Author |
Message |
   
A C
| Posted on Sunday, May 19, 2002 - 09:18 pm: |
|
I have a '90 Range Rover SWB with 135,000 miles on it. Probably loosing the front diff. (See "Clackety, Clack. Don't Come Back"). So, one suggestion given to me in the field was to take the differential from the rear and put it in the front and 'really' set up the rear. Here is my question . . . assuming that I had the money necessary to set-up BOTH the front --AND-- rear axels to serious upgrades, what should I use for this vehicle? Tru-Trac diff in the front and a Detroit in the rear? 10 spline or 24 spline axels? Lockers or no lockers? What brands? What will it cost for the front set-up and the rear set-up? Who should I order the stuff from? Keep in mind that I live in an area where there are NO reliable mechanics. Most 'folk' around here call my Rangie a "Land CRUISER". So, whatever I go with needs to be pretty easy to install or I need to take the truck to where it can be professionally installed by someone that knows what they are doing. For your further info, I live in south-central Kentucky. Finally, it would help me to understand what some of these things do (i.e.; like the lockers) to better know what I ultimately need. |
   
PerroneFord
| Posted on Sunday, May 19, 2002 - 10:30 pm: |
|
Oh man, Did you check the archives? Lockers get talked about only second to tires and oxygen sensors. I'm not going to tell you what to buy because a lot of that is up to you. However, there are a few guidelines you may want to take into account. 1. Lockers and limited slips place more strain on axles, so getting rid of the 10 spline axles should be considered mandatory. Yes there are people running lockers and 10 splines, but ask them how many they have broken. 2. If you really don't understand what lockers do, you shouldn't install them. Fundamentally lockers force both wheels to turn at the same rate. This means if one wheel is in the mud or snow or in the air, and the other is on solid ground, you keep going. Limited slips work similarly but are not as effective in extreme situations. A real explanation takes longer but there are dozens of explanations in the archives. 3. Installing a Detroit locker in the back and a TruTrac limited slip in the front is as simple as it gets. There is nothing to turn on and off and you have maximum traction 24/7. With ARBs and other selectable lockers, you only have lockers when you want them. Both types have their advantages. 4. Detroit locker is about $500. A trutrac is about $425. An ARB is about $650. Setup fees are about $200 for the TruTrac or Detroit, $300 for the ARB depending on where you are. I ordered my setup from Great Basin Rovers. I got a fair price, an excellent setup, and bolt-in simplicity. Like you, I had no one near me to set them up which is why I did the deal with Great Basin. I also got axles from them. Good luck, -P |
   
isaac
| Posted on Sunday, May 19, 2002 - 11:02 pm: |
|
you mean you have money left over for upgrades after the maintenance expenses?!?? my wet-dream setup for the diffs is to put in a 10-spline trutrac front, and 24-spline trutrac rear on stock late-model axles. very stealth . . . and very capable as flexy as these trucks are, even in stock form. ahh - some day! cheers, isaac |
   
Ron
| Posted on Monday, May 20, 2002 - 01:49 am: |
|
As a 90 with ABS you can "bolt in" 24 spline axles. do not buy anything 10 spline Diff set up is diff set up. Personally I would trust a redneck rear end shop over the average LR master tech to do my diff set up. A rover diff is WAY easier than a dana to set up. Tell them it is a funky old ford 9in or 50s chevy corporate axle and they won't gouge you. Ron |
   
JB
| Posted on Monday, May 20, 2002 - 03:13 pm: |
|
24 spline axles need 24 spline diffs. His is a 1990 classic which came with 10 spline diffs. If the diff is bad, upgrade that diff to 24 spline either locker or regular diff and then get the 24 spline axle shafts. Diffs are interchangeable from front to back. Put a locker in the rear and the good 10 spline up front. Get 24 spline for rear and get 24 spline axles/ hub flanges. |
|