| Author | Message | ||
     Troy Thompson (Tdt) New Member Username: Tdt Post Number: 1 Registered: 02-2004 |
1St time doing brakes on my disco 1 '98 and have now run into problems. Couple of qiuck questions and I could use some suggestions. 1) Suggestions on retracting pistons in calip. so that I can get them over the rotor. I have a pad retractor but does not help a lot due to design 2) I changed the rotors which requires hub work. When I removed the hub nut it was fairly loose. On a posting it mentioned to tighten them to 62nm?? | ||
| Matthew Mogi (Lzxray3) New Member Username: Lzxray3 Post Number: 21 Registered: 11-2003 |
For retracting the pads i've used pieces of wood to lever them back into position. The torque settings for the hub nut are: Stage 1 : 61 Nm Stage 2: 4 Nm Stage 1 consists of tightening the hub nut to 61 Nm while rotating the hub to properly seat the bearings. Stage 2 consists of fully loosening the hub nut then tightening it to 4 Nm properly setting endfloat. | ||
| Troy Thompson (Tdt) New Member Username: Tdt Post Number: 2 Registered: 02-2004 |
I was considering using wood and prying, but I did not want to damage anything. I will work on that this evening Thanks for the Info!!! | ||
| Rick Clarke (Tugcap) Member Username: Tugcap Post Number: 50 Registered: 02-2002 |
My front calipers were corroded around the outer pistons, and that made them more difficult to retract fully. My solution was to take the caliper right off, disconnect the brake line, and put it on the work bench. Some careful buffing with steel wool, and 'C' clamps were the answer to retracting the pistons. Downside to this is you have to bleed brakes. I ended up replacing the calipers w/rebuilt f/Autozone, because the pad wear was very uneven: insides were more than twice as worn as the outsides. | ||
| 20/20/20 (Chrisseries1) New Member Username: Chrisseries1 Post Number: 8 Registered: 03-2004 |
use a wire brush to clean caliper. use brake cleaner to get rid of brake dust. before trying to push piston in use a silicon lube or penitrating oil to lubricate the piston and piston seals. this will protect the seals from becoming damaged thus leading to leaking. if this does not work try to crack the bleed screw to releive hydrolic preasure. if this does not work then i guess that the caliper is seized and must be freed up! if it cant be freed up it is time to replace it. use never seize compond around the studs to keep the rim from corroding to the hub. hope this helps | ||
| Troy Thompson (Tdt) New Member Username: Tdt Post Number: 3 Registered: 02-2004 |
I am now back on the road!!! Thanks for all the help. I did not want to remove the caliper completely so I did what I could while it was on the vehile. I did use a wire brush to clean the outside of the pistons because I did see some buildup(thanks Chrissries1) then I used 2 clamps and old pad to inch the pistons in | ||
| Stephen Hawkins (Madmole) Member Username: Madmole Post Number: 49 Registered: 07-2003 |
Copper grease is the secret for long term brake function I swing out the caliper with the old pads in it still, insert large swrewdriver between pads, loosen bleed screw and lever screwdriver, opening the bleed, lets the fluid (and air) out and the calipers go back easily, It manks the pads but they are going in the bin anyway Other advantage is you get rid of the fluid thats been sitting down at the brakes for a while and allow some fresh stuff in |
