| Author | Message | ||
     David Statler (Falconx84) New Member Username: Falconx84 Post Number: 1 Registered: 02-2004 |
I was looking at something rather quick and easy for some mild wheeling in my 98 disco. It looks like tires and skidplates are going to be the answer. I was wondering if you guys had any recommendations on the type of tire I should get, along with steel rims. Also, what size will fit on the disco without trimming the fender? I want to keep it stock sprung and keep my stock set of rims, because I'm a college student and I can't afford it... my stock rims/tires are for travelling to school and back. I was looking at kumho MTs on www.tirerack.com I currently have kumho HTs as my reg tires, thanks. | ||
| David Statler (Falconx84) New Member Username: Falconx84 Post Number: 2 Registered: 02-2004 |
Speaking of tires -- My manual says not to rotate the tires, but I hear different schools of thought, any recommendations? Also, what is "cupping" in reference to tires? I've read several articles and reviews that mention it and I've never heard the term before. | ||
| Clif Ashley (Cta586) Senior Member Username: Cta586 Post Number: 505 Registered: 04-2002 |
Cupping is one form of uneven tire wear. Nato Steel Rims are nice. Wheeling tires, BFG MT, you can probably wear 245/75/16 no lift with a little trimming, or KVT fender moving method (see tech section) I rotate my tires, as I feel most people here do. I think there is more of an argument as to whether or not to rotate the spare with the four others than whether or not to rotate at all. Hope that helps. | ||
| Corey (Discobro) Senior Member Username: Discobro Post Number: 332 Registered: 12-2002 |
And if you are looking at adding a skid plate, as am I, I believe you have to relocate your steering dampener in order to add one. Someone please correct me if I am wrong because I personally would rather not relocate and just slap a skid plate on.... As for the differential guards, you can just direct mount them without alterations. | ||
| jan (Umsuja) New Member Username: Umsuja Post Number: 10 Registered: 01-2004 |
where to buy nato steel rims? | ||
| Corey (Discobro) Senior Member Username: Discobro Post Number: 333 Registered: 12-2002 |
Another thing you might want to look into is rock sliders. It really depends on what area you live in (rocky and arid or muddy and wet). I live in the Pac NW so I haven't a need for them yet. But if you happen to hit a rock or log or something on your underside door panels it will really screw them up. The only thing protecting them is that plastic piece that runs along the bottom of the doors. I think they are pretty reasonable price-wise and an easy DIY. | ||
| Chris Browne (Chris_browne) Senior Member Username: Chris_browne Post Number: 620 Registered: 02-2003 |
Corey: No need to relocate steering damper with the Southdown, and I bet most of the units out there in the marketplace | ||
| Jaime Crusellas (Jaime) Member Username: Jaime Post Number: 238 Registered: 05-2003 |
There are two types of front skidplates that I'm aware of. The most common is basically a slanted metal plate mounted right behind the front bumper and positioned low enough in front of the axle to protect the drag link. It does nothing for the track rod behind the axle or the D1 steering damper. The Southdown guard, attaches under the front axle and protects both drag link and track rod. Sounds great, except its one hell of a mud catcher that will lower your ground clearance and hinder your progress in mud. Another solution, is the Rovertym heavy duty replacement, and do without the guards. http://www.rovertym.com/steering.htm If your'e going in rocks though, protecting your diff is a wise investment | ||
| David Statler (Falconx84) New Member Username: Falconx84 Post Number: 4 Registered: 02-2004 |
Most of my wheeling will be in West Virgnia, maybe some here in Virginia whenever I can afford tires. The worst rocks I'll probably run into is shale, nothing too major (I hope). Logs may be a problem though, as many of the trails are old logging trails. With that info, any recomendations on tires or sizes? I think I asked earlier about the largest size that would fit, but perhaps it's better to ask the best size. Keep in mind that it's stock sprung and I'd rather not cut my fenders. I'm looking for a little more clearance and and better traction. Plus, it's a good 3 hr drive to my brother-in-law's cabin, then about an hr off-road. I can't let him show me up in a chevy this summer. Also, has anyone tried to make their own skid plates or bumpers? $800 for an ARB doesnt fit my budget  I found this link under tech http://www.discoweb.org/marty/custombumpers.htm but how difficult is it and what sort of prices would I be looking at? Thanks, Dave | ||
| Jack Leitch (Liveattheedge) Member Username: Liveattheedge Post Number: 129 Registered: 12-2003 |
rotate the tyres. I didn't, as someone also told me not to, and the inside of the front tyres are bald where the rest have a good 5K left on them. Cheers Jack | ||
| Victor (Vabiro) Member Username: Vabiro Post Number: 200 Registered: 10-2003 |
David, I'm very happy with my Yokohama Geolander AT+II in the stock size of 235/70-16. I have been in similar terrain to what you describe, as well as more rocky areas with mud common along the Canadian Shield in Ontario (See the "Back East" DVD from Discoweb). They were great for an AT, and one of the least expensive major brand AT TireRack.com had. Don't forget the differential protectors. The diffs are the lowest part of the truck and can take quite a beating. Another important item for even mild off-roading is front and rear recovery points. On the rear you could use a Receiver Shackle Bracket (https://www.expeditionexchange.com/superwinch/). On the front a Jate Ring (https://www.expeditionexchange.com/genuine/) would do the trick. Victor | ||
| trevor griffiths (Trevorgriffiths) Member Username: Trevorgriffiths Post Number: 224 Registered: 11-2002 |
David, I am in Baltimore and have a good group of Rover wheeling buddies. Let me know if you want to go to GW or someplace some time. | ||
| David Statler (Falconx84) New Member Username: Falconx84 Post Number: 5 Registered: 02-2004 |
I may have to take you up on that trevor -- "home" (ie, away from college) is outside of Martinsburg, WV, like 1-1.5 hrs from Baltimore. I'll be perfectly honest with you, I've never been wheelin' in the true sense. I've messed around a little off-road, (mostly farm and logging trails) and I've been in pickups with my redneck cousins doing crazy stuff, but that's about it. Which btw, he said he wouldn't be caught dead in my disco - I can't wait until I have to pull his ford out of a ditch ;) I noticed your profile says owner/mech of rover shop -- seems like a good friend to have | ||
| Ken Rountree (Krountre) New Member Username: Krountre Post Number: 13 Registered: 01-2004 |
Trevor, being a mechanic, can you answer something for me? Like David, I haven't done much off roading in my Disco (yet)and I'm still getting use to some differences from my old farm trucks. We've had about 3 inches of rain this week, so my son and I went to check on a pond dam on the farm and while making a turn in a rather slippery logging road, the D1 wanted to slide through the turn. On the way back I locked the CDL to see if that helped me with directional control, and it seemed to. Was this my imagination or is this one of the results of locking to F/R diffs together? | ||
| Dave Statler (Falconx84) New Member Username: Falconx84 Post Number: 15 Registered: 02-2004 |
I've messed around in the snow a lot. We got about 6" one time here in b-burg and I decided to take my D1 for a "spin" -- she slid a little, but not when I locked the diff. I tried everything I could to make it slide, to no avail (a good thing). I slammed on the brakes (abs deactivated) and jerked the wheel, gunned it, pulled the e-brake and jerked the wheel -- nothing. Needless to say, I was very satisfied with my disco's performance. W/o the diff locked, it would slide through some turns, but not nearly as much as other trucks I've driven. I'd say it wasn't your imagination, ken. One reminder -- if you're on a slick surface, it's a very good idea to lock your diff before you think you need it. Once you get stuck, it's almost impossible to lock. I found this out the hard way -- rather embarassing story, but I was going to climb a mini-snow bank in a parking lot, like maybe a foot high, packed. As soon as my rear tires hit the edge of the snow, I lost all traction and couldn't get my diff to lock, so I was effectively stuck. Even after repeated attempts to lock my diff, I still only had one wheel spinning on the front and one on the rear -- a sure sign that it wasn't locked, even tho the indicator light claimed it was. I later tried it with the diff locked, no problem. the difference is amazing -- I was hesitant to tell this story, but I'm sure everyone has an embarassing story to tell, and maybe something good will come of it. As long as you lock the diff, snowbanks can make for good parking spots at a crowded mall -- at least I'm not your average mallcrawling disco driver |
