| Author | Message | ||
     Federico (Fed) New Member Username: Fed Post Number: 1 Registered: 01-2004 |
I have a couple of questions before I change my fuel filter (for first time): 1. I bought a cooper brand filter instead of the genuine by mistake, any major differrence? 2. I can't find the multiport fuel injection relays to depressurize the fuel system-manual says in RH footwell but couldn't find them-I have a 96 D1. 3. Is depressurizing the fuel system really necessary if the hoses are clamped at either end of the filter? Thanks in advance | ||
| Joey (Joey4420) Senior Member Username: Joey4420 Post Number: 529 Registered: 04-2003 |
Brand shouldn't make a difference. Depressurizing is not a requirement, it just keeps the mess down. You should find a shreader vavle on the passenger side (NAS) of the engine on the fuel rail, this will depressurize the fuel system. If you have never changed it before be prepared for some fun if it has rusted at all. | ||
| Will Tillery (Will) Senior Member Username: Will Post Number: 309 Registered: 11-2002 |
Joey is on the money. I would shoot both ends of the filter with some PB Blaster a few hours before your removal. Should make things a lot easier. | ||
| Federico (Fed) New Member Username: Fed Post Number: 2 Registered: 01-2004 |
Thanks for the help! | ||
| Tony Zuniga (Tony23007) Senior Member Username: Tony23007 Post Number: 261 Registered: 05-2003 |
If your in doubt take it to one of those Quick Lube Oil places and watch how they change the unit. It's pretty easy and it helps if you have the right tools (Clamps). I had someone changed mine the first time, than did it myself the second time. Have a good size rag to soak up the excess gas and drive your truck almost empty or as low as you feel comfortable before you start, the less gas you have in your car the less you can spill. | ||
| Wei Quek (Apohis) On Probation Username: Apohis Post Number: 40 Registered: 04-2003 |
I recently changed mine for the first time (30 minutes). It was very easy. This was what I did. 1) Start the car and let it run 2) Pull the fuse for the fuel pump (15A) beside the battery. 3) Removed the gas cap to depressurize tank. Screw the cap back on. 4) Spray WD 40 on the ends of the filter. 5) Remove wheels. 6) Using wrenches, loosen the fittings at the ends of the filter. I balanced a metal paint tray on the radius arm to catch the fluid. Some will squirt out. 7) Once filter is removed, then loosen the clamp. 8) Replace with new filter but note the direction of the fuel flow. 9) Start the car and check for leaks. 10) Miller time. I think the filter on the truck was an AC Delco. I bought the Wix/NAPA one. A search on this board will also show that an extensive vocabulary of Serbian swear words might help. Fortunately, I didn't need it. | ||
| Brent (Silly_me) Member Username: Silly_me Post Number: 115 Registered: 07-2003 |
Don't clamp your fuel line. The last thing you want to do is deform and weaken them. If you are worried about spillage, take an unpainted golf tee and stuff it into the hose. | ||
| Federico (Fed) New Member Username: Fed Post Number: 4 Registered: 01-2004 |
After the fuel system is depressurized, using the shreader valve, how easy is it to start back up? I'm assuming it might take a bit longer but is there anything alse that needs to be done before starting, or will it pressurize itself via the fuel pump? Thanks again for all the help. | ||
| Wei Quek (Apohis) On Probation Username: Apohis Post Number: 41 Registered: 04-2003 |
Sorry, if I wasn't making sense on the post. I don't recommend clamping the lines either. What I meant to say was to loosen and remove the fuel lines(fittings) from the filter before removing the filter from the "clamp-like" fastener that holds the filter onto the frame. This way, the filter doesn't turn while you reef on the fitting. |
