| Author | Message | ||
     RAYMOND SANTOS (Mokie) Member Username: Mokie Post Number: 61 Registered: 09-2003 |
Just recently got my oil change at Jiffy Lube. The technician indicated that I am due for a "transmission flush". Are there any technicalities that I should be aware of when getting this type of a service? Can Jiffy Lube correctly perform this type of service? Thank in advance | ||
| Porter Mann (Porter) Member Username: Porter Post Number: 126 Registered: 05-2003 |
they stick a tube down the transmission dip stick, and while the vehicle is running, they go through all the gears. The tube is connected to a machine that sucks up all the fluid and replaces it with fresh stuff. Basically, it removes the stuff that normally would not come out in the torque converter during a normal change. To save money, just change the fluid yourself, drive it for a bit, and change the fluid again. Jiffy Lube and all the other oil changing companies always try to up-sell services since a simple oil change makes little profit. | ||
| Dave Smith (Javelinadave) Member Username: Javelinadave Post Number: 78 Registered: 07-2002 |
Raymond, I personally would not let Jiffy Lube touch anything on any of my vehicles. I have had friends that have had their vehicles brake system and power steering system ruined by a Jiffy Lube putting the wrong fluids in their cars, trucks, etc... If you use them, give them the fluids and filters you want replace and tell them not to touch anything else! Usualy, the corner garage will do an oil change for $10 with your stuff, Jiffy Lube knocks off $3 from there regular price. Flame away if like, it is just my own and my friends personal experience. Dave Smith www.JavelinaRacing.com | ||
| RAYMOND SANTOS (Mokie) Member Username: Mokie Post Number: 62 Registered: 09-2003 |
What parts/supplies do I need (i.e. filter, fluids,etc)? | ||
| Ryan Graham (Ryangraham) New Member Username: Ryangraham Post Number: 29 Registered: 01-2004 |
If you elect to get your transmission flushed you will only need new fluid. They will not be replacing your filter. The trans flushed I have seen actually tap into the cooler lines and flush from there. Personally, I think theyre nonsense. I have seen more transmissions hurt by these than helped. If you really want to get the extra quart of fluid out of the torque converter then just drop your fluid. Refill it to the proper level. Go for a drive. Then drop and fill it again. That should get rid of about 95% of your old fluid. | ||
| Porter Mann (Porter) Member Username: Porter Post Number: 127 Registered: 05-2003 |
Just a note - a transmission flush is not work that's involved in changing the transmission filter. The replacement of the filter requires dropping the crossmember which is a little bit more involved. As far as fluids go, I've used both AMSoil high temp transmission fluid and Redline high temp transmission fluid - both synthetic. Both have worked great for me in the past. The price for changing it with synthetic is still cheaper then if I went with Jiffylube with the generic junk they try to peddle. | ||
| RAYMOND SANTOS (Mokie) Member Username: Mokie Post Number: 63 Registered: 09-2003 |
Porter, Thanks for the info. I am finally convinced that I should flush my transmission fluid myself. If you don't mind, can you give me a brief direction and/or strategies that I can use to tackle this job. Also, do I need any special tools? Thanks again. Ray | ||
| Porter Mann (Porter) Member Username: Porter Post Number: 128 Registered: 05-2003 |
If you want to "flush", then I would recommend with a non-synthetic fluid first, drive around, and then replace with the synthetic (or regular if you wish). I'm at work so I don't remember exactly what is drained out and what is left in the torque converter (i.e. what you have to replenish) but if you do a search many people have posted the number - its something like 4.5 quarts. If you've changed your regular oil before, this procedure is even easier. When you crawl underneith, you'll see a plug that is pointed towards the ground. Ironically, in the manual (96), they show a picture of the transmission plug and label it as the drain plug. Anyhow, it is about 15 or so inches from the regular oil plug. If you want to replace the filter while you're at it, you'll need to get a rubber mallet, undo the bolts to the crossmember and wack at it to drop it. Simply undo the dozen plus bolts and the pan should drop. Replace the filter and the rubber gasket. Make sure that when you put the bolts back on, you do them evenly. Replace the crossmember, and bolt on. To refill, get a funnel - otherwise it gets frustrating. The transmission dip stick is on the driver's side near the fire wall. To check the fluid level, the engine should be warm. Start the car and let it warm up 1-2 minutes - check to make sure the fluid is between the dots. NOTE: The volume between the bottom dot and top dot is NOT 1 quart. Its less than that. | ||
| Steve Suitor (Pdxdisco) New Member Username: Pdxdisco Post Number: 1 Registered: 02-2004 |
I read somewhere that you can wash the transmission filter because it is made of metal mesh. Is this true? | ||
| RAYMOND SANTOS (Mokie) Member Username: Mokie Post Number: 64 Registered: 09-2003 |
Might sound dumb but, where do you put the new transmission fluid "in"? I read that you can clean the filter but use a degreaser to clean it off since it is a wire mesh. | ||
| Ken Rountree (Krountre) New Member Username: Krountre Post Number: 11 Registered: 01-2004 |
Raymond, it goes in the transmission dipstick tube, hence the need for the funnel. And on my '98, its on the passengers side. | ||
| RAYMOND SANTOS (Mokie) Member Username: Mokie Post Number: 65 Registered: 09-2003 |
That's what I thought. Thank you everybody for your advice. | ||
| flyor (Flyor) Member Username: Flyor Post Number: 56 Registered: 05-2003 |
Raymond, DO NOT LET ANYONE FROM JIFFY LUBE TOUCH YOUR TRANSMISSION! DO YOU HEAR US? If transmissions are unfamilar ground for you, spend the extra money to have a professional LR technician look at it. You will save money in the long run. If you want to die young you eat at McDonalds. If you want your rig to die young take it to Jiffy lube. | ||
| Bruce Potier (Brucep) Member Username: Brucep Post Number: 124 Registered: 06-2003 |
Ahhh, not really always that simple, drop the cross member only? Some will require you to drop the Y-pipes as well. Whatever, it's a job and don't expect to get done within an hour. The filter is enclosed within a metal case, so you will not be able to clean it. Toss it and replace it with a new one. | ||
| Dean Brown (Deanbrown3d) Senior Member Username: Deanbrown3d Post Number: 1430 Registered: 02-2002 |
Bruce - not true. The filter can be washed. The shop manual actually tells you to do this. | ||
| thom mathie (Muskyman) Senior Member Username: Muskyman Post Number: 594 Registered: 11-2002 |
yea but a new one and new gasket is $32 and only needs to be done made 5 to 6 times in the life of even the highest mile trucks. Replace  Thom | ||
| Nadim Samara (Discodino) Member Username: Discodino Post Number: 224 Registered: 02-2003 |
Just as easy as when you flush out after going to the toilet | ||
| RAYMOND SANTOS (Mokie) Member Username: Mokie Post Number: 66 Registered: 09-2003 |
10-4 that. No Jiffy Lube. But, if I just flush the fluid, refill with non-synthetic, drive, flush again, and refill with synthetic, I should be safe, right? So in essence, flushing the transmission fluid only) is not that technical right, or is it? What's a good non-synthetic transmission fluid (since it will be flush anyway) and what is an excellent synthetic transmission fluid? | ||
| Dean Brown (Deanbrown3d) Senior Member Username: Deanbrown3d Post Number: 1434 Registered: 02-2002 |
Raymond, If you are just draining the fluid from the drain plug, you can't get much out, maybe only one third of the total volume of liquid. | ||
| Matt Taylor (Whodatmatt) New Member Username: Whodatmatt Post Number: 10 Registered: 09-2003 |
Is it really that simple to access the filter? What about spreading the frame rails? | ||
| Tom V (Cozmo) Member Username: Cozmo Post Number: 210 Registered: 09-2002 |
Hey Matt is that you I keep seeing stuck in rush hour traffic on Airline in a lifted black DI | ||
| Porter Mann (Porter) Member Username: Porter Post Number: 130 Registered: 05-2003 |
I've always been partial to castrol fluids for non-synthetic. As for synthetic, the differences are minor in comparison to regular fluids. A lot of people like Moble 1 synthetic stuff, I personally like Redline and AMSoil. Its a little spendy and probably over the top but its the price I pay for peace of mind. You can't go wrong with any of those listed. | ||
| eric johnson (Eric2) Senior Member Username: Eric2 Post Number: 260 Registered: 05-2003 |
1) Amsoil 1A)Royal Purple 2)Redline 3)Mobil 1 | ||
| Matt Taylor (Whodatmatt) New Member Username: Whodatmatt Post Number: 11 Registered: 09-2003 |
Tom- Yep, that's me. Airline beats I-10 at 5:00. I see a rover coming up Cleary around the same time. That you? | ||
| Tom V (Cozmo) Member Username: Cozmo Post Number: 211 Registered: 09-2002 |
No, but if you see a white DII thats lifted and has a snorkel thats me. | ||
| Bruce Potier (Brucep) Member Username: Brucep Post Number: 126 Registered: 06-2003 |
Dean, sure would be interesting to know where in the manual it says you can wash your filter and reuse it. I could not find anywhere in my "rave" CD that specifies you can rinse and reuse. | ||
| Dean Brown (Deanbrown3d) Senior Member Username: Deanbrown3d Post Number: 1442 Registered: 02-2002 |
D2 page 44-47  Dean | ||
| Bazzle (Bazzle) Member Username: Bazzle Post Number: 96 Registered: 09-2003 |
They mean wipe the metal box. When changing fluid drop out from drain into a bucket. Refill with the exact same amount. Do this 3 times for nearly pure change. Bazzle | ||
| Dean Brown (Deanbrown3d) Senior Member Username: Deanbrown3d Post Number: 1443 Registered: 02-2002 |
Bazzle, Nope, they mean clean the filter. Imagine you have a stainless steel t-strainer, with oily crap and metal filings on it, inside a metal box. How is wiping the outside gonna do anything? Of course you need to rinse it with some kind of solvent to remove the crud, and if it looks like the gauze is fine then you can re-use it. And if refilling with the same amount as Bazzle suggests, check the level or fill it to the fill-plug (D2, which has no dipstick), doing the correct procedure. Here: http://www.discoweb.org/transmissiond2/index.htm | ||
| thom mathie (Muskyman) Senior Member Username: Muskyman Post Number: 603 Registered: 11-2002 |
Dean the reason why it says the filter can be cleaned is because rover always thinks people are in the middle of some god forsaken desert when working on there truck. ZF talks in there manual that the hot fluid moving through the filter carries metal particles and after time causes a magnetic charge that can cause clogging. REPLACE the hp22 and hp 24 take the same gasket and filter and many vehicles use them so getting them are simple and cheap Thom | ||
| Dean Brown (Deanbrown3d) Senior Member Username: Deanbrown3d Post Number: 1446 Registered: 02-2002 |
Magnetic charge on stainless steel? Ok I'm not arguing, I have a fairly new disco and when I changed the filter at 30K it was quite obviously clean, it looked like it was brand new, as did the fluid. So I guess it depends on what kinda age or crap you've been through. (And it was $72 for the filter and gaskets and o-rings, at the dealership). And the service manual is most definitely NOT written for lost desert wanderers! | ||
| Bruce Potier (Brucep) Member Username: Brucep Post Number: 128 Registered: 06-2003 |
Dean, now I know why I did not find that information, I was doing a search for the word ‘filter’, when the manual calls it an ‘oil screen’. Yes, the D1 manual states you can clean the oil screen with compressed air source. I know I read this when I changed my ‘oil screen’, but I must have decided the risk with cleaning and potentially dislodging particles that I could not verify were actually out of the filer, well to me it was not worth it, so I replaced mine. Since both filters look about the same, enclosed in a thin metal box, how you would be able to tell just how good of a job you have done? You cannot see but a portion of the screen while looking through the holes. I can’t think of a way to verify off the top of my head…hmmmmm, but more importantly, if you have parts availability, why in world pinch pennies on that? Seems to me for all of the trouble of getting to that damn filter, you would want to replace it, not just supposedly clean it with unverifiable results along with the risk of creating a larger issue of dislodging some roaming particles. I guess I don’t quite understand your point other than to correct my statement, which I do indeed stand corrected, so thanks. As with any thread, here is my view of a nugget- I certainly hope those contemplating a mere cleaning attempt of this filter weigh the consequences… $75 versus shop-time to diagnose your new issues and who knows the cost to repair those issues… BTW, I got to go with Thom, lots of stuff in these manuals address field-repair solutions versus part renewals. | ||
| thom mathie (Muskyman) Senior Member Username: Muskyman Post Number: 604 Registered: 11-2002 |
$30.64 Dean I believe they are refering to the mesh not the box?....but never the less I still say replace instead on clean. Thom |
