| Author | Message | ||
     Matt Anderson (Disco01) Senior Member Username: Disco01 Post Number: 322 Registered: 10-2003 |
Can someone tell me anything I am doing wrong with this install? Put in new rotoflex, bolts going the right way, writing on coupler facing front of vehicle, torqued all bolts to 80 ft lbs. I am still getting some vibes, much less than before but still some. I have no lift, but bigger tires. Could my trouble lie within something else? I am pretty sure it is not tires as they are relatively new and I only feel it around 65 as a very fast low frequency vibe. Front ujs are relatively new, rear seems fine. Thanks Matt | ||
| thom mathie (Muskyman) Senior Member Username: Muskyman Post Number: 631 Registered: 11-2002 |
did you replace the pilot bearing in the rear end of the rear driveshaft? if not you will still get some vibes and the new Roto-flex wont last long MM | ||
| Matt Anderson (Disco01) Senior Member Username: Disco01 Post Number: 323 Registered: 10-2003 |
I had put a non genuine one in about three months ago that was fine for awhile then started vibrating as it had torn around one of the bolts. I replaced the bushing when I did that one so I did not feel like I should need to do it again this soon. The vibe is much better now, but the ride is still not great. I shouldnt need to do the bearing again should I? I have the one that came with the OE kit. | ||
| Matt Anderson (Disco01) Senior Member Username: Disco01 Post Number: 324 Registered: 10-2003 |
oops, I called the bearing a bushing above. | ||
| Brett A. Naquin (Bnaquin) Member Username: Bnaquin Post Number: 74 Registered: 09-2003 |
You might try the OEM bushing. Not because the other has gone bad but because it may not have that magical specification the OEM bushing has. I know it's a pain to do it again but you might start there and if that doesn't correct your problem you can start checking other driveline components. | ||
| thom mathie (Muskyman) Senior Member Username: Muskyman Post Number: 632 Registered: 11-2002 |
bearing bushing...doesent matter as long as you know its there and check it to make sure its not all worn out. if a truck is lifted the angle will cause the centering /pilot bushing to go bad pretty fast and the Roto-flex will go pretty fast as well when it is sloppy. | ||
| Matt Anderson (Disco01) Senior Member Username: Disco01 Post Number: 325 Registered: 10-2003 |
Ok, so I looked at the bushing when I put the new rotoflex in and it still looked new. What else coule it be? Do I need to tighten the bolts more? What if I flipped it around and had the writing facing the rear? How sensitive is this thing? | ||
| Jay Kurowski (Jk1eye) New Member Username: Jk1eye Post Number: 24 Registered: 04-2003 |
Sorry, to jump in, but I am in the process of replacing the Roto and I can't get the damn pilot bearing out. Any tricks? | ||
| Matt Anderson (Disco01) Senior Member Username: Disco01 Post Number: 331 Registered: 10-2003 |
Jay I went ahead and put the new one in a few mins ago. I just use an air chisel and carefully cut the old one out. When I tried a puller before it pulled the rubber out but not the metal. | ||
| Justin V. Nevitt (What_rd) New Member Username: What_rd Post Number: 11 Registered: 02-2004 |
Pull the front shaft out and lock in your CDL. Test drive the truck and verify that your problem is with the rear shaft. If it is still there, install your front shaft and pull your rear out. Also pull the parking brake drum off, stack some washers on the bolts and run the nuts down to hold the driveshaft flange bolts in place, and then test drive. Make sure you don't pull the parking brake lever while the drum is off. If the vibration goes away then the problem is either in the balance of the shaft or the drum. I've seen both. Put the drum on without the shaft and test drive. If it comes back, there's your problem. If it does not, get the shaft checked @ a driveshaft shop. The narrow tubes of the LR shafts fatigue over time and can need rebalancing even if you haven't damaged it in any way. If through all this, the vibration never goes away, then it is not a driveline vibration. Look elsewhere. Oh, don't worry so much about the direction of the Rotoflex. Put it on and tighten it up! Peace. | ||
| Matt Anderson (Disco01) Senior Member Username: Disco01 Post Number: 332 Registered: 10-2003 |
Justin thanks a lot, but my Disco does not have the CDL  . I figure it has to be in the coupling becuase the vibe is a lot less than it was before, just not perfect( or at least Rover perfect). There are some small nicks on my d-shaft from being removed and such, these should not throw it off balance should it? Thanks Matt | ||
| thom mathie (Muskyman) Senior Member Username: Muskyman Post Number: 637 Registered: 11-2002 |
well if the roto and bushing are both good I would then go have the wheel balence checked before I started pulling shafts and the e-brake drum. | ||
| Richard S. Warburton (Warburtonr) Member Username: Warburtonr Post Number: 45 Registered: 02-2003 |
This won't provide much to help you, but I feel your pain. I've got a 99 D2, OME HD springs, 265's, all the weight front/rear bumpers, winch, sliders can add. I'll try to keep it short: Bad vibrations at 40, then again at 70 and above. Had the tires trued and re-balanced. Vibrations almost all gone with the front DS removed. Had the front driveshaft rebuilt by GBR. Vibrations still a 40, but now continuous through top speed (although there is a sweet spot at 60 that is relatively smooth). So, plan B, get a custom Tom Woods. Same vibration frequency, except worse (heavier driveshaft). Return Tom Woods driveshaft. Take to dealer to check transfer case output shaft. They went above and beyond the call of duty and checked, replaced, test drove, etc virtually everything rotating in the driveline. Pretty sure it's the transfer case front output shaft. Not covered under warranty, modified vehicle, blah, blah. New replacement arrives. Almost as much play in the new one as the old. Since I'm footing the bill, we mutually agree not to perform the replacement since it can't be determimed that it will definitely cure the problem cause. Next, I replaced the rear driveshaft with a GBR shaft, eliminating the rotoflex. Only slightly reduced the vibration at 40. Now comes on at 50 and peaks at 75. Now what? I haven't tried the rear DS removal or the brake drum removal test drive (thanks for the brake drum tip Justin Nevitt), but I still think it has something to do with the front drivshaft. I'll be replacing the front and rear differentials in the next few weeks, so I'll be able to eliminate that - I've heard that worn diff spider gears can cause vibrations. The transfer case is next. I'm trying to get a line on a used one. When that gets replaced, I've run out of things to fix. Surely there's an end to all this. I know this doesn't help much, but maybe if I get a resolution soon, it should save someone the pain. You're starting on the same path I did, that's why I'm posting this nightmare. If all else fails, I've decided to keep driving it until something catastrophically fails, then we'll know what the problem is....... |
