| Author | Message | ||
     Praveen K (Praveenk22) Member Username: Praveenk22 Post Number: 41 Registered: 05-2003 |
This might sound stupid , but I don't know how to remove the lug caps on a wheel? I tried using a 27mm /1 1/16 wheel wrench on this alumminum looking thing that sits on top of each of the 5 wheel nuts. Tried turning it clock wise & anticlock wise. Sprayed wd40, the cap just won't budge? Any ideas, I am trying to replace the brake pads on all four wheels? Just trying to remove the wheel has got me stuck, don't know what else I may run into  | ||
| Pugsly (Pugsly) Senior Member Username: Pugsly Post Number: 305 Registered: 11-2002 |
I think you're talking about the lug nuts? Sometimes you have to use a breaker bar and stand on it, or put a big pipe extension on. They should come off real easy, but if anyone else but you did it I would be it is way overtorqued. | ||
| Steve Cooper (Scrover) Senior Member Username: Scrover Post Number: 710 Registered: 09-2002 |
You don't remove the caps. Just remove the whole nut and cap together. SC | ||
| Praveen K (Praveenk22) Member Username: Praveenk22 Post Number: 42 Registered: 05-2003 |
Thanks guys. The last time I got the brakes replaced got it done at NTB. Since then I haven't touched it. So going back to the truck and will try standing on the wrench and see if the lugs comes off --PGK | ||
| Pugsly (Pugsly) Senior Member Username: Pugsly Post Number: 306 Registered: 11-2002 |
you might have to jump up and down on it. If you are just using the lug nut wrench that came with the vehicle, be careful - it is very likely that it will bend before the lug nuts break loose (ask me how I know). I carry a breaker bar and socket with me these days instead... | ||
| James Briscoe (Rockywood) New Member Username: Rockywood Post Number: 27 Registered: 01-2004 |
I just got some new tires and the garage that installed them was ready to torgue the stock rims back up. Luckily I was there and got my manual out to see if I could find the torque value... 96 foot pounds. The guy installing the tires couldn't believe it as he thought that was quite a low torque setting for such big lugs. He was going to torque them at 140 he said. I said to do it to 110 cause it would be better to be over than under and loose a tire. Just thought you should know when you put your rims back on so you don't over do it. | ||
| Jamie (Rover_puppy) Senior Member Username: Rover_puppy Post Number: 966 Registered: 05-2003 |
I second Pugsly on the breaker bar. Before I got it, I couldn't get mine loose even if I jumped up and down on the thing that comes with the truck. Now it is very easy for me to loosen and tighten them, I haven't even have to stand on it. The rule my tech gave me for tightening them is: as far as I can turn them without extra force, he said anything more than that is too tight. I should add that my breaker bar is 24" so it doesn't require as much force when using it. Also, when he told me that he was showing me how to use it and was able to determine the force I needed when I tried it. Good Luck, Jamie | ||
| Praveen K (Praveenk22) Member Username: Praveenk22 Post Number: 43 Registered: 05-2003 |
Got the wheel lugs off. Hand to stand the wrench, tried all kinds of stuff one leg on the cross bar wrench & hands tugging the other end. Quite an ordeal. Finally got them off after nearly 1.5 hrs. Stuck again as now I don't know how to get the callipers off. Read the documentation off expedition exchange. For some reason I can't figure out which two bolts to unthread as there are 4 bolts on the front D1 calliper. In addition there are 2 spring loaded blots running over the outside of the calliper structure. All said and done unsuccessful first attempt at replacing brake pads. Would definitely help if anyone could share their experience in replacing brake pads on a D1. Will try second attempt next weekend. | ||
| Max Thomason (Lrmax) Senior Member Username: Lrmax Post Number: 294 Registered: 11-2002 |
Here is what I did: I took my dremel tool and I cut from the top all the way to the bottom. Then I turned the lug nut upside down and punched the cap off. Once that was done I took them all and painted them silver to make the kinda-match the rim. The lug nuts are now 26mm and I had to find a 26mm socket to fit it (very, very difficult to find). They are a lot better now. The caps had become extremely deformed and I had to hammer the lug wrench onto the lug nut to get it on and then beat the lug nut to make it come out! This was a good modification to the disco (D1) since I was looking at spending anywhere from 150 to 500 bucks on new lug nuts. I spent about 15 bucks on dremel blades (I bought WAY more blades than I needed though). Go for it. But beware! Your disco will sit up on blocks for a few days. It looks kinda funny. I pulled two 7.50x16 tires off my 109 and put them on the disco. Those things barely clear the running boards. Hehehehe. Max T. | ||
| Perry Ray Miller (Discojunky) Member Username: Discojunky Post Number: 79 Registered: 03-2003 |
For the future take a 1-2ft piece of conduct and slide it over the factory wrench for more torque. It also fits in the plastic bag with the wrench if you still have it. | ||
| Dean Brown (Deanbrown3d) Senior Member Username: Deanbrown3d Post Number: 1464 Registered: 02-2002 |
Praveen, for future reference you can use a breaker bar horizontally and a floor jack on its handle to lift it up to start the turn. Dean | ||
| Steve Cooper (Scrover) Senior Member Username: Scrover Post Number: 712 Registered: 09-2002 |
If they are the same as my 93 RRC, you don't need to remove the caliper to change the pads. Just remove the pins from the 'spring loaded blots' and withdraw the pad retaining rods from the caliper. You can then pry the pads out of the caliper. Getting the new ones in is a little harder, but not much. You'll probably have to compress the pistons into the caliper to get the new pads in. This can be done with the judicious use of a large screw driver resting against the inner rim of the rotor. Be careful not to damage the piston seals or scratch up the rotors. Also, be on the look out for brake fluid trying to escape from the filler cap. Once you get the pistons flush with the calipers, slide the new pads in and replace the retaining rods and pins etc. and give the pedal a few pumps to seat the pistons and pads. Probably not quite how the dealer would do it, but that's how I did it the last time and it worked just fine. SC | ||
| Jay Reeves (Jay) Member Username: Jay Post Number: 60 Registered: 10-2003 |
Praveen, Steve is right: the D1 is the same as the RRC. Just pull the spring-loaded pins and the pads come out - no need to remove the caliper. I replaced mine last year and it was the easiest brake job I've ever done. Finally something the LR engineers did right! | ||
| Axel Haakonsen (Axel) Moderator Username: Axel Post Number: 1001 Registered: 02-2003 |
In order to not damage the pistons, I usually compress them with the old pad in place. I just use a vice grip to squeeze the pad against the caliper, which in turn compress the piston. With the new pad ready, I remove the vice grip, pull out the old pad, and drop the new one in. Works like a charm every time. - Axel | ||
| Aaron Richardet (Draaronr) Senior Member Username: Draaronr Post Number: 456 Registered: 09-2002 |
I do it the same as Axel. It is safer, plus the old pads are gonna go in the trash. My only variation is to use the screw driver to wedge the pad and the rotor in order to push the pistons in. Not sure if it was mentioned, but loosen the cap to the brake fluid reservoir. You shouldn't have to worry about fluid coming out unless you have added some over the miles. (in theory it is a contained system) | ||
| Ryan Roundy (Rrefxut) Member Username: Rrefxut Post Number: 45 Registered: 12-2003 |
When i do mine, I loosen the bleeder valve as I compress the piston. I just make sure to have a pan underneath it, and close the bleader valve as soon as you get the piston in place, so no air is sucked in. Not only does this make it easier to compress without causing any damage, but the dirtiest of your brake fluid is that which is in the caliper. By squirting that out as I compress the piston, in theory, I'm also keeping my brake fluid that much cleaner. Whether this is true, or just propoganda fed to me by the shop I worked at, I don't know, but it has worked well so far. Just be sure to top off your brake fluid after you've put the pads in place. Ryan | ||
| Praveen K (Praveenk22) Member Username: Praveenk22 Post Number: 44 Registered: 05-2003 |
This is all fantastic information!! I sat there like a duck yesterday trying to figure out what the hell am I doing? Couldn't make out squat, just poked around looking at everything and decided might as well ask before I do more damage. Will try the method of pulling the pins off the two bolts and replacing the pads this weekend. Thanks again --PGK | ||
| Praveen K (Praveenk22) Member Username: Praveenk22 Post Number: 45 Registered: 05-2003 |
I finally replaced the brake pads on my 99 D1. Thanks to all the above posts and I know I've saved myself some money to buy OME springs. I did notice one thing though, the front right inner brake pad was down to metal and there's some scaring on the rotor. I know I should have got the rotor turned but nonetheless went ahead and put in the new brake pad. Is this going to cause any problems? | ||
| michael a. kerr (Ethanrover98) Member Username: Ethanrover98 Post Number: 51 Registered: 11-2003 |
Number one it greatly reduces the efficiency of that brake and it will prematurely wear the pads down on that side of the rotor. FWIW..... I would disassemble both sides and install "new" rotors now instead of waiting............ | ||
| Jaime Crusellas (Jaime) Senior Member Username: Jaime Post Number: 272 Registered: 05-2003 |
I had some light scoring on my rotors when I replaced the brake pads. After about 30k miles, when I replaced the pads again, the rotors were perfectly smooth. Still within spec (12 mm thick is minimum) |
