| Author |
Message |
    
AlanB
| | Posted on Thursday, June 20, 2002 - 10:04 pm: | 
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Hi all,
I have a 92 RR and the steering seems to be binding when I make sharp turns at low speed. As you turn the steering wheel it takes more effort then it seems to release. No leaks in pump or box, fluid level ok. At higher speeds everything seems ok, vehicle is tight and doesn't wander.
Also have water under the front passenger side carpet. Clogged drain tube? Can't seem to find any drain tubes. What is this source of water coming from? Drivers side totally dry.
Any answers or comments much appreciated |
A. Ali
| | Posted on Thursday, June 20, 2002 - 11:32 pm: |
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How's your U joint on the steering shaft? Sometimes age and heat can make this thing bind. Since you're not hearing any moaning sound at slow speed, probably your PS box and pump are fine. Try doing the same thing on a pair of jack stands to see anything obvious.
Pass wet floor indicates clogged A/C drain tube...usually. If not, then expose the bare floor and check out the four bolts that are attaching the mud flap bracket to the floor board. Sometimes corrosion can cause leakage here.
Good luck. |
AlanB
| | Posted on Thursday, June 20, 2002 - 11:57 pm: |
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Ali
The u-joints do look pretty bad, do you think I can just try to put some penetrating lube on them and not replace them? Where is the A/C drain tube located?
Thanks |
ali
| | Posted on Friday, June 21, 2002 - 10:42 pm: |
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Sure, try it to see if it'll work. Can't hurt that's for sure.
Your a/c drain hose should be going through the firewall near the pass footwell, directly under the dashboard. |
Ryan Wilcox
| | Posted on Saturday, June 22, 2002 - 12:16 am: |
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About the A/C,
I am having the same problem, my passenger side floor is wet occasionally, but i dont really use my A/C because it doesnt get cold and i was told that the expansion valve was clogged, could the A/C system not be working properly because of a clogged drain tube? I would love to find this out before i order a new expansion valve and drier. |
AlanB
| | Posted on Saturday, June 22, 2002 - 01:43 am: |
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Thanks for the info Ali, I will look for the drain pipe in the morning. Ryan my AC doesnt get very cold either and everything seems to be working fine. I don't know if a clogged drain tube would cause the AC to not get very cold. Your system and mine might be low on freon, but my system is still the old R12 stuff and I hear that it cost an arm and a leg to recarge. I am thinking of coverting it to enviro friendly FR12 and I have heard that all you need is a new drier, system flush and some new fittings on the compressor, and it is supposed to work better than R134a. Might be good topic for new post. I'm just waiting for my AC system to entirely quit before doing anything. |
Ali
| | Posted on Sunday, June 23, 2002 - 09:15 am: |
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Alan,
I heard the opposite for R134a vs R12 in that it has a lower BTU content and doesn't get as cool. Having said that, I recharged my wife's '95 Subi last weekend and it works fine. Recharging it was easy as finding the recharge kit for $14 that contains one can of R134a, gauge and tubing with quick coupler and following the instructions. The car took two cans and now she's happy. I'm thinking of converting over to R134a myself so let's keep this thread going. |
hendrik
| | Posted on Monday, June 24, 2002 - 09:21 am: |
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For the steering problem: if the steering shaft is not guilty then have a look at the drivebelt to the PAS-pump. I occasionally had the same symptom and found the belt to slip without noise (this will occur when the power assistance is needed most i.e low speeds/standstill).
regards,
Hendrik |
h
| | Posted on Monday, June 24, 2002 - 10:09 am: |
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Another thing:
when I removed this steering shaft out of the engine bay I had to lever and pull quite a bit because it sticked to the steering column splines like welded to it.
Unfortunately the steering column is made out of two tubes/shaft (telescope like) to allow for movement in case of accident. There is a shear pin for that reason. Unlucky me had broken that pin in the above manouvre and was very surprised when the inner shaft of the s/c (the one the steering shaft U/J is clamped onto) slipped down into the engine compartment. It could be pushed back back was very loose afterwards.
Yesterday repaired the s/c. Easily done from the footwell by removing the black plastic "wraparound" that occludes the "honey-comb" structure of the s/c and then looking for the shear pin (only thing I found that came close to that was a small spot of Plastic (polyethylene) pin (about 1.5mm diameter)). I pushed the two s/c- shafts back together until no more play could be felt and bored out the shear pin´s hole and with a thread it took a 6mm dia screw.
Problem fixed and will not happen again. (now the s/c cannot slide together in an accident like before. But the Defender-type s/c doesn´t do that too, so I think in accidents that give me a chance to survive I will not notice a difference).
(Alternative: new s/c for 400$ or used one for ?75$?)
Moral = be gentle to the Range Rover´s steering column  ... and always use grease when you reassemble things |
AlanB
| | Posted on Monday, June 24, 2002 - 01:00 pm: |
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Thanks for the info Hendrik, my drivebelt to the ps pump seems ok, do you know approximately how much tension the belt should be under? Also I sprayed my s/c u-joints with tri-flow and when I crawled under to look at the steering stabilizer, it was trashed, metal housing rusted through and I could see the stabilizer piston rod, I sprayed the piston rod with some tri-flow. Seems to be binding a little less now. Could the rusted out stabilizer be binding the steering? I ordered an OME stabilizer from expedition exchange today and I hope that maybe my steering binding problems will be eliminated by just replacing the stabilizer. |
Ali
| | Posted on Monday, June 24, 2002 - 10:16 pm: |
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Alan,
For a quick check of the stablizer, simply unhook one end of it and see if you can re-create the problem. |
hendrik
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 25, 2002 - 01:59 am: |
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Hi Alan,
I cant give you a proper figure about the tension, but the belt is very short. given, that the drivebelt to the water pump / fan should be depressed by the thumb only about 1cm, I think the belt to the PAS-pump shouldn´t be able to be depressed more than a few millimetres.
The pump´s housing has a rectangulat hole in it so you can fit a 1/2" ratchet in it and wrench it around to put the drivebelt under more tension (having slackened the 3 6mm bolts (10mm nut) and retightening them while still holding the ratchet. |
Alan Bates (Alanb)
| | Posted on Monday, July 01, 2002 - 09:53 am: |
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Installed an OME stabilizer this weekend and it has cured my steering binding problems. Old stock one was rusted badly. Thanks all for reponses and info. |
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