| Author | Message | ||
     Troy Morris (Cheapjeep2) New Member Username: Cheapjeep2 Post Number: 32 Registered: 04-2003 |
99 D2 4.0L. I have a coolant leak but it's not coming from the radiator or the engine compartment. When crawling under the D2 the leak is roughly near the right hand catalytic converter under the passenger compartment. It looks like its dripping on the transmission area, running down and then on the cross bar. Would this be the Heater core (matrix) leaking? The coolant system is low but I can't see anywhere in the engine compartment that is wet. What should I check? TIA, Troy | ||
| Michael Noe (Noee) Senior Member Username: Noee Post Number: 882 Registered: 03-2002 |
Valley gasket. Happened to mine and many others, was replaced under warranty. Not a hard DIY, just tedious. | ||
| Troy Morris (Cheapjeep2) New Member Username: Cheapjeep2 Post Number: 33 Registered: 04-2003 |
Where is this gasket located? What would this gasket be referred to in the workshop manual. I did a search on Valley gasket and didn't find anything. | ||
| Michael Noe (Noee) Senior Member Username: Noee Post Number: 884 Registered: 03-2002 |
Intake manifold gasket. You have to remove the intake manifold. Looks a lot worse than it really is. While you've got it off, depending on your miles and if you haven't done it already, it would be an opportune time to replace the plug wires too. | ||
| bluesman (Hywy61) Member Username: Hywy61 Post Number: 119 Registered: 02-2003 |
Same exact problem here. Of course i am out of warranty. 2000 DII - 54K. Would this be easy job for a novice mechanic? Time involved? Tools? | ||
| Troy Morris (Cheapjeep2) New Member Username: Cheapjeep2 Post Number: 34 Registered: 04-2003 |
I just looked through my workshop manual.. Doesn't look like anything difficult, just time consuming as you have to remove a lot of crap to get to the problem. | ||
| Michael Noe (Noee) Senior Member Username: Noee Post Number: 888 Registered: 03-2002 |
Yeah, go for it, you'll learn alot. Take your time, take pictures if you need, label things if you need. If it's a daily driver, give yourself a good two days to be safe and make sure you have everything you need (or easy access to it) before getting started. | ||
| bluesman (Hywy61) Member Username: Hywy61 Post Number: 120 Registered: 02-2003 |
I really do want to do this but my workshop manual sucks. No reference at all to intake manifold. Another name for this? Not exactly sure of the part either. Web site shows the same name for two different items. Little nervous about it but sounds like a long job\lots of money to the dealer. {intake1.jpg}  {intake2.jpg}  | ||
| John Hamblin (Jhmover) New Member Username: Jhmover Post Number: 36 Registered: 02-2003 |
Mines doing the same thing only on the driver's side...stupid truck. :-) I put some Bars Leak in it, which isn't a fix, but it did slow it down to where it uses about 1" of coolant a week and doesn't heat up anymore than normal. I'm not sure if it's the valley or head gasket...it's hard to see what's going on with it..even more junk in the way on the driver's side. One of these days I'll get time to find out. JH | ||
| bluesman (Hywy61) Member Username: Hywy61 Post Number: 121 Registered: 02-2003 |
Any reason not to try BARS first? Can anyone identify which gasket listed in the post above? Is this something we could just leave for a while? Look at it as self chaninging fluid. ha. | ||
| bluesman (Hywy61) Member Username: Hywy61 Post Number: 122 Registered: 02-2003 |
anyone? which gasket? BARS - no good or ok? | ||
| Geoff 93 RRC (Geoff) Senior Member Username: Geoff Post Number: 294 Registered: 11-2002 |
I would check the tension on all of the coolant clamps. They can loosen up. Check the little ones on the intake. I had one loosen up, drool on the valley gasket, and down the back of the engine. Just loose clamp. The heater core hose clamps are hard to get to, but I could get to mine with a long skinny screwdriver. Call around and get a price on the intake gasket replacement. BARS is a band aid which is designed to gum up openings (like also the normal passages in your radiator or heater core). Don't fool around with an aluminum engine. Just get the leak fixed. | ||
| David Huddleson (Dhuddleson) New Member Username: Dhuddleson Post Number: 31 Registered: 09-2003 |
Do the intake gasket (including those rubber front and back seals)! Forget the Bars stuff... false economy. It seems that many Disco's have the intake manifold bolts "not" tight enough, and coolant leaks start near the rear of the engine. I would say that two bolts on mine were barely more than finger-tight when serious leaking started around 62K miles. New gasket was installed after ATTEMPTING to simply tighten the loose bolts. Just to say that the effort to tighten the loose bolts did not help at all. Take your time, and don't break anything! | ||
| bluesman (Hywy61) Member Username: Hywy61 Post Number: 123 Registered: 02-2003 |
Thanks guys but my problem is that i am a novice mechanic and cannot figure out where the intake manifold is? Please educate me. I am hoping just some loose screws. Where are these? thanks | ||
| bluesman (Hywy61) Member Username: Hywy61 Post Number: 124 Registered: 02-2003 |
going on a trip soon and need some help. Can anyone describe for me where the intake manifold bolts are located. thanks. | ||
| David Huddleson (Dhuddleson) New Member Username: Dhuddleson Post Number: 32 Registered: 09-2003 |
OK... V8 engine, so you have the LEFT and RIGHT cylinder heads. You can see the valve covers. The intake manifold BRIDGES across the heads, and the intake is bolted to both heads. Look at the big top radiator hose that connects to the front of the intake. That's where the thermostat is. UNDER the thermostat, you should be able to see the intake manifold gasket... it is that big "tin" gasket that spans across from the left to right heads. The bolts that you need to access are NOT easy to get to, especially the driver (LHS) side. You will likely have to remove the top of the intake plenum first. Not sure about your DII, but on a D1 it is six hex-head (allen key) bolts and a few hoses & electrical connectors. Then (on a D1), you can reach most, if not all, intake manifold bolts. Does that help? When you start to figure out where the intake attachment bolts are, I think you will be better able to determine your skill (and tool) level to do the job... | ||
| Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) Moderator Username: Kyle Post Number: 873 Registered: 11-2002 |
Tighten the intake bolts. It ussually solves the issue Kyle | ||
| Michael Noe (Noee) Senior Member Username: Noee Post Number: 889 Registered: 03-2002 |
bluesman, you got a shop manual? If not, don't hesitate, get one and read it. You will learn a ton. | ||
| M. Recke (Disco_obsession) Member Username: Disco_obsession Post Number: 132 Registered: 05-2002 |
Troy you have mail. I have emailed you 2 PDF files with info and pics on Carbon Decoking of heads. It shows the Valley gasket, a tip on using Hylomar on it and advise to remove the fuel rail intact with the inlet manefold. Hope it helps | ||
| Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) Moderator Username: Kyle Post Number: 875 Registered: 11-2002 |
Again , save your money and tighten all the bolts before you go buying parts and reading manuals.. Kyle | ||
| skip banel (Captin_potato) New Member Username: Captin_potato Post Number: 3 Registered: 03-2004 |
ok here we go :P tightening the bolts would be ok if the soft gasket material has not disapeared from the gasket itself, second BARS leak stoper is great if you dont mind havent vast amounts of poo poo cloging your heater core, and of course last but not least if you going to do this yourself make sure you got plenty of time if you not real tech savy, take your time and keep things in order dont mix up the old bolts now. while your in in there do your self a favor and check your lifters for wear and cam and the odds and ends in there you never know LOL. anyway just take your time the captin |
