| Author |
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A C
| | Posted on Sunday, May 19, 2002 - 09:06 pm: | 
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Just got back from the great outdoors, and have an 'issue' with the Rover. I have a '90 Range Rover Classic SWB. It has 135,000 miles on it. The recognition of the 'problem' started trip before last.
We were running down an old creek bed that had plenty of small boulders and rocks in it. If the Rangie come up on a 'wall' type obstacle and put a lot of effort into crawling over it, we would hear a clackety, clack noise. Sometimes you would hear just one or two 'pops'. Didn't think much of it as we have often heard the suspension groan, creak and pop under load.
We went out this weekend and did some rock crawling. Again, coming up to 'wall' type obstacles, giving it some gas to begin the ascent for the front wheels to get up and over the obstacle, we would hear it make this clackety, clack noise. The harder the obstacle --and-- the longer the day wore on the more clackety, clacks you could add in a row. Going up a very steep hill with two deep ruts full of miry clay, the Rangie would really let loose with a lot of clackety clacks in constant succession at the top as it strained to clear the crest. Every now and then you would get a couple of good pops instead of the clackety clack noise. Again, it would not do it all the time, but it was getting more noticeable as the day wore on. Drove the Rangie to and from the site on the interstate at 65 - 70 mph with no noticeable problems or noise.
The noise is definitely coming from the front and not the rear. We can definitely see both front tires pulling (spinning). Our guess is either the differential or the cv joints.
(1) Any theories on what's wrong?
(2) Any logical way to sort out what's not wrong to determine what is wrong? |
isaac
| | Posted on Sunday, May 19, 2002 - 10:50 pm: |
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your guess is as good as mine 
someone who knows what they're talking about should post soon, but I would pull those CV's and have a look. My guess is that you've cracked the cage on one (or both), and with stress on the drivetrain the crack spreads and creates the noise you're hearing.
Probably wouldn't hurt to pull the diff cover on the front and have a look see at the ring-and-pinion. barring that, I would then pull the CV's and have a look. won't know really until you start tearing things down.
cheers,
isaac |
Ron
| | Posted on Monday, May 20, 2002 - 01:51 am: |
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Check the suspension first. get down there and shake everything. Also jump on the bumper to see if you can recreate it.
Ron |
Rob Davison (Pokerob)
| | Posted on Monday, May 20, 2002 - 10:27 am: |
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how loud is this ? is it barely audible? could it be cat's going bad? could it be a stone stuck in the Ebrake drum or something like that..
or is it the CV? since it's a RR classic with VC it would still go on the road. offroad it'd think it would be obvious once it's blown.
hmmm
rd |
Ali
| | Posted on Monday, May 20, 2002 - 11:29 am: |
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To check the VC: raise the front wheels, and try to turn the front driveshaft and it should turn with LOTS of effort and very slowly. Since your front wheels are turning, this isn't the problem.
If it was your diff, then you'd hear it all the time most likely.
But it does sound like a potential CV going south! Pull the left one out and inspect it first. Like Isaac said, your cage could be toast. If this is the case, you can use a Chrysler K car/minivan cage as a cheap replacement. Just take it to a driveshaft/CV shop and see if they can match it up. These CVs are very common! |
JB
| | Posted on Monday, May 20, 2002 - 01:25 pm: |
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Pull the front drive shaft and try to drive it. I think the rear diff is gone and your VC is just letting you haul ass in front wheel drive. When you were going up the nasty hill the VC sent some drive to the rear and you heard the clackety clack of the busted rear diff. On the hwy it would be quiet though. To test this idea all you have to do is remove the 8 bolts holding on the front drive shaft and go for a drive. - or drain the rear diff and feel for bits and pieces ( probably time anyway) Do tight turns to test for cv clackety clackety |
A C
| | Posted on Monday, May 20, 2002 - 08:50 pm: |
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So that I can learn (and maybe some others as well), what does CV stand for? What does a CV do and where is it on the truck? Does VC stand for Viscous Coupling? Where is the VC and what does it do? I know that most guys on this site are pretty well versed, but for the rest of us it would help to have a bit of explanation. I know I would appreciate it.
With regards to the suspension (Ron), it has all been previously replaced within the last year to year-and-one-half. It has Old Man Emu's heavies springs and shocks all the way around. As for recreating the noise by jumping up and down on the bumper, that won't do it. It has to be under stress (i.e.; rock crawling something significant).
How loud is it? (Rob D) Very. We have video of the Rangie having a go at a very steep ascent in deep clay ruts and you can hear the clackety clack screaming. The occasional pops are loud as well. It's not the cats (catalytic converters) since it does not have any. (Oh the shame of it.)
As for the ideas on how to test the various issues, I'll get on that and let you know what I find. Thanks for all the help so far. |
L.H.
| | Posted on Monday, May 20, 2002 - 10:34 pm: |
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Check the two motor mounts, very good possiblitiy that you could have one or two the have seperated allowing the engine to litirally bounce up and down! Had the same problem with a friend of mine's Range Rover last week!!
L.H. |
Randall Smith
| | Posted on Monday, May 20, 2002 - 11:00 pm: |
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A C
Obviously tou need to find a mechanic. Something is wrong with your drivetrain, and it needs to be fixed before more damage is done.
The Viscous Coupling is an automatic locking devise in the front of your transfer case(high range/low range gear box). The VC will lock up and drive your truck if one of the axles break(two wheel drive though).
The Constant Velocity joint is located inside of those chrome balls on your front axle. The CV is like a huge ball-joint on the axles which allow the front wheels to steer. The rear axles are just a one piece steel shaft.
Randall |
Kyle
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 21, 2002 - 12:01 pm: |
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Motor mount
Kyle |
Rob Davison (Pokerob)
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 21, 2002 - 12:17 pm: |
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LOL , damn kyle i think you are right again.
busted motor mount and when you give it all kinds of gas the engine is rocking to the side and moving the fanblades into the plastic shroud?
i've seen this happen... |
Ron A
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 21, 2002 - 01:04 pm: |
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I'd bet motor mount also..
If you do need to change the mounts, use the ones for a disco. They're a slightly larger diameter(12 instead of 10) so you need to open up the slot and the mounting hole but it's worth the trouble.
Ron A |
doug james (Dgj95lwb)
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 21, 2002 - 03:42 pm: |
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Good call Kyle.....
When all else fails re-read the orig post...:'series of clackety, cla..... |
A C Donahue
| | Posted on Thursday, May 30, 2002 - 10:29 pm: |
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**** UPDATE **** UPDATE ***** UPDATE *****
Well, I read your advice and slid my fingers under the fan shroud (with the engine off, of course) to see if I could feel a groove. Sure enough, a groove existed where the blades had been hitting and cutting into the fan shroud. I took the truck to a local mechanic to see if the engine mounts were shot. They were not. The fan shroud IS, however, shot. Last year one of the fan blades broke off and shot through the top and bottom of the fan shroud. It cracked it up a bit and ripped some pieces off, but thought nothing more of it. The "clackety, clack" noise just started recently and has been getting progressively worse. After closer inspection, we found that the fan shroud is now being held on by only two bolts and basically is flopping around. Add to this the fact that, overall, it looks shot. So, a fan shroud is on order and we'll see where we go from there. If this is it -- and it is not a differential, axel, cv joints, etc. -- bunch of money saved. I'll keep you all updated. Again, I truly appreciate each and every suggestion. Thanks. |
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