| Author | Message | ||
     SSV (Susannah) Senior Member Username: Susannah Post Number: 769 Registered: 06-2002 |
I know the D2s have an auxiliary plug in the cargo area, but how could I put one in the D1? Thanks! | ||
| Joe B (Denverrover) Member Username: Denverrover Post Number: 170 Registered: 02-2003 |
I would wire a homerun right to the battery - maybe without a key-on relay. I would maybe go through the firewall, under the carpet w/ a reinforced wireloom & drill and mount the socket in the plastic next to the jumpseat. I think that would look really nice. Great idea! Joe | ||
| Dave Statler (Falconx84) Member Username: Falconx84 Post Number: 43 Registered: 02-2004 |
Whatever you do, be sure you connect a fuse. I'm looking at doign the same thing. I've wired subwoofers and amps before, and it's not too difficult. The hardest part is hiding the wire. Oh, and walmart sells a kit for this, but you typically have to get an extra length of wire. Last i checked, you could also get weather proof type - might be handy if you have wet gear being thrown in the back. I'd make sure you had a fuse and probably a toggle switch (personal preference) to do the wiring. | ||
| ozwapet (Ozwapet) New Member Username: Ozwapet Post Number: 11 Registered: 07-2003 |
I found it easier to run 5 or 6mm ( I don't know the US equivalent for that ) twin red/black wire from the battery, ( fused near the battery ) down alongside the the chassis rails and then up through the existing grommet hole in the rear quarter panels. ( just slit a hole in the grommet ). For extra protection, you could run it inside that flexible sheathing if you wanted. I installed one of those heavy duty type ISO sockets ( better than the standard cigarette lighter ) on the plastic cover in the rear cargo area ( the same one you get access to the tail lights through ) Works well. There seems to a spare wire with unswitched 12V in the rear taillight wiring loom ( a thick purple one I think ) if you can't be bothered running another one. I preferred to run my own that way I know where it goes !! | ||
| Craig Kobayashi (Koby) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Koby Post Number: 1111 Registered: 02-2002 |
Wire the socket independent of any factory harness / wiring and make sure you put a fuse inline with the wire AT THE BATTERY. I am always loathe to tap into any factory wiring. | ||
| SSV (Susannah) Senior Member Username: Susannah Post Number: 777 Registered: 06-2002 |
Thanks everyone. Sounds like a weekend project. Craig, I got the idea from looking at the pics of your truck actually! Looks great! I'm not so good at wiring, actually, have never done any...but I have friends! Could I buy the part that is stock from the DII? | ||
| Craig Kobayashi (Koby) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Koby Post Number: 1120 Registered: 02-2002 |
The D2 part probably won't fit. The D2 socket is recessed into the panel it's mounted to. To retrofit to a D1 may take a lot of time and effort. This effort may also include some light fab work. | ||
| Craig Kobayashi (Koby) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Koby Post Number: 1121 Registered: 02-2002 |
Oh, and thanks for the compliment, BTW hehe. | ||
| SSV (Susannah) Senior Member Username: Susannah Post Number: 778 Registered: 06-2002 |
You're right Craig...now that I think about it, I don't even HAVE that panel in the D1. DUH! I'm sure with some work, I can manage something. I have thought about trading my Disco for a Series II, but have decided there are only a few advantages: seats, cargo space and little 'extras' like this! So, in my attempt to make the Goldie Box the best, I will try to make some minor additions. OH, and I need to mount some of those retainer rings as well...again, I saw those in your gallery on EE. Sorry to be a copy cat! Thanks for the info. Ozwapet, I'm not sure I'll be able to run through the access panel b/c I have jump seats. It's difficult enough just reaching the rear tail lights! But I think Joe had it right. I'll have to learn a bit more about wiring things, but that's why I have a Rover, right?! | ||
| Brian (Bthaxton) Member Username: Bthaxton Post Number: 90 Registered: 02-2003 |
Here is what I did. I actually have a total of seven outlets (including the actual cigar lighter). First, I bought two 3-outlet adapters from Radio Shack (~$15 ea.). They come with wiring adapters. Then, I ran two awg12 red wires from the (+) battery terminal through the PS firewall with a sealed grommet. On the interior, I then ran the first awg12 wire under the dash (behind the floor vents) to the DS center console; I connected it to one 3-outlet adapter which was screwed it to the transmission "hump" through the carpet. Looks great. The black (ground) wire I ran back through the firewall and integrated with an already-existing frame ground (good opportunity to clean the frame ground contact area). I then sprayed this underbody area with undercoating for protection. The second wire (for the cargo area) I ran under the PS door floor jamb, past the a-pillar, under the next jamb until I reached the rear PS wheel well. I screwed the second 3-outlet adapter to the wheel well and spliced the red awg12 wires underneath the carpet with a flat connector. I then ran the black ground (from the outlet adapter) through a small hidden hole in the cargo floor panel to an existing hole in the rear frame. I used the exact sized screw to attach the ground to the frame without cracking the frame. Sprayed with undercoating. Done. I then encased all wires in conduit, tied them down with wire ties, added silicone to seal all holes, etc. etc. etc. There are more details, but that is the overall principle. My next project is to install a small voltage converter under the DS seat for chargers, etc. Mostly small low-wattage items. Oh yeah, and a yellow-top to replace my red-top. | ||
| Brian (Bthaxton) Member Username: Bthaxton Post Number: 91 Registered: 02-2003 |
One point I failed to mention . . . be sure everything is fused. This system is separate but parallel (in engineering terms it is technically called 'parallel') to your Disco's 12V system, so it is powered constantly. I do not recommend tapping into your existing harness; do so at your own risk. You can accidentally create grounds, etc. Spend the $25 or so and buy a nice replacement (+) battery terminal (I rebuilt my entire positive battery cable setup) with lugs for connecting extraneous devices. Or, you can buy a "block" for splitting device wires from the current battery terminal. Search for car audio components on this board or online. | ||
| David Zymowski (Davidz) Member Username: Davidz Post Number: 83 Registered: 04-2003 |
in your D1,in the right rear corner(passenger side) behind the panel that allows access to your tail lights. are two wires with lil red plugs in them. they are right there near the pig tail for you trailer light hook up. one of the wires is linked to your back up lights(aux back up lights), the other is a hot wire. quick and easy. cant remember the wire colors. but the red plug is a dead give away, it fits in the wire like a bullet connector, if that makes sense | ||
| Craig Kobayashi (Koby) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Koby Post Number: 1123 Registered: 02-2002 |
I recommend Audiopipe's power distribution block in conjunction with their positive battery terminal. I put a 50A fuse inline between the (+) terminal and the power distribution block, in addition to fusing all of the accessories (CB, GPS, Engel, rear power socket) connected to the power distribution block. Like Brian, all of my accessories ARE NOT associated or connected to the factory wiring in any way. | ||
| Donald (Dsmcf) Member Username: Dsmcf Post Number: 130 Registered: 11-2003 |
I am a fan of a lot of kit that John Lee picks, but have to take issue with their choice of the Audiopipe battery terminals. Chocolate block type connections are fine for a protected and dry environment. But in the engine compartment it allows corrosion to attack the wire and moisture to migrate into and along the battery cable... Pick something which allows you to use crimped on lugs over which you can use thick wall adhesive lined heat shrink tubing so as to maintain the integrity of waterproof covering over the battery cable which the cable's insulation provides. The lug itself is tinned and anyway should be protected with a layer of dielectric grease. | ||
| Porter Mann (Porter) Member Username: Porter Post Number: 141 Registered: 05-2003 |
With the audiopipe connectors, how do you jump another vehicle? It looks like there are plastic covers on the ends. I would think that jumper cables would eat up the connectors as well, as they eat up the factory connectors already. | ||
| Craig Kobayashi (Koby) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Koby Post Number: 1127 Registered: 02-2002 |
Porter- I've jumped serveral vehicles and been jump started several times. It's not really an issue because you can remove the plastic cover and connect the jumper cable with no problem. | ||
| Brian (Bthaxton) Member Username: Bthaxton Post Number: 95 Registered: 02-2003 |
Donald and Craig both have good points, and I noticed (through a posted link maybe? Hmmmm?  ) that EE sells these posts. My opinion is that a good quality brass core post with recessed lugs is the best way to go. Choose the types/number of lugs based upon your particular application. The point being that all connections made at the actual battery reduce the number of possible faults due to circuit simplicity. I would definitely recommend the posts that EE sells in Craig's post above. As in Donald's post, utilizing these particular posts 1) Allows the accessory wiring to be crimped with gold-plated connectors, 2) Wrapped with shrink wrap, 3) Coated with Dielectric (silicone) grease, and , 4) Be inserted securely into the post screw-type lug(s). The post terminal itself can then be smeared with a thin film of Di grease and the plastic cover can be snapped into place. Encase all insulated wiring in conduit, clip/tie/route it into place, and you are set free. Best of all worlds (and posts). Theoretically, nothing conductive or vulnerable is exposed to the environment. The distribution blocks in Craig's post are great also, but I would also recommend them in an interior setting. However, this is an equally valid application. A conduit-encased awg4 (battery-sized) cable can be routed from a high-quality dual-lug (+) battery post through the firewall into the interior to do with what you may. The more I type, the more I realize that this actually might be a more DURABLE setup due to the fact that only conduit-encased heavy gauge wire is exposed to the environment as opposed to awg12 wiring. Another dist block routed from the (-) terminal or vehicle frame can be a common interior ground distribution. However, I still prefer the (+) battery post application that I mentioned first. My $.02 It never fails!!! I come here looking for a way to troubleshoot my AC fans, and the next thing I know, I have been sitting here a while. |
