| Author | Message | ||
     Matthew A. Barnes (Discoveryxd) Senior Member Username: Discoveryxd Post Number: 422 Registered: 08-2003 |
I've been having some problems with my disco, and the tech said I may need a valve job soon. How much am I looking at here? Parts & labor? '97 D1 Thanks, Matt | ||
| Melissa L Nance (Roverchic) New Member Username: Roverchic Post Number: 5 Registered: 02-2004 |
Just had mine done @ the dealership it was 600.00...1998 Disco I | ||
| John Moore (Jmoore) Senior Member Username: Jmoore Post Number: 838 Registered: 10-2002 |
$1500-$2000. Have you considered pulling the heads yourself? The actual cost of the machine work should be around $250. A gasket set is $120. It's complex, but do-able if you can wrench. | ||
| Dean Chrismon (Chrismonda) Member Username: Chrismonda Post Number: 177 Registered: 12-2002 |
I cringe everytime I think of those two words. It will not be cheap. John is right mine from the dealer was about $1900. Good luck. | ||
| John Moore (Jmoore) Senior Member Username: Jmoore Post Number: 839 Registered: 10-2002 |
Matt, what are the symptons and how many miles do you have? The real cost of the job is in all the labor. You have to pull the top 1/2 of the engine out. I did it on my old Range Rover. If you patient, organized, have good tools (need a torque wrench), a garage and a workshop manual you can do it. You just have to keep everything clean and organized. I put everything in baggies and took lots of digital photos. It took two weekends. One to pull the heads, the machine work done during the week and the other weekend to button it up. | ||
| Matthew A. Barnes (Discoveryxd) Senior Member Username: Discoveryxd Post Number: 423 Registered: 08-2003 |
Being mechanically inclined isn't what I'm worried about right now. It's not having the time or place to do it. I can't even fit my disco in the garage, even if I took my roof rack off. I play HS baseball, and I don't know if I would have time to do it also. Why was Dean's $1900, and Melissa's $600? What could be different? Thanks, Matt | ||
| John Moore (Jmoore) Senior Member Username: Jmoore Post Number: 840 Registered: 10-2002 |
My apologies to Melissa, but the difference is I don't think she got a valve job for $600. | ||
| Matthew A. Barnes (Discoveryxd) Senior Member Username: Discoveryxd Post Number: 424 Registered: 08-2003 |
Posted around the same time... John, I took it to the dealer, and Sam (master tech.) said the valves were sticking. We've known Sam for a couple years, and he talked about doing it off the side at another shop. It has 47,000 miles on it. I've had it for about a year and a half, and purchased it with 41,000. I baby it too, change oil regularlly, etc... | ||
| John Moore (Jmoore) Senior Member Username: Jmoore Post Number: 841 Registered: 10-2002 |
Those are low miles, but unfortunately US discos are known for valve problems. The theory I've heard is that they have to really tweak the old buick engine to get it up to current US emmision standards and really advance the timing. If don't use good quality premium fuel, the engine will ping and the ECU will retard the timing which can lead to carbon build up on the valves, thus the stick, etc. It's just a theory, but makes sense to me. Have you been using premium and a fuel injector cleaner like Chevon with Techron with each oil change? Again, my apologies to Melissa, but here's a break down. $120 per side to clean, degrease, mag heads and to lap valves, check or replace guides and seals. Maybe replace springs $120 for Gasket Kit, + 30 if using Felpro or better composit gaskets. $90 for new head bolts, to use with composit gaskets. Parts and machine shop alone is $480, not including pulling it apart, which is a ton of work. So $600 is too low for a proper valve job. | ||
| Matthew A. Barnes (Discoveryxd) Senior Member Username: Discoveryxd Post Number: 426 Registered: 08-2003 |
John, That's part of my "babying." I ALWAYS buy techron gas from the Chevron station close by. The only time I don't, is when I'm out of town on a hunting/fishing trip for example. Where there's only one station in the middle of nowhere. I normally buy mid-grade techron, and use injector cleaner every so often (more than just every oil change). | ||
| John Moore (Jmoore) Senior Member Username: Jmoore Post Number: 843 Registered: 10-2002 |
I dunno, Matt. You never told us what the symptoms are... Have you had a second opinion? That does seem like low miles for a valve job. | ||
| Matthew A. Barnes (Discoveryxd) Senior Member Username: Discoveryxd Post Number: 430 Registered: 08-2003 |
John, He ran a couple of test on it and he said the valves were sticking. I can hear a tapping noise (not too loud, but loud enough to hear when climbing a hill for example) when I drive. The diagnostic says P0300 (-T-) Misfire on multiple cylinders (drive cycle B) P1316 (P--) Misfire causing excess emissions (driving Cycle C) P1313 (PT-) Misfire likely to cause damage to catalyst bank A (driving Cycle C) Hopefully that will help. | ||
| eric johnson (Eric2) Senior Member Username: Eric2 Post Number: 275 Registered: 05-2003 |
Sounds like the previous owner didn't take care of it, and now you're "takin' it". Is your vehicle a lease return? When did the warranty run out? | ||
| John Moore (Jmoore) Senior Member Username: Jmoore Post Number: 846 Registered: 10-2002 |
Matt,I was thinking about your problem. Looks like the codes your getting a valve job is in order. Hey, if you want to try this it won't hurt, but do so at your own risk... There is a "snake oil" type product that many old "shade trees" swear by, it's called Sea Foam. It can be used many ways, in the oil, gas tank and put directly in to the intake. If poured into the intake and the directions are followed it may help clean up your valves. I have found it a NAPA, it was originally developed for Marine use. Again, read the instructions and use at your own risk, but you would need to pull the large hose between the MAF and plentium chanber. While the engine is running, funnel or spray the sea foam into the intake until it almost stalls, turn the motor off and let it sit. Crank it and let it burn off. Your exhaust will look like a mosquito fogger. Pour the rest in your gas tank. See what happens. I've used it in my MG which has carbs. (SU's), but never in my Rover. Just and idea to buy time, Good luck! http://www.seafoamsales.com/products.htm | ||
| Pugsly (Pugsly) Senior Member Username: Pugsly Post Number: 303 Registered: 11-2002 |
I agree with John's comments. With a little care, this is a good DIY project over 2 weekends, with the vehicle down during the week while the machine shop is doing the heads. You will want to budget a little extra for replacement parts as well - I ended up replacing all my springs and one of my valves when I did my valve job. Or, if you want to do it over a single weekend you could easily do that if you buy a set of rebuilt heads, gaskets, and bolts. Then just return the old heads to get the core charge back. And the torque wrench is important. If you are a reasonably organized person this is a very doable project. Just unbolting and bolting (but an awful lot of bolts!) | ||
| Matthew A. Barnes (Discoveryxd) Senior Member Username: Discoveryxd Post Number: 435 Registered: 08-2003 |
Thanks Guys, escpecially to you John. I stopped by Sam's house this morning, because he wanted to try some special cleaner on my rig. Here's what he did. He first removed the intake hose from the plenum chamber. Then took a small spray bottle and sprayed the entire thing into the plenum chamber. Next he put an "S" shaped sray nozzle in the opening of the chamber, and then secured the intake hose around the nozzle back on the chamber. He hooked that nozzle up to a cylinder that was labled "Intake Valve Cleaner." That was hooked up to an air compressor so it would spray the cleaner into the chamber while the engine was running. So I started the car up, and he adjusted the idle. He then revved it up a couple times, and big clouds of black carbon were shooting out of the exhuast. We let it run for a little while like that. He was then putting things back together, when he noticed the kick down cable was way out of adjustment. The shift points on my car were horrible, so it was lugging it all the time (that's why it had no gut up the freeway). I just thought my disco was just slow like every other one. He then adjusted the cable, and we went for a drive. I have NEVER seen my car accelerate that fast. That made a huge difference. Hills that my car would normally lose speed on, were no problem. I was flying up them! Finally, her's what I think... The lady who owned it before me didn't take care of it the way she should have. She probably bought the cheapest, gas she could find. It probably never saw a bottle of cleaner the time she owned it too. The fact that I live 1/2 mile away from school, and I never get to accelerate (like up a freeway on ramp) didn't help either. So I'll see how this does, and maybe I won't need a valve job. Thanks everybody. Matt | ||
| Pugsly (Pugsly) Senior Member Username: Pugsly Post Number: 304 Registered: 11-2002 |
That's great news! The best valve job is the one you find you don't have to do... | ||
| Melissa Nance (Roverchic) New Member Username: Roverchic Post Number: 10 Registered: 02-2004 |
My apologies to Melissa, but the difference is I don't think she got a valve job for $600... THANKS !!! ""JOHN"" IT WAS A TYPO.. 1600.00 NOT 600.00 .. JUST REALIZED THAT... I HAD IT DONE @ LAND ROVER AUSTIN ... SAME WEEKEND THAT I AHD THE 975.00 60K CHECK UP ... THE TOTAL BILL CAME TO 2600.00 .. SORRY MATT!!! | ||
| Matthew A. Barnes (Discoveryxd) Senior Member Username: Discoveryxd Post Number: 437 Registered: 08-2003 |
"The best valve job is the one you find you don't have to do..." I certainly agree with you on that one Pugsly!  Melissa, That sounds a little bit better, or worse... errr... you know what I mean. I'll keep my fingers crossed, and hopefully things will only get better. | ||
| Mark Tappin (Hiprint) Member Username: Hiprint Post Number: 76 Registered: 05-2003 |
Mathew Did this resolve your engine codes? P0300 (-T-) Misfire on multiple cylinders (drive cycle B) P1316 (P--) Misfire causing excess emissions (driving Cycle C) P1313 (PT-) Misfire likely to cause damage to catalyst bank A (driving Cycle C) Having a similar problem and wondering if this fixed it - not eager to spend the $2K thanks | ||
| Big Ed (Sandman) New Member Username: Sandman Post Number: 35 Registered: 02-2004 |
RoverChic only paid the $600...the "not so nice guy" she spent the weekend with paid the other $1000. <wink> It was an honest mistake as she only paid $600 for the valve job. SandMan | ||
| Ryan Roundy (Rrefxut) Member Username: Rrefxut Post Number: 42 Registered: 12-2003 |
I'm doing mine right now, took them off myself, (it's a lot easier when the engine isn't in the vehicle) bought all new gaskets and bolts, which if I remember was just over 200, the machine shop says at least 450, and i researched my machine shops to make sure i found one familiar with rover heads, (thanks Marc for the input on that). Now just need to get a new rocker arms while I'm at it.. and hopefully I will never have to do this again! Or at least not be on a student bedget next time. | ||
| Jason McCombs (Jasonmc) Member Username: Jasonmc Post Number: 158 Registered: 06-2003 |
ryan, are you taking digital pictures while you do this? If so i'd love to see them. i myself am figting the inevitable on my 96. the thought of shelling out over 2K gives me stomach pains. I know its a lot of work and the cost is in the labor but it still hurts. my codes so far have not reached the third stage yet i have P0300 random multiple misfires and P1316 excessive emissions due to misfire. im still game for giving Sea Foam a try, haven't done that yet. also not to hijack the thread but could a leaky/malfunctioning injector cause the same codes that i am getting? | ||
| flyor (Flyor) Member Username: Flyor Post Number: 60 Registered: 05-2003 |
Ryan, I took my heads to a local machine shop and only paid $165.00 to have them reworked. I already had the new style valves. This is the only machine shop that I use. They have been around a long time. Ask yours exactly what you're getting for the $450, that seems a little high to me unless you're getting new valves too. | ||
| John Moore (Jmoore) Senior Member Username: Jmoore Post Number: 857 Registered: 10-2002 |
I agree with flyor, $450 sounds high for the machine work. Check out my break down of labor above. As I recall, I think my RR heads was $250 total for the pair. | ||
| Ryan Roundy (Rrefxut) Member Username: Rrefxut Post Number: 44 Registered: 12-2003 |
That price does include the new valves and springs, but they say it may go up with any additional machine work needed. And Sorry Jason, I haven't gotten with the times and bought a digital camera yet, I just payed so much for my underwater APS, that I can't bring myself to replace it quite yet. I am being very very organized in building this engine. But the digi camera would defiantly make it so I don't constantly have the hood of the other rover up while workin on this one. When I get some of this paid for, that will be next on my list. Thanks, Ryan | ||
| Greg French (Gregfrench) Senior Member Username: Gregfrench Post Number: 677 Registered: 11-2002 |
Sea Foam is also available in a spray can at NAPA called Sea Foam "Deep Creep" and is made for spraying directly into a vacuum line. The can says to let it sit for 5 min. I usually let it sit for a few hours- Maybe overnight. Also, check out these links for very good valve job instructions: http://www.robisonservice.com/servicedep/pdfs/carbon_fouling1.pdf http://www.robisonservice.com/servicedep/pdfs/carbon_fouling2.pdf | ||
| John Moore (Jmoore) Senior Member Username: Jmoore Post Number: 858 Registered: 10-2002 |
Are you sure about Deep Creep in the injection? I thought that was a penetrating spray like PB Blaster... Hmmm, I just re-read their website... I guess you can use it that way... | ||
| Greg French (Gregfrench) Senior Member Username: Gregfrench Post Number: 682 Registered: 11-2002 |
I was just going by what is on the can's instructions. | ||
| Matthew A. Barnes (Discoveryxd) Senior Member Username: Discoveryxd Post Number: 449 Registered: 08-2003 |
Hey Mark, The check engine light came back on today. I thought everything was going to be ok after we did the procedure I talked about above, but now it's back. It's started running rough again today, and Sam thinks the valves are sticking again. I'm going to see him tomorrow to see what the codes are. I think I'm going to need a valve job after all. How has the ARB been holding up on your RRC Mark? Good to hear from yah, Matt |
