| Author | Message | ||
     Jeremy J. Parkhouse (Jeremy) New Member Username: Jeremy Post Number: 38 Registered: 02-2003 |
Takes me ages but today I have been having a pre-install look under my vehicle checking I have everything in place to carry out an OME 3" lift using 1" spacers. One thing I noticed is the two bolts holding the rear spring lower seat would appear to screw into 'captive' nuts. What have people done in the past about these nuts. Cut them off and replaced them with new nuts or used the originals but obtained longer correct length and thread bolts? What size bolts are generally used? Does anyone know what thread and bolt size are used on the original bolts? I have some M10 x 60mm bolts I was going to use but this would mean cutting off 'captive' nuts. Any ideas? Thanks for any help Jeremy Parkhouse | ||
| Tarek Khalil (Pharaohdisco) New Member Username: Pharaohdisco Post Number: 11 Registered: 12-2003 |
They are not captive nuts, just ordinary nylock nuts. Once you install your rear spacers which are 4" in diameter they will rest on the original seat on the axle. Just align all holes and you will be able to use your M10x60mm bolts and a new set of nylock nuts. | ||
| Michael Noe (Noee) Senior Member Username: Noee Post Number: 845 Registered: 03-2002 |
Jeremy: Are you planning 762s in the rear with 1" spacers and N108 shocks? If so, be advised, you will possibly top those shocks out on very minor bumps offroad. Hell, I was topping out even on speed bumps. | ||
| Tarek Khalil (Pharaohdisco) New Member Username: Pharaohdisco Post Number: 12 Registered: 12-2003 |
Jeremy, I have an OME 3" lift on my D1 with 1" spacers in the rear and OME762 springs and N44 shocks, together with a pair of Scorpion Racing rear upper shock mounts which lower the upper shock mount by about 2 inches. This combination works fine and eleminates any problems with the shocks topping out. In the front I have used N73 shocks and OME764 springs. Good luck. | ||
| Jeremy J. Parkhouse (Jeremy) New Member Username: Jeremy Post Number: 39 Registered: 02-2003 |
Tarek, thats really strange because I actually undid one of the bolts on the lower rear spring seat and it was one of those crap bolts with a feed in thread (if you know what I mean!). The nut stayed in place on the seat while I examined the bolt? Michael, thats got me worried...after reading loads of stuff about this sort of set up I thought I would be OK? Yes I have 751's for front with N107 shocks and 762's + 1" spacer with N108 shocks for rear. Are you telling me this set-up won't work on a Series II,'02 model. Jeremy | ||
| Gerard Brooks (Wizard) Member Username: Wizard Post Number: 47 Registered: 11-2003 |
The nuts are captive.I dunno what the pitch of the thread is though. I cut mine off with a grinder and put in m10 x 60 stainless cap heads and a nyloc nut. cheers wizard | ||
| Steve Cooper (Scrover) Senior Member Username: Scrover Post Number: 668 Registered: 09-2002 |
They are captive on the DII, but not on DI or RRC. Tarek has '95 DIs. SC | ||
| Michael Noe (Noee) Senior Member Username: Noee Post Number: 847 Registered: 03-2002 |
Well, depends on what you mean by "work". Sure, it installs easy (no brake lines, ABS), the truck will be nice and level, you'll get a little more lift. But...in my case (99 D2 ACE), the 108s topped out way too easily on and off road. As soon as I figured it out, I had to really slow down from my normal slow driving. Never had a problem with the front, however. Honestly, I know an ACE truck has more drop than a sway-bar connected setup, but I can't say that this was the issue or not. HTH, Mike | ||
| Bazzle (Bazzle) Member Username: Bazzle Post Number: 87 Registered: 09-2003 |
With springs removed you can just run a drill through the captive nuts and use a normal bolt and nylock nut against old captive nut. Bazzle | ||
| John Lee (Johnlee) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Johnlee Post Number: 819 Registered: 03-2003 |
Jeremy, Your spring rear seats are held in place with two bolts on each seat. These are the M10 pattern. Just get four M10 bolts that are 50mm long. These work for sure with the 1" spacers. The factory bolts are the flange bolt pattern, but you don't have to use flange bolts. Just make sure your bolts are 50mm long and have M10 threads. The nuts that these M10 bolts thread into are welded to the axle. I suppose you could knock off these nuts with an air chisel or you could drill through the nuts. In my opinion, both options are vehicle butchery. Please don't do either to your Disco. M10 bolts are very easy to find. If you can't locate any M10 bolts in Saudi Arabia, just let me know and we can send you some. | ||
| Reid Walkenhorst (Runningmule) New Member Username: Runningmule Post Number: 27 Registered: 05-2003 |
I have a 2000 DII with 762's rear and EE 1" spacers. The kit came with new bolts. However, I think I am experiencing the same problem Mike had. I can't seem to get rid of a loud clunk whenever I go through a gutter, say for instance when turning left off the highway. I've checked and retightened the bolts on the spacers, my only conclusion is that the shocks must be bottoming out.? I can''t say for sure...but, before the spacers everything was smooth. I'd be interested in diff. shock recommendation if indeed that is the problem. This has been a frustration but I definitely like the stance with the 3" lift. Unfortunately, it's turned into the only Mod I kinda regret. | ||
| Bill Mallin (Billmallin) Member Username: Billmallin Post Number: 87 Registered: 09-2003 |
Interesting thread. I've got a 2001 Disco with an OME 3" lift too: 751 heavy-duty springs on the front and 781 medium-duty springs on the rear with EE 1" spacers. I also have N107 and N108 shocks. I have no problems at all--none of the things you guys are talking about. (And yes, I do take it off road.) I wonder if the issue is the difference between the 762s in the rear you guys are running and the 781s I'm running? ... just thinking out load... | ||
| John Lee (Johnlee) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Johnlee Post Number: 822 Registered: 03-2003 |
The N108's are designed for the 2" lift and are short for the 3" lift. Unfortunately, there is no other readily available shock that fits the D2 that is 1" longer than the N108 shocks. The Bilstein rears are even shorter than the N108's. Also, the D2 runs the brake hoses from the frame directly to the caliper and doesn't use a hard line from the third member the way the Disco1 did. Fitting a shock longer than the N108 causes its own problems. Things are tight already the way they are with N108's at full flex. Fitting a longer shock would necessitate extending the brake hoses and ABS wires. In my experience, the 781's lift an unladen Disco just as much or even more than the 762's do. It could be the 762's though. Perhaps the 762's cause the vehicle to "jump" more as the spring decompresses after a bump? I don't know for sure. | ||
| Michael Noe (Noee) Senior Member Username: Noee Post Number: 849 Registered: 03-2002 |
John's dead on about the considerations for going longer than the 108. I hadn't considered the "jump" factor, the 762 is firm; that also makes sense in conjunction with how the 108 is really designed for the 2" setup. For me, I wanted a true 3" and more drop and I was bothered by the topping out, though I think topping out is not necessarily bad on the shock if not at high speed. ABS and brake line extensions are easy, just a bit pricey. Bilstein options on a D2 with lift over 2" are somewhat limited (and expensive), especially if you want the HD valving (360/80). A 12" travel normal body shock will not fit in the rear. | ||
| Bill Mallin (Billmallin) Member Username: Billmallin Post Number: 89 Registered: 09-2003 |
The rear shocks are the limiting factor in travel for me too. The limiting effect of the shocks does prevent the stock brake lines and ABS wires from being exposed to excessive tension. Let's say I were to get longer brake lines and ABS extensions, what shocks would folks recommend to replace the N108s in the rear? That said, would it be worth it? | ||
| John Lee (Johnlee) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Johnlee Post Number: 823 Registered: 03-2003 |
No, it would not be worth it. What would a longer shock give you? More travel? More articulation? What would that gain you? Would it enhance trail performance, because "all four of my tires are still touching the ground, blah, blah, blah"? No. If you want more traction, get a traction diff or diffs. Tons of articulation isn't going to do it. A traction diff will give you more grip and it will be substantially stronger than the factory diff. If you get the right traction diffs, you can also get the added traction without hurting the reliability of your vehicle. You can also eliminate the wander caused by the loss of caster angle caused by your 3" lift. | ||
| Frank Rafka (Mongosd2) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Mongosd2 Post Number: 344 Registered: 02-2003 |
I'm with John on this...I'm running a 762/n108 in the rear and 751/n107 in the front, 285/75 Yoko MTR and don't have any problem wih traction or articulation. I'm now just starting to have issues with the lift, but that's after 50k of hard miles. Not sure where I'm going next, but the set-up I got from the boys at EE has served me very well...running TT's front and rear with 4.11 gears, keeping all four tires moving makes all the difference in the world...lot's of miles and lot's of trails... Frank | ||
| Jeremy J. Parkhouse (Jeremy) New Member Username: Jeremy Post Number: 40 Registered: 02-2003 |
Thanks for the feedback everyone. I think I will continue on with the 3" lift option and see how I find it. Luckily I have an almost endless supply of M10 nuts and bolts at the moment....we've just completed a mod program on one of the missile system transit containers, replacing these bolts with a different size. All I have had to do is extend the thread slightly! I do have a set of ABS extensions and extended brake line tucked away but I think I'll see how the 3" lift goes first. Cheers again everyone Jeremy (Dhahran, Saudi Arabia) | ||
| Bill Mallin (Billmallin) Member Username: Billmallin Post Number: 90 Registered: 09-2003 |
Cool. Thanks guys. | ||
| Kai Dussling (Kai) Member Username: Kai Post Number: 109 Registered: 06-2002 |
Reid, Your loud clunk more than likely isn't the shock bottoming out. I too have the 3" set up as Bill above and others have mentioned. Check to see if your radius-arm bolts are tight. I think I once read about these causing some noise if loose. Also, check to see if you have something loose (ie., shackles, tools, jack, etc.) in your cabin compartments or load space. You would be suprised how stuff gets airborn on small bumps and people sometimes overlook this. KD |
