| Author | Message | ||
     Brendan Kearns (Howboucha) Member Username: Howboucha Post Number: 202 Registered: 01-2003 |
Our (jennifer's) 98 LE is ticking. It was apparent when we bought it about 3 months ago, but now it is progressivly louder. I spent about a half hour trying to locate the sound, but as we all know sound does travel and is hard to pinpoint in an engine area. The tick is like this: tick tick tick tick tick at idle (just about the same speed as what you would be reading it) and of course speeds up when the engine RPM's are increased. I immediately thought a valve was sticking so I dumped a bottle of Chevron Techron in the tank. After a 30 mile drive home tonight at highway speeds, no difference. Now when we bought it, the tick would go away after it warmed up, now it is here to stay. Any thoughts on what this could be? The 4.0 has about 90K on it. I need to add that for some reason the 98 is much more powerfull and quicker than the XD. I appreciate any input. Thanks, B.K. | ||
| Phillip Perkinson (Rover4x4) Senior Member Username: Rover4x4 Post Number: 649 Registered: 02-2003 |
check the oil? when was last replace? | ||
| Phillip Perkinson (Rover4x4) Senior Member Username: Rover4x4 Post Number: 650 Registered: 02-2003 |
check the oil? when was last change? | ||
| Brendan Kearns (Howboucha) Member Username: Howboucha Post Number: 205 Registered: 01-2003 |
Thanks Phillip for your response. Good point. It was changed about 400 miles ago. Now it does look like it may have a bit too much (It's above the max line). Could this cause it to tick? My 95 was ticking and I added oil, then it went away. B.K. | ||
| Norm Orschnorschki (Norm) Member Username: Norm Post Number: 110 Registered: 02-2003 |
Ticking that goes away after it warms up is usually the hydraulic valve lifters, which is more or less normal. Ticking that gets worse as it warms up could be anything. See if you can isolate where the noise is coming from. This can be difficult but it helps if you can get a mechanic's stethescope to zero in on the noise. Also, check the oil pressure and compression. If you're lucky it might just be from the catalytic converters or a cracked exhaust manifold and not from the motor internals at all. Has the motor been overheated or run out of oil? If so, the noise could be almost anything internally. If you've lost oil pressure, you might get away with replacing the rocker arms or other upper valve gear. Worst case scenario is if the motor has been badly overheated. These aluminum blocks and heads don't tolerate overheating very well. Good luck!!! ---Norm | ||
| Brendan Kearns (Howboucha) Member Username: Howboucha Post Number: 206 Registered: 01-2003 |
Excellent thoughts Norm! There is a leak from where the Y-Pipe joins into the rest of the system (muffler end). Maybe that is causing it. I will try to tighten everything this weekend and see what comes. We bought this used so I am clueless as to it's history. Even worse, it was a repo and it's hard telling how it was taken care of. I will say it was incredibly clean and had no signs of any hard wheeling. B.K. | ||
| eric johnson (Eric2) Member Username: Eric2 Post Number: 229 Registered: 05-2003 |
If you look in the oil fill hole, is it clean or dark and gunky? Could be a lifter. Try running a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in with the oil, it 'may' disolve the gunk in the lifter, if thats what it is. There may be other additives that "Free Sticky Lifters", but I don't know what they are. Different garages have different tricks, call around. I've also heard of running diesel in with the oil...I wouldn't do that one. Some ticking noises are caused by loose exhaust manifold bolts. The exhaust gases escape thru the very small gap and make a ticking sound. | ||
| andrew adia (Drew) Member Username: Drew Post Number: 64 Registered: 03-2003 |
Had loose bolts where the headers join the block and where the headers join the y pipe, causing an exhaust leak. After tighting the bolts ticking went away. Drew | ||
| Sheldon Charron (Rifleman) On Probation Username: Rifleman Post Number: 56 Registered: 01-2004 |
I know exactly what it is. Karma. | ||
| Sheldon Charron (Rifleman) On Probation Username: Rifleman Post Number: 57 Registered: 01-2004 |
Oops, I forgot. Probation, probation...  | ||
| Phillip Perkinson (Rover4x4) Senior Member Username: Rover4x4 Post Number: 653 Registered: 02-2003 |
long live the discoweb | ||
| Bill Bettridge (Billb) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Billb Post Number: 1411 Registered: 02-2002 |
Drew has a good point - check for exhaust manifold leak or leak at collector (3 bolt flange) Bill | ||
| Brendan Kearns (Howboucha) Member Username: Howboucha Post Number: 207 Registered: 01-2003 |
Sheldon, do not reply to my threads. I am looking for information to a situation, not blabbering crap from you. BTW My Karma is just fine. | ||
| Steve McDonald (Smcdonald) New Member Username: Smcdonald Post Number: 1 Registered: 01-2004 |
We bought this used so I am clueless as to it's history. Contact your local dealer and give them the vin number. they should be able to pull the service history for you. i was able to pull some info for a freind who was considering a used purchase. at least you will have some info as opposed to what you have now. if you are unsucsessful contact me and I may be able to help | ||
| Brendan Kearns (Howboucha) Member Username: Howboucha Post Number: 208 Registered: 01-2003 |
Howboucha Steve! Great point. I will do so tomorrow. B.K. | ||
| Brian J. Rohan (Rover_wannabe) Member Username: Rover_wannabe Post Number: 86 Registered: 09-2002 |
I also have had a ticking, and it was the driver's side Y joint. It is now back so I will use more force to tighten the bolt. I hate having the thing sound like an old Chevy | ||
| Jaime Crusellas (Jaime) Member Username: Jaime Post Number: 198 Registered: 05-2003 |
I had a ticking in my D1 (over 105k miles) and what I thought was just noisy valve train. I put in a pint of Lucas oil stabilizer at the next oil change, and the noise quieted right down. | ||
| Ron Boston (Rbostoncadisco) New Member Username: Rbostoncadisco Post Number: 20 Registered: 12-2003 |
Ditto w/checking vin# with dealer. Could be crack in your exhaust manifold! My 98 LE was making infreq ticking noise. Thought it was normal (being new to Disco) but when I started checking out other Discos (no noise - leaks yes), made me look closer and found hairline crack on the passenger side exh manifold. See pic. Don't have photo of old manifold but attached is the new one, and where I found the crack. A Dweb user pointed me to a recall exp on his 98 (recall B112), dealer plugged vin #, showed my 98 Disco was part of the recall and 2 days later, new manifold. Have not heard the ticking sound since.  | ||
| Brian Baker (Doubleb) Member Username: Doubleb Post Number: 53 Registered: 02-2002 |
I'd check for a cracked header first. Both of mine have been replaced 97 lse. Tick tick tick was the exact noise I had for 40000 miles until it got to loud to bare. | ||
| Brendan Kearns (Howboucha) Member Username: Howboucha Post Number: 210 Registered: 01-2003 |
I looked at the header last night. I used a light and placed it around the headers to see if any exhaust was seeping out. I couldn't see anything. Is this a good way to inspect it? | ||
| Brian Baker (Doubleb) Member Username: Doubleb Post Number: 55 Registered: 02-2002 |
The crack in mine was hard to see it was on the bottom of header and I never saw any exhaust coming out of it but my engine burns clean. It was a hair line fracture. So get alittle dirty and crawl around the engine compartment. | ||
| David Huddleson (Dhuddleson) New Member Username: Dhuddleson Post Number: 14 Registered: 09-2003 |
I have a 98 LE (72K miles) and also have what could be called a "ticking" or better described as a "light tapping" or knocking. Exhaust all checks out, and noise does not seem to come from any components like manifolds, Y-pipe, cats etc. Mechanics at dealership listened to it, and quickly suggested rocker shafts. Seemed a good diagnosis as the sound seems most prominent from top of LHS rocker cover towards the back of the engine. I can in fact hear this light knocking ALL OVER the engine, even from underneath. But as I said, it seems most obvious from up top... I did replace the LHS rocker shaft complete, and it made NO DIFFERENCE AT ALL! When engine is started from cold, you CANNOT hear any of this knocking sound until the engine is fully warmed up, then the light knocking starts to appear. It never goes away after that... (well, until you stop the engine!) Oil is changed regularly, and seems quite clean. Internal of motor (rocker cover) looks decent. Performance is fine, ecomomy is normal, no stumbles etc... no Check Engine Light! That's why this is so puzzling. People I trust for experience with engines state that it does not sound like an "engine speed" noise, so therefore I assume they mean it is likely camshaft-related/lifters/valves/etc. So, for 6 months I have been living with this, and it does not seem to get worse. But it bugs me that I cannot pinpoint the fault. | ||
| Brian Baker (Doubleb) Member Username: Doubleb Post Number: 60 Registered: 02-2002 |
David, Sometimes the ticking noise can be caused by crappy gas. Try chevron or bp fuel for a month or two and see if that is the problem 91 or higher octane. | ||
| David Huddleson (Dhuddleson) New Member Username: Dhuddleson Post Number: 16 Registered: 09-2003 |
I'm always running at least 91 octane, and splurge on Sunoco 93 maybe once a month. Hasn't made any difference. It's easy to see if things are "normal"... if I am ajacent to a good solid wall, I open the driver's window and listen to that "knock-knock-knock" and I know the engine is still there!!! | ||
| Brian Baker (Doubleb) Member Username: Doubleb Post Number: 62 Registered: 02-2002 |
Is the knocking a constant knock or does it go up and down with engine rev's. If it does I call that engine speed noise, up and down with engine rev's. | ||
| Robert Pate (Racerx) Member Username: Racerx Post Number: 68 Registered: 08-2003 |
Brendan I had the same thing. Mine was the gasket between the exhaust Man and the Y pipe. Droped the Y pipe and replaced the gaskets now it purrs like a kitten. | ||
| David Huddleson (Dhuddleson) New Member Username: Dhuddleson Post Number: 17 Registered: 09-2003 |
The knocking sound on mine does move up and down with RPM, but as I tried to imply above, the sound "speed" was explained to me as "not engine speed", which implies camshaft-speed (ie. 1/2 the speed of the crankshaft... the determination/distinction helps to lead us to the areas for investigation! | ||
| Brian Baker (Doubleb) Member Username: Doubleb Post Number: 63 Registered: 02-2002 |
I'm just a backyard mechanic that does not know some professional terminology, but I've managed to fix every problem I've had with my rover without the use of computer diagnostic equipment. Just some help from friends and Dweb. I don't mean to belittle or offend. | ||
| flyor (Flyor) New Member Username: Flyor Post Number: 39 Registered: 05-2003 |
As stated by the prevoius posters the noise could be exhaust related. Until last week every one I have seen has been a crack at the flange where the three nuts are. Take the Y-pipe off, weld it up and you were all set. Last week I found my left side manifold was cracked between #5 and #7 cylinders. 98 Disco 4.0L. It was very difficult to see with the manifold installed. I can't hear very well but could hear the tick on cold start up and under heavy load. I removed the manifold and had it brazed up. I haven't checked to see if it would have been covered under the recall yet. David do you still have the old rocker shaft assyembly? Look carefully at the steel inserts where the push rods go, there are steel inserts that sometimes gall or rotate freely causing a noise. If there are noise signs of this you may have replaced the assy. unesassarily | ||
| Brendan Kearns (Howboucha) Member Username: Howboucha Post Number: 211 Registered: 01-2003 |
This is a perfect example of why D-Web is such a great site. The tapping frequency speeds up (Same db level) when the engine is "sped up". I can see exhuast seeping out of the area where the Y pipe connects to the muffler. I will try that first. We only put in the highest octane we can get. It jumps from 89 to 92 or 93 in our area (at the tune of $1.79 a gallon (spent $130.00 for fuel in the last 7 days, sucks) I will be calling LR (Indy) tomorrow with the vin to see if it is part of the recall. This will be a good opportunity to for me to find out why our LE is a Special Vehicles Division unit. Thanks again for the input. | ||
| Tony Zuniga (Tony23007) Senior Member Username: Tony23007 Post Number: 262 Registered: 05-2003 |
Brendan, are you sure it's not your Serpentine Belt Pulley? This units usually go out and if you watch them when the engine is on they shake a bit and can cause a tick that increases with engine speed! just a thought.... | ||
| Brendan Kearns (Howboucha) Member Username: Howboucha Post Number: 213 Registered: 01-2003 |
I did check it out last night. It seemed okay but I will re-investigate. Thanks Tony, B.K. | ||
| David Huddleson (Dhuddleson) New Member Username: Dhuddleson Post Number: 19 Registered: 09-2003 |
Regarding the rocker shaft I removed, I did inspect it, especially after hearing the "knocking" come back in about 5 minutes with the brand new shaft :-( It seemed perfectly good, so you are correct Flyor, there is likely nothing wrong with it... therefore good spares for my Triumph TR8! Brian, I wasn't trying to offend in any way in regards to the engine speed/camshaft speed. I was just trying to be more precise in what I had learned, as I think it (distinction of cam vs crank speed sounds) can help many problem determinations! Hey, we all learn something! | ||
| flyor (Flyor) New Member Username: Flyor Post Number: 40 Registered: 05-2003 |
David, if you need any work done at LR Indy see Tim the LR tech I can't remember his last name but he's been around awhile and is pretty sharp. He knows the vehicles as well as anybody. I went on a factory trip with him a few years back. Got to drive at Eastnor Castle that time. | ||
| Chris Eagleson (Chriseagleson) New Member Username: Chriseagleson Post Number: 17 Registered: 10-2003 |
My 97 was doing the same thing. I had my cats replaced for free. Very quiet now....just smells like shi!@. | ||
| flyor (Flyor) Member Username: Flyor Post Number: 41 Registered: 05-2003 |
I meant Brendan about Indy | ||
| Alan Yim (Alan) Senior Member Username: Alan Post Number: 1021 Registered: 09-2002 |
My 98 had a ticking in it much like how you described it Brendan. It turned out that my right exhaust manifold was cracked and needed to be replaced. Alyssa - I have a question for you. I replaced that right exhaust manifold at my cost. I later found out about the service bulletin/recall that folks here talked about. This problem was fixed about 2 years ago. Is there anyway that I could go back to the dealer with this service bulletin and have them reimburse me? From my point of view, that should have been something they fixed at their cost but this recall was never mentioned to me by them. Just wondering now that I'm talking about it. | ||
| Brendan Kearns (Howboucha) Member Username: Howboucha Post Number: 215 Registered: 01-2003 |
Called both the dealer and LR today. It looks like I am on my own if the manifold is cracked. Seems as if my 98 LE is not in the affected vin range for the recall. From all of your advice, and what LR says is extremely common, I will almost bet the trailer payment it is the manifold. LR Indy says the repair is to the tune of $550.00. Looks like I will do it my self with some elbow grease and a welder, or maybe some duct tape. | ||
| Robert Pate (Racerx) Member Username: Racerx Post Number: 71 Registered: 08-2003 |
Brendan just turn your radio up. | ||
| flyor (Flyor) Member Username: Flyor Post Number: 42 Registered: 05-2003 |
My local welding shop charged $25.00 to braze up the crack on my manifold. Cast iron is more difficult to braze because it has to be preheated. They clamped it to a straight edge, simulating the cylinder head then heated it up on a stove designed for the purpose. Once at temp they brazed it then let it cool down by slowly reducing the tempature on the stove. He told me that he has never seen one of his braze jobs fail. For $25.00 I think I got a pretty good deal. Contact Prima Welding in Roseville Michigan. |
