| Author | Message | ||
     Wicks (Wicks) Member Username: Wicks Post Number: 135 Registered: 03-2003 |
Hey all. Going to add a new Disco to the parade. Would like to get the G4, but dunno. What is the good lease deal to get? Can anyone share some details? Thanks! Wicks | ||
| Brett A. Naquin (Bnaquin) Member Username: Bnaquin Post Number: 65 Registered: 09-2003 |
Leasing never worked for me because the number of miles I drive every year. I've heard horror stories from people that go over the allotted miles each year. | ||
| Curt Perlman (Cnote) New Member Username: Cnote Post Number: 28 Registered: 01-2004 |
Leasing (especially a G4) is a horrible idea if you are going to use the Disco as intended. You cannot modify it at all unless you are 100% sure you can return it to stock with no damage. In addition, you will get charged for (almost) every little scratch and dent from off-roading. IMHO it jut doesn't make sense unless you want a "mall-terrain vehicle." | ||
| Matt Anderson (Disco01) Senior Member Username: Disco01 Post Number: 264 Registered: 10-2003 |
Yeah I would agree with Curt except that if you are not gonna do any serious off roading and not damage it than it would be ok. You wont get a good deal on a G4, but usually can get an S model for $399 a month, which in my opinion is a smokin' deal. Depends on the promotion LR is running. Hopefully someone like Alyssa will chime in on this one. | ||
| Wicks (Wicks) Member Username: Wicks Post Number: 140 Registered: 03-2003 |
Thanks folks. Yeah, this one the my girl is going to get for daily driving. So I guess, yeah, it'll be between the office and the miss sixty store all the time. Prolly not too much offroading, just club runs which would cause no damage. Any other thoughts on the G4 edition itself? | ||
| Ivan 94 LWB (Montoya) New Member Username: Montoya Post Number: 39 Registered: 01-2003 |
Looks like your girls looking for more curbside appeal. The G4 is pretty flashy from the outside but the interior is all black with non-leather seats. I recommend an all black or all white se7 (to pack her skinny club girl crew) with the bling bling chrome trail package. The tan leater interior with black piping is nice. Get the dvd package to entertain the club crew between stops. Check it out online. | ||
| Alyssa Brown (Alyssa) Senior Member Username: Alyssa Post Number: 512 Registered: 01-2003 |
Wicks, Leasing a G4 is actually a great value, because you get to use "S" residuals and money factors, which are HEAVILY subsidised. So, in practice, while the G4 costs the same as an SE, you will most likely pay $100 less per month on a lease for the G4. I can't provide specifics, as the numbers are regional, and programs vary from state to state. Don't be misled & think you'll be paying $399, though! The G4 is $5000 more than the base S in that example. Plus, it's $399 + tax, and approximately $5000 due up front. AND, it's only 10k miles/year. Fine for me, but maybe not for you. As what you can and cannot negotiate: Residual, MSRP, $495 bank fee (for LRCG), $395 disposition fee -- all set in stone, absolutely nothing the dealer can do about them. The security deposit can be waived by raising the money factor... in PA, we raise it .0001, which is approx $5/month. Things you can negotiate: the money factor (down to the rate the dealer is actually paying), and the selling price of the car. The dealer may try to raise the money factor, but they most likely will not do that on the S. As far as your mileage goes, if you are waffling between 10k and 12k miles/year, go with 12k, it is not that much more. If you are between 12k & 15k, though, get out your calculator... there is a bigger jump in payment. If you are a 15k/year driver, keep your lease term to 39 months or less. Any longer, and you will be out of warranty during your lease. Good luck! | ||
| Matt Anderson (Disco01) Senior Member Username: Disco01 Post Number: 270 Registered: 10-2003 |
Wow Alyssa I did not realize there was that much down payment. It truly does not seem like that great of a deal anymore, espcially when there seem to be lots of low mileage 03 S's around for less than $25k. I am curious on you take on this, which method does the dealer prefer...buy or lease? I heard once that you should never let a dealer know you are gonna lease until you have agreed on a price, then use that amount for them to draw the lease terms on. It just seems like it would be really easy to get burned when leasing with all the different amounts and fees you mentioned above. | ||
| Alan E. Foster (Vt_alan) New Member Username: Vt_alan Post Number: 30 Registered: 11-2003 |
I leased a vehicle _once_, and it was the worst idea ever -- if ever you want to own the vehicle, you're out a lot of money at the end of the lease. In my case, I was convinced that once the lease ended, I could buy the car with the buy-option, and could keep it ... in the end, I would have overpaid the price of the vehicle severely in order to purchase it at the end of the lease. The manufacturer makes money, don't be disillusioned ... if you want a new car, perpetually, and have tons of money, then I guess you can afford a lease, but it's still not a good idea -- do a search online and you'll see plenty of reasons not to lease. If you get a 39 month lease, and pay $399/month, after other fees and taxes, you pay at least $16000 -- and have no vehicle to call your own at the end of the term. If the vehicle is for a business, you can lease and use the payments as a tax write off, in which case it ain't so bad. Sorry, don't mean to rant, just my $.02 ... | ||
| Matt Anderson (Disco01) Senior Member Username: Disco01 Post Number: 273 Registered: 10-2003 |
I would say if you want a new car perpetually then get something that has really high resale value. I had a yellow Jeep TJ once for about 6 mos. that I actually made $500 dollars on. I bought it new at invoice minus some dealer incentive and sold it around Christmas time through the classifieds. Granted it only had 3k miles on it, but still. I know this is a freak occurence but I have known people who have bought Hondas and only lost $3k over almost three years and 30k miles of driving. This isnt an option on a Disco, however. Maybe on a Toyota Highlander though. | ||
| Alyssa Brown (Alyssa) Senior Member Username: Alyssa Post Number: 514 Registered: 01-2003 |
If you are planning to buy at the end, NEVER lease first. In PA, you pay 9% sales tax on a lease, but only 6% on a purchase. If the residual is subsidized, you will have to pay WAY more than the car is worth at the end of the lease. PLUS, think about it... you'll be paying for the car over 8 years +, not over 5 years. If you're planning on buying, BUY. It doesn't matter one bit if you are planning to lease or buy to the dealer. There is no incentive either way for either one to happen. I don't know where that rumor came from. As far as getting "burned" you'll notice there are only 2 terms the dealer can change... and those are the same 2 things the dealer can change on a purchase. Purchase price and money factor/interest rate. There are a lot of reasons to lease. We're not really lease people, we tend to pay cash for everything. Even so, we're leasing our BMW right now... the lease payment is $500/month cheaper than the purchase would have been. We're not planning on keeping the car for more than 3 years. Leases can be written off through businesses. If you buy a quickly depreciating vehicle (unfortunately, like LR), leasing is nice because you don't lose your shirt when you go to sell it... you're not the one losing the money, LRCG is. If you drive a lot of miles, leasing is generally NOT a good idea. And Matt's experience with the TJ is only because who ever bought it didn't do their homework. That was a fluke. And "that much down payment" includes your first month's payment, sales tax, and registration fees, etc... the "down payment" portion of it is only $2500. | ||
| Matt Anderson (Disco01) Senior Member Username: Disco01 Post Number: 274 Registered: 10-2003 |
I read about the leasing tips in Consumer Reports, but I always suspected they were full of crap. You see, there point was that It is more concise to negotiate on the sales price rather than the monthly price so that there is no juggling of money. For example, Actually I am not sure how much of a fluke it was. It was an 01 yellow sport with the 30inch tires, full doors, subwoofer etc and listed for 24 and I bought it for a smidge over 19 in August between buying in slightly above invoice and a rebate as well as some dealer incentives. I sold it for 19500, which was actually lower than book. I was gonna trade it in on my 02 Audi but decided the 18 something trade value was too low. I put it in the paper for 20 and had lots of interest, sold it for 19500. Theoretically I lost money because I would have paid sales tax on it when I bought it. I am not sure I would have leased the 5, before my brother bought is 38A he had a six speed 540i (2000) and when he sold it (newspaper) after two years only took 7k loss. It had 35k and bald ass tires. Of course, I am sure my family is just the fluke family. But, Alyssa you are theoretically correct, if the person had done their homework they would have figured it out, but any person in business knows people often times dont do their homework when it comes to anything. How has the money due as signing shrunk from 5k at an above post to 2.5 know? Oh I see, some of that tricky car dealer jargon. Yes, we have some of that to, they are words like tort, negligence, punitive....... | ||
| Wicks (Wicks) Member Username: Wicks Post Number: 141 Registered: 03-2003 |
Wow, thanks for all the info Alyssa. I am going to study it carefully later. There's also the 6,000lb+ equipment write-off, and since she'll have another car still, we might go for a purchase, and write that one off in full in 2004. I have two friends who have done it with New Rangies. In that case we'd have to purchase. What would you call a well negotiated purchase price on a G4? Thanks again! |
