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James Anderson (Jnjander)
New Member
Username: Jnjander

Post Number: 36
Registered: 08-2003
Posted on Wednesday, February 25, 2004 - 08:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

99 Disco II, 70K. Since it's gotten "cold" down here in the south (30-40) my transmission has been acting a little strange. When I first start out on a drive, it hesitates as I accelerate. It's like there is no power, then after a few seconds (10-15) it drives fine (sometimes I hear a pop, then it is fine). It does it if it's been sitting for an hour or more in the cold. I had the codes read and there were several "gear ratio incorrect" messages. I changed the fluid and washed the filter, but it still acts the same. I looked in the archives, but I didn't find anything that sounded like the same problem. Any ideas/suggestions? Thanks.
 

tomish lan para hindoola (Mca)
New Member
Username: Mca

Post Number: 8
Registered: 02-2004
Posted on Wednesday, February 25, 2004 - 12:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

well i can tell you this! stop driving it right away! have a someone look at it soon. if not it will cost you a lot to replace. it couls even be some thing wrong in the rear axle? or diff
 

James Anderson (Jnjander)
Member
Username: Jnjander

Post Number: 41
Registered: 08-2003
Posted on Friday, February 27, 2004 - 09:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

OK, after reading the post: ../2/45052.html"#444444">
 

Matt Anderson (Disco01)
Senior Member
Username: Disco01

Post Number: 314
Registered: 10-2003
Posted on Friday, February 27, 2004 - 10:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

James, drive it with the sensor unplugged and see how it is.
 

Chris Browne (Chris_browne)
Senior Member
Username: Chris_browne

Post Number: 652
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Friday, February 27, 2004 - 10:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Like the engine Transmissions get cold....the sluggish fluid when cold is affecting gear selection. Thats commonplace with these ZF boxes. Give it 10-15 sections to warm up (neutral) before selecting drive or reverse. The sticking in first is due to the same cause with the need to warm the Valve body and fluid. With warmer weather it will go away. The code indicates that the computer thinks the truck should be in a different gear to the one its in (first) given speed, throttle setting etc.
Nothing to worry about here. Follow my advice Warmer weather would help of course.....
Chris Browne 95 Discovery New England (coldest ever start -40Deg F...this January didn't feel much different!)
 

Curtis N (Curtis)
Dweb Lounge Member
Username: Curtis

Post Number: 1188
Registered: 05-2002
Posted on Friday, February 27, 2004 - 12:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Chris - his D2 does not use the ZF box. I forget the type off the top of my head, but it is electronically controlled unlike the ZF.

From the little I know, I would vote for a bad freewheel in the planetary. Get it looked at ASAP or risk more damage. It may be the MAF, but you should be able to isolate that pretty quickly. If you have been running a K&N and using too much oil I would weed this out first.
 

Mike (Shinerguy23)
New Member
Username: Shinerguy23

Post Number: 29
Registered: 01-2004
Posted on Friday, February 27, 2004 - 12:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Matt,
I am having a similar problem with my truck that is intermittent and I suspected the MAF. What am I looking for when I drive with the MAF unplugged? Should it run rough all the time or should the problem go away?

I am taking my truck to get the codes pulled today so I am hoping that will give me a little more insight into the hesitation and rough idle.

Mike
 

Will Tillery (Will)
Senior Member
Username: Will

Post Number: 342
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Friday, February 27, 2004 - 01:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Curtis he does have a ZF box..the difference is it is electronically controlled.
 

Curtis N (Curtis)
Dweb Lounge Member
Username: Curtis

Post Number: 1189
Registered: 05-2002
Posted on Friday, February 27, 2004 - 01:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I'll be damned Will - you are right. Sorry Chris:-)

The specific transmission for the DS2 is: ZF4HP22EH.

Also, when I said "freewheel" that is the LR Term for Sprag.
 

James Anderson (Jnjander)
Member
Username: Jnjander

Post Number: 42
Registered: 08-2003
Posted on Friday, February 27, 2004 - 02:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

So since it is the ZF box, could it still be the freewheel (sprag)? I know very little about transmissions so that may be a dumb question.....

Also, if the MAFS is already screwed up and possibly the cause of a problem, like Mike said, what should I expect to see with the MAFS unplugged? Thanks.
 

Geoff 93 RRC (Geoff)
Senior Member
Username: Geoff

Post Number: 275
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Friday, February 27, 2004 - 02:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I doubt its the transmission. I have gotten engine hesitation before and it feels just like a transmission problem.

Try a different brand of gas and add some fuel treatment that removes water.

Try replacing the spark plugs. How are your air and fuel filters? Are the breathers clear?

Otherwise one of the efi sensors (MAF, temp, TPS, etc) or possibly a coil is at fault. Get the ECU read at Autozone for a trouble code. I have used brake cleaner to clean the little MAF wires without problem on several cars.

Could also be clogged fuel injectors that drip gas instead of misting it.
 

Will Tillery (Will)
Senior Member
Username: Will

Post Number: 343
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Friday, February 27, 2004 - 02:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I had a similar issue when raising my truck with the body lift kit. The cabling was pulled up above the brake booster to far and causing some major issues when putting the pedal to the metal.
 

Randy Maynard (Rans)
Senior Member
Username: Rans

Post Number: 772
Registered: 08-2002
Posted on Friday, February 27, 2004 - 02:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I have a '99 D2. My trans has been like that for 50k miles, every winter, just need to let it warm 10-15 seconds before throwing it in gear. The engine doesn't hesitate, you give it gas and it does nothing for a few seconds....just need to get the trans fluid moving.
 

James Anderson (Jnjander)
Member
Username: Jnjander

Post Number: 43
Registered: 08-2003
Posted on Friday, February 27, 2004 - 02:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I just replaced the plugs. I have also cleaned the MAF with brake cleaner several times and reset the codes(ck engine light keeps coming back on). I will replace the MAF in a week or so and post the results. That is a fairly cheap place to start. A few weeks ago the code reader at Autozone gave the following codes:
P0171-System Too Lean Fault Bank A
P0174-System Too Lean Fault Bank B
P0733-Gear 3 Incorrect Ratio
P0734-Gear 4 Incorrect Ratio

I've read that the 174 and 171 could be MAF or O2 sensors and that the 733 and 734 could be MAF...
 

Will Tillery (Will)
Senior Member
Username: Will

Post Number: 344
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Friday, February 27, 2004 - 03:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

James,

Be careful on that brake cleaner in the MAF.
 

James Anderson (Jnjander)
Member
Username: Jnjander

Post Number: 44
Registered: 08-2003
Posted on Friday, February 27, 2004 - 03:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Will: Why's that? Can it harm it?
 

James Anderson (Jnjander)
Member
Username: Jnjander

Post Number: 45
Registered: 08-2003
Posted on Friday, February 27, 2004 - 04:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Anyway, I actually think it was electrical contact cleaner that I used. I just had a brain fart when I said brake cleaner.

About disconnecting the MAF, I did that adn on the way home and the truck ran like crap. It had no power, ran rough and starting off from a dead stop was no fun. Hooked it back up and it runs fine again. (as fine as it did before)
 

Geoff 93 RRC (Geoff)
Senior Member
Username: Geoff

Post Number: 276
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Friday, February 27, 2004 - 04:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Too lean can definately make it stumble/shudder. I would think any of the sensors could potentially trip a code like that.

J E Robison posted the link to the Land Rover dealer info page not too long ago. For $25 you might want to log in and get some detailed troubleshooting for the codes you have.

Yeah, don't overdo the brake cleaner. The non-chlorinated kind is not as strong. Just hit it a couple of times. Basically you need a cleaner that doesn't leave a residue. Here is a link I used at one time on the MAF http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/cleanmaf.htm.
 

OLIVER CLOTHSOFF (Everythingleaks)
Senior Member
Username: Everythingleaks

Post Number: 340
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Saturday, February 28, 2004 - 12:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

You have two different issues.
1. The torque converter in the early D2 will bleed down after sitting for a little while. Some do this worse than others. If you talk to ZF on this issue Ian Daws who is the ZF rep for Land Rover will tell you this is normal. Let the vehicle sit for about 15 seconds on start-up to allow the front pump to refill the torque converter and you will be good to go.

2. The faults you are retrieving are probably linked to the MAF. LRNA has a TIB out on this issue and it will throw all the faults you listed. If it was a vehicle that made it's way to my stall to be worked on this is where I would start. I have seen this many times and MAF sensors have fixed it.

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