| Author | Message | ||
     Neal Burton (Fredjenkins) New Member Username: Fredjenkins Post Number: 1 Registered: 01-2004 |
I blew a wheel bearing and am having trouble getting the hub off to fix it. Anyone know of any special techniques? I've taken loose every bolt that appears to be holding it on. Used a puller and still can't get it to budge. Also if anyone has any diagrams that show any of this please send them to me at NBmx@comcast.net. Thanks for any help D-web. | ||
| Neal Burton (Fredjenkins) New Member Username: Fredjenkins Post Number: 2 Registered: 01-2004 |
oh yeah 97 D1 | ||
| Brad Noviski (Bradnoviski) Member Username: Bradnoviski Post Number: 101 Registered: 02-2003 |
Here is a diagram that my help.http://www.spanishtrailrovers.com/Tech/Maintain/Wheel_Bearing_Replacement/front_ hub_assembly.jpg or | ||
| Micky_dee (Micky_dee) Member Username: Micky_dee Post Number: 66 Registered: 11-2003 |
i bet that the whell bearing has become welded to the stub axle! just keep n pulling untill all the needle bearings fall out. it will be a mess but that is all that i can think off..... | ||
| thom mathie (Muskyman) Senior Member Username: Muskyman Post Number: 615 Registered: 11-2002 |
well close but no the outer wheel bearing is the culprit and it has most likely welded itself to the spindle. only the spindle bearing touches the stub shaft,the wheel bearings ride on the spindle and inside races pressed into the hub. you need to grind through the race of the outer bearing till it falls apart. I used a large die grinder but others have had success with a 4" grinder or a dremel tool. once the little cylinder bearings are out the hub will come free leaving the inner bearing still on the spindle. you may need to keep cutting the base of the race for the remnents of the outer bearing to come free. I have used a hack saw with the round abrasive type blade to do this numerous times, the secret is to cut till you are almost thru then smack it with a hammer and cold chisel to crack it instead of cutting all the thru and messing up the spindle($$$). you still may have to use a strip of 1" emery cloth to polish any places on the spindle that are to rough, often when a bearing has spun on the spindle it will cause gouging that will hang up that bearing as well as the inside one when you go to slide it off. D1's take a timken set 37 and they are cheap almost anywhere. good luck MM | ||
| Kevin Hans (Kmhans) New Member Username: Kmhans Post Number: 16 Registered: 01-2004 |
Just had the same thing happen. Ended up having to have the outer bearing torched out. Looked like someone had really botched the procedure once before as the stub axle was badly gouged (maybe from an air hammer?) At any rate, now I'm running smooth except the Service Engine light came on almost immediately after the repair... | ||
| Jaime Crusellas (Jaime) Senior Member Username: Jaime Post Number: 256 Registered: 05-2003 |
I just went thru the same exercise a couple of days ago. Follow Thom's advice, and you'll be fine. I used a cylindrical grinding stone, about 7/16 diameter and ground a hole on the edge of the bearing reace that was seized around the axle, and was able to coax the mashed roller bearings out. At that point, the hub came off easily. I have an air cutoff tool with a small grinding wheel that I used to cut a slot across the bearing, and like Thom, smacked it with a hammer and chisel and it cracked along the slot, then it was easy to remove. Instead of emery, I used a very fine file to file down the gouges in order to remove the inner bearing. After you remove the bearing races from the hub, cut a slot all the way across one of them. Then save this race because you just made yourself a bearing drift that you can use to press in your new races into the hub. Since the old race has the slot cut, it will compress slightly and not get stuck in the hub. Using this tool instead of a screwdriver to press in the new races eliminates the risk of slipping and scoring the new race. Good luck Kevin, WTF is with the service engine light??? Mine came on as well?? | ||
| Kevin Hans (Kmhans) New Member Username: Kmhans Post Number: 17 Registered: 01-2004 |
Jaime, Hear this out...Used to drive a 97 D90 a lot off road. The NAS D90s were not equipped with ABS, but did have wheel speed sensors. A tech told me that the Service Engine light could come on if there is a disruption with the sensor because it is linked to the engine managment and has something to do with reducing engine knock when operating in low range. I'm a little fuzzy on the details but I seem to remember him saying something along these lines. I need to get the code to see if I'm talking out my arse or not! Let me know if you find out anything with yours! | ||
| Joe M. (Little_joe) Senior Member Username: Little_joe Post Number: 304 Registered: 11-2002 |
I had the same saga with the front wheel bearings. I did a writeup on it you may find helpful: http://www.4x4wire.com/rover/maintenance/front_axle/wheel_bearings/ joe | ||
| Neal Burton (Fredjenkins) New Member Username: Fredjenkins Post Number: 6 Registered: 01-2004 |
woohoo! finally got it off. thanks for the info everyone. much appreciated. Neal | ||
| Kevin Hans (Kmhans) New Member Username: Kmhans Post Number: 28 Registered: 01-2004 |
Jaime, The Service engine light was just the emissions reminder. Bugger to make sure you hit both the pins though! Just happened to coincide with the wheel bearing detonation I guess. Kevin Hans 96 5spd 115k | ||
| Phil (Discoanywhere) Member Username: Discoanywhere Post Number: 145 Registered: 06-2003 |
awesome write up joe! | ||
| Jaime Crusellas (Jaime) Senior Member Username: Jaime Post Number: 267 Registered: 05-2003 |
Kevin, I have 108k on mine, so I don't know if that's emission reminder or not in my case. I'm planning on getting an OBDII reader next paycheck, so I'll have a better idea. | ||
| Kevin Hans (Kmhans) New Member Username: Kmhans Post Number: 30 Registered: 01-2004 |
Jaime, In the meantime check the emissions sensor. It only takes about 20 min start to finish and there is a good article in the tech section that shows ya how! I don't know the interval at which the sensor goes off, but I do know that you can't reset the reminder until after the light goes off. | ||
| Neal Burton (Fredjenkins) New Member Username: Fredjenkins Post Number: 7 Registered: 01-2004 |
After getting everything back on the antilock dash light stays on. Anyone have any ideas about that? As far as I know the only thing I did to the brakes was unbolt the caliper and put it back on. Coincedence? | ||
| Jaime Crusellas (Jaime) Senior Member Username: Jaime Post Number: 268 Registered: 05-2003 |
Try reseating the abs sensor. just push it until it contacts the abs sensor ring The sensors will be pushed back to the correct distance once you start driving. |
