| Author | Message | ||
     Yureg Rolfedrev (Jrolfedrev) New Member Username: Jrolfedrev Post Number: 19 Registered: 12-2003 |
I just did a 3k oil change to my 94 Disco after replacing the short block, I decided to use a synthetic oil than the regular but is there ay significance? Synthetic oil is kinda pricey for a 7 liter Disco. Thanks. | ||
| Brian (Bthaxton) Member Username: Bthaxton Post Number: 68 Registered: 02-2003 |
Yureg, Here is the way I had it explained to me by a chemical engineer: Regular (i.e., standard refined) motor oil has a molecular structure that is slightly inconsistent for several reasons. For example, you might have ping-pong-ball-sized molecules, baseball-sized molecules, and soccer-ball-sized molecules all in the same oil. Again, there are various reasons for this. Because of this structure, only the largest molecules actually "come into contact" with other molecular structures (cylinder walls, etc) and reduce friction. The other smaller molecules simply float around and do nothing. Therefore, only a part of refined oil is actually protecting your engine ipso facto. With synthetic oil, the molecular structure is chemically fairly uniform (i.e., all soccer balls), and therefore most molecules are exposed to the environment. Therefore, synthetic oils theoretically provide more uniform protection as well as last longer before their molecular covalent bonds begin to degrade. My personal problem with this is the fact that motor oil "suspends" impurities and turns black. Therefore, it needs to be changed to prevent impurties from essentially oversaturating the environment. Since synthetic oil supposedly does not have to changed as frequently, these "free radical-like" impurities float around longer. So, I suppose it is a cost issue/preference. I would think that synthetic is better because of the protection and extended weight range (5w-50, etc), but I have never had any problems with refined oil of various brands. Someone else can post and support or refute my story, but this is what I was told. My disclaimer: I am not a member of the DiscoWeb Lounge, and I do not have 3000+ posts to my name. Thanks, Brian | ||
| Axel Haakonsen (Axel) Moderator Username: Axel Post Number: 975 Registered: 02-2003 |
That must have been one hell of a short block....  Seriously, stick with synthetic if you want to protect your investment. - Axel | ||
| Brian (Bthaxton) Member Username: Bthaxton Post Number: 69 Registered: 02-2003 |
I don't know if I actually made my point in the above post. Yes, I believe synthetic is better because of its properties. As I said, it is an individual cost decision. Thanks, Brian | ||
| Bob Shinn (Bshinn) Member Username: Bshinn Post Number: 61 Registered: 01-2004 |
I've run Mobil-1 in every car i've owned since ~ 1989 (new & used) & I SWEAR by the stuff. The oil leak rumors are just that i've never had a problem with leaks. I ran it in a Pathfinder I bought new in 93. Changed it about every 10k, sold it in 99 w/ 200k on it. Oil press & compression were within factory spec, & if you looked in the oil fill hole with a flashlight the head was still shiny bright aluminim, (no sludge). just my $.02 | ||
| Bob Shinn (Bshinn) Member Username: Bshinn Post Number: 62 Registered: 01-2004 |
P.S. If you run it longer than dino oil, (w/filter change & top off every 3-5k), the cost premiunm is reduiced. | ||
| Chris Johnson (Disco_fever) New Member Username: Disco_fever Post Number: 7 Registered: 02-2004 |
is it wise to switch from regular to synthetic? | ||
| Perry Ray Miller (Discojunky) Member Username: Discojunky Post Number: 71 Registered: 03-2003 |
I have personally seen several engines apart at a local Land Rover service shop. Tons (I'm talkin' scary amounts) of build up was present in engines with under 80K that have used petroleum based oils. I don't know the history of the vehicles... but it looked to me as if there is a pattern of build up in LR motors with petroleum based oils. Also, there were no motors that used synthetic to compare them to for what its worth. But, when I bought my 98' with 60K on it it had enough crap in the oil pan to clog up my oil screen in the sump and cause the engine to lose oil pressure and I had to tow it home. So, I took the pan off cleaned it out and put in synthetic. It runs noticeably smoother and I HOPE a lot cleaner. I'll know the next time I pull the pan. | ||
| Bob Shinn (Bshinn) Member Username: Bshinn Post Number: 63 Registered: 01-2004 |
Chris, Done it several times w/ no negative results. | ||
| eric johnson (Eric2) Senior Member Username: Eric2 Post Number: 263 Registered: 05-2003 |
I know a Rover owner with the same story as Bob's. Took a Rover engine apart around 200K, just to "see", since we all know Rover engines rarely make it that long without a rebuild. He put a micrometer on the crank and measured other bits....all within factory spec. and shiney clean inside. Mr. Robison, who posts here and on RN has an autoshop. He recommends Mobil-1. (though I've read where Mobil recently changed the formulation) Robison has mentioned several other benefits of using synthetics. i.e.,if you happen to overheat your engine, you have a much better chance of no engine damage with the synth., as it has a higher boiling point, or whatever petroleum engineers call it. Amsoil and Royal Purple are considered the best, I believe. Red Line a close second. Comments? | ||
| Matt Anderson (Disco01) Senior Member Username: Disco01 Post Number: 260 Registered: 10-2003 |
I have always just used the cheapest name brand synthetic I can fine, usually penzoil. I have 60K and have never had any valve train noises or problems to speak of, and every 5k when I pull the plug the oil runs out almost as clean looking as when it goes in. For as much as I drive I change my oil for the few times a year I change it 10 extra bucks just does not seem like much. Another thing I should note is that my rover has never leaked a drop of oil. Granted every month when I pressure clean the bottom there will be slight residue, but no actual gathered oil. Further my 96 recieved the same treatment and after 70k had a true minumum of leaks during its life. So few I really never considered her a leaker. I also had no valve trouble or any engine trouble there either. Ok, so now I need to ask a question. I have always used 10w30 as it is well suited to East TN climate, but i have long been intrigued with Castrols 5w50. Any plusses to or minuses to this weight? Or, should I just stick the 10dub. | ||
| Tony Zuniga (Tony23007) Senior Member Username: Tony23007 Post Number: 288 Registered: 05-2003 |
The question of synthetic or non-systhetic is the same as premium gas to regular unleaded. It's entirely the owners decision or financial situation. Synthetics usually run double or more than regular oils, they are better for your engine just like premium gas is better than regular. It's my experience that synthetics leak more than normal oil and that they also serve to clean your engine so if your switching from regular to synthetic it might be a good idea to change your oil every 3k miles for the first couple of times. If you really want accurate information read the back label of most synthetic oil bottles most of them tell you why synthetics are different than conventional oils or go to Mobil1.com. But again what you put in your car (oil, gas) is what you get out, but also remember this is a Rover so there are no gurantees...... | ||
| Shawn McKenzie (Shawn) Member Username: Shawn Post Number: 202 Registered: 10-2002 |
Viscosity spread was explained to me in this way: 5W50 flows like 5 weight on startup (quick to the valvetrain up top, great in the morning or when it is cold outside) but protects like 50 weight when the engine is warm/hot/working hard. If this is correct, I don't understand why everyone who is willing to pay for synthetics doesn't use 5W50? I've heard the oil pump "works harder to push that 50 weight around" but it isn't thick 50 weight dino oil, it just protects like it is. (donning Nomex skippies now) | ||
| thom mathie (Muskyman) Senior Member Username: Muskyman Post Number: 607 Registered: 11-2002 |
i would have to say not so true  the debate of premium and regular has more to do with ignition timing and cam profile and what the total combustion chamber pressures are then personal preference. If a motor is screaming for premium and you feed it 87 it WILL die a early death. I run mobil1 and in the disco I believe it is a good idea, but there are a number of dino's that would work very well and would not kill it quick. these are different debates and should be recognized as such MM |
