| Author | Message | ||
     Jansen Young (Brucewee69) New Member Username: Brucewee69 Post Number: 10 Registered: 01-2004 |
My 95 with a 111k was purchased a couple weeks ago and recently the mechanic told me the engine is gunked up very bad due to improper oil changes in years past. Basically the mechanic told me anything I do now to the engine is basically patching it up and not fixing anything. His advice to me would be to spend 1500 to have the motor completely dissassembled, cleaned out and put back together. Is there anything else that is possible because sooner or later gunk will build up around the filter screen and cause my oil light to come on again. | ||
| Phillip Perkinson (Rover4x4) Senior Member Username: Rover4x4 Post Number: 658 Registered: 02-2003 |
i would drop the oil pan and scrape as much shit out as i could. maybe run some sea foam thru should help a little | ||
| Max Thomason (Lrmax) Senior Member Username: Lrmax Post Number: 286 Registered: 11-2002 |
Jansen, If you engine is that bad, you might want to look into getting a professional engine flush. It was mentioned a little while ago here on D-web by John Lee (I think!!??). He reported that it worked very well and his oil still looked brand new even after some time. I think you should look into this option. I think it would be able to complete the same task but be cheaper and quicker. Max T. | ||
| Ryan Roundy (Rrefxut) New Member Username: Rrefxut Post Number: 26 Registered: 12-2003 |
I've had problems with engine flushes in the past... they tend to clean the engine out well, but you loose lubrication for that five minutes they run the flush. I was shop manager at a service shop, and if an engine was gunked up, we'de recommend them, mainly because it was what we were paid to do, however; there were a few cases where it just caused more problems shortly after... On my own recently bought used rover I had this problem, flushed it simply because our supplier garenteed me results, a week later my oil pump died and i fried my engine. (the dummy light never came on, going to install a pressure guage with the new engine.) The supplier told me it was probably going out allready, so they were not at fault. I've seen way too many problems with this, gasket trouble right after, main bearing going out right after etc. If you can't afford to have it cleaned, I'de take it down as far as you are preppared to, clean what you can, then go nuts on the oil changes for the next while... Oil itself has cleansers in it which are effective as long as the oil is clean, and you don't loose lubricating power for any amount of time. Good luck but take care of it before you end up buying a new engine for your new rover like I just did. | ||
| eric johnson (Eric2) Member Username: Eric2 Post Number: 237 Registered: 05-2003 |
Ditto what Phil said. I had an engine with 165K that just got rebuilt. It was run on dino juice thru most of it's life, but not maintained very well. Prior to rebuilding, I dropped the pan to inspect the main and rod bearings. In the pan, there was about a 1/4" thick layer of gunkus. CLEAN THAT PAN! at the very least. I've "heard" of a guy that adds in a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil and runs that for a week prior to changing. Sounds like you need to go nuts on the oil changes, like Ryan said. | ||
| Phil (Discoanywhere) Member Username: Discoanywhere Post Number: 108 Registered: 06-2003 |
you could take off your valve covers and clean up in their as well... If you look into the hole where you fill your oil up and its black and chunky looking with a dry toasted scent thats no good but if its brownish and rusty thats ok.. I've used engine flushes in the past with sucess... I always add the flush to a full or near full motor that is cold. I only run the truck for 5-8 minutes with the flush mixture. After draining I fill up with clean oil (with same oil filter)run for another 5mins and drain again. I then refill change oil filter... and change again in some case under 1000k.. Seems to work for me so far.... | ||
| J. Carlos Zaragoza (Carlosz) New Member Username: Carlosz Post Number: 2 Registered: 01-2004 |
try using "BG" engine flush, my motor was nearly totaled by improper maintenance by its former owner, I installed lower bearings last summer and have been running "BG" flushes every oil change and there is a certain change in lubrication. !!! DO NOT USE OVER THE COUNTER FLUSHES THEY CLOG YOUR OIL GALLEYS.!!!!!!! BG does not. | ||
| Jeff Mclaird (Granitedisco) Member Username: Granitedisco Post Number: 185 Registered: 08-2003 |
Just my 10 cents worth - a looooong time ago I had a 72 Escort Mexico that was really gunked up since they are both OHV engines this procedure should be the same for the rover engine. Take this with a pinch of salt though since the car didn't cost me much at the time. But here was my remedy - 1) drain oil/pull oil filter 2) pull sump pan and get the bulk of the gunk out of it 3) pull rocker cover - again dig out the bulk of the crap - and remove rockers and pushrods 4) while the sump is off pull the oil pump and screen/pick-up pipe (take these to the side and wash in jizer (not sure what the equivalent is over here)) - while you are doing this also get to the valve gear and crank/journals and wash these in jizer/alternative5) return sump pan and rocker covers 6) the next operation will have the puritst gagging (don't look Ethel) - either neat Jizer/paraffin/gas down the oil fill 7) leave at least overnight - however bear in mind that some of these will corrode/melt valve seals so adjust depending on medium used 8) drain sump 9) remove sump and leave to air dry for at least an hour 10) prime oil pump before replacing - at the same time (steam engine fans will dig this) using a squirty oil can lube the journals/bearings at the crank - make sure you saturate them as much as possible 11) replace sump pan 12) replace rockers and pushrods at the same time use the squirty oil can to get the valve train 13) replace rocker cover 14) fill the bad boy with oil (no this doesn't have to be mobil 1 or anything special) 15) start - DO NOT GIVE IT ANY GAS - take your foot off the throttle and step away from the landy 16) it will sound 'tappety' for a few moments while it pumps oil into the system - but if you did enough DD with the squirty oil can it shouldn't take too long 17) leave it running for at least an hour - but I think I left it through almoust 3 18) drain oil - (this is the chicken entrail part) - while draining take a look at what the oil looks like - metal shavings ??? you maybe outta luck and you have to pay mr.engine rebuiler big bucks - if the oil comes out dark - replace oil and run for another few hours - if the oil comes out clear - replace with your oil of choice (don't forget oil filters in this sequence of events) And make sure you keep your service intervals  and don't skimp on oil afterwards HTH Jeff | ||
| thom mathie (Muskyman) Senior Member Username: Muskyman Post Number: 566 Registered: 11-2002 |
put 2 cans of BG44k in the oil and one bottle of a mechanical lubricant such as prolong in as well. then run the motor at idle for 15 to 20 mins.then change the oil. idle does not create the loads that driving does and the mechanical lubricant will protect the bearings while the solvent works. then run a high detergeant thin oil such as mobile 5/30. a thinner oil will allow way more junk to go into solution then a thick oil. if its a super high mileage motor drive it easy while you are running the thinner oil. running a soot buster oil such as rottella will also clean the motor, I have run it in my scout for a long long time and the oil always comes out almost as clean as it goes in. Thom | ||
| Jeff Mclaird (Granitedisco) Member Username: Granitedisco Post Number: 192 Registered: 08-2003 |
Sootbuster ? you mean a Diesel engine oil - which is what Rottella is - having said that if I get the chance to change to DERV before I do my road trip - I'm definitely going to do it. Diesel rocks ! Jeff | ||
| thom mathie (Muskyman) Senior Member Username: Muskyman Post Number: 568 Registered: 11-2002 |
well.... Rottella T is a multifuel fleet oil. says right on it. It has a huge detergeant package in it compared to most oils . the only oil I know that has more of a reputation for a clean running oil is pentosin but it is just so damn expensive...but so is a new motor | ||
| Geoff 93 RRC (Geoff) Member Username: Geoff Post Number: 223 Registered: 11-2002 |
Make sure you change the breathers also to scavenge the crankcase gases or they will build up and continue to crud up the engine. | ||
| Phil (Discoanywhere) Member Username: Discoanywhere Post Number: 112 Registered: 06-2003 |
excellent point Geoff!!! | ||
| Sheldon Charron (Rifleman) On Probation Username: Rifleman Post Number: 83 Registered: 01-2004 |
I made the mistake of getting my Ford Slicked before an oil change - against my better judgement. My truck started leaking oil from the rear main seal and LHS valve cover right after. I mean, I drove home and there was oil on my garage floor the next morning. I talked to them about it, and they said that if it was leaking, then it had problems before the cleaning. Whatever. For the cost of doing the rear main seal, I may as well get the motor rebuilt and get them to throw in a bigger cam at the same time! Fuckers... | ||
| Ron Brown (Ron) Senior Member Username: Ron Post Number: 680 Registered: 04-2001 |
If it runs fine leave it alone. If not you can run some solvent in it. BUy a lot of cheap oil and mix in a quart of something like diesel and let it idle for a while, then change, then repeat, a couple times will get a lot out, especially if you are change the oil HOT. Since the D90 flooded with gas the oil comes out spotlessly clean at 3000 miles, don't know what it was like before but its clean now. ROn Ron | ||
| Jansen Young (Brucewee69) New Member Username: Brucewee69 Post Number: 11 Registered: 01-2004 |
Thanks to everybody who put in helpful information. I am following up on these techniques as we speak. | ||
| eric johnson (Eric2) Member Username: Eric2 Post Number: 239 Registered: 05-2003 |
Results? Thanks you. |
