75,000 kms and is in good condition. I have had the cats out for 3 years and use a K&N air filter. Main muffler is an easier flowing model. Guess I really want more torque. Any ideas from simple up? Thanks. AV, New Zealand. | ||
| Geoff 93 RRC (Geoff) Member Username: Geoff Post Number: 205 Registered: 11-2002 |
4.6 or engine swap are your only real options for torque from my research. The 4.6 will bolt in. You 'll need a spacer for the longer crank nose to keep the crank bolt tight. The computer should be rechipped so that the mixture is not too lean for the additional displacement and the fuel map is right for the engine. The 4.6 makes more torque at low engine speeds than your engine does at peak. Alternatively you could buy a used 4.6 out of a RR. Bear in mind the zf 4hp22 is good only up to 340 Nm torque. The RR 4hp24 goes to 450 Nm but needs a computer. Check www.rpiv8.com for engine output and chip info. They also have a new special on shortblocks. I am pretty sure I am going to do a SBC swap for my '93 RRC. It looks easier than I thought. | ||
| Peter Carey (Peterca) New Member Username: Peterca Post Number: 34 Registered: 10-2003 |
You can also get a 2.8L diesel that, more or less, bolts in if you want some serious torque. But the cost is a lot more compared to the 4.6. pwc | ||
| Chris Browne (Chris_browne) Senior Member Username: Chris_browne Post Number: 573 Registered: 02-2003 |
Would be a ton easier to regear to say 4.1, or to swap in a 1.4 or 1.6 t box but that wrecks it for non towing duty, unless you plug bigger tires on and head for the outback.... | ||
| eric johnson (Eric2) Member Username: Eric2 Post Number: 223 Registered: 05-2003 |
Well, you could do what I am doing to my '90 3.9. Heads have over-size SS valves, Manganese-Bronze guides, 3 angle grind on valves and seats, bowl work- transition from seat to port. Isky cam .450 lift intake/exhaust - (forgot the duration numbers), upgraded timing chain. 3.9 +.020 pistons, moly rings (not the stock cast iron) Balanced. Took out around a total of 120 grams off the rotating mass - rods, pistons and crank. Well, thats most of it. A bit over $4K U.S. Still not a 4.6, but ought to be nice. Real nice. Choosing the right cam is a real art, You HAVE to be hooked up with someone who knows what they are talking about. Not some goof down at Pep Boys. Go to the best engine/head shop you can find. Ask around. They're out there. | ||
| eduardo (Jmonsrvr) Member Username: Jmonsrvr Post Number: 65 Registered: 07-2003 |
peter carey? is this peter who hooked me up with the RR shop manual? if so hope you are doing well and thanks again, eduardo | ||
| Mike M (Rangeroverhp) Member Username: Rangeroverhp Post Number: 177 Registered: 09-2003 |
Go 4.6. There's no substitute. Except maybe a 4.8-5.2. If your intersted in an afordable 4.6 set up, let me know. | ||
| eric johnson (Eric2) Member Username: Eric2 Post Number: 227 Registered: 05-2003 |
Mike, Details on your setup? Thanks |
