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DiscoWeb Bulletin Board » Message Archives » 2003 Archives - Range Rover- Technical » Archive through December 12, 2002 » RR 3.9 - oil cooler circuit - modifying « Previous Next »

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hendrik
Posted on Friday, July 12, 2002 - 05:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I have fitted an engine oil temp. gauge to my RRC and am surprised how long it takes to reach operating temperature (which, at 80-85 centigrades is lower than I expected). At ambient temps. of 25degrees (C) and normal cruising this temp. is reached after at least 10-15 minutes or 15-20km´s.
I know there is a thermostate in the oil filter housing (right?) and the oil flows through the water radiator and than back into the engine.
Does it make sense to remove the thermostat (or do something to it) - so that the oil goes through the radiator even when cold soon after starting. As the water Temperatur raises very fast (operating temp. after very few minutes) it would heat the oil first and later perhaps cool it down (as designed for) ???
 

PerroneFord
Posted on Saturday, July 13, 2002 - 12:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Why do you need your oil to be hot sooner? Hot oil doesn't necessarily lubricate better than cold oil. Are you having viscosity issues, or is your oil pressure too high?
 

hendrik
Posted on Saturday, July 13, 2002 - 02:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

No, oil pressure is all right.

Well, a cold start makes as much wear as several hundreds miles of highway cruising - mainly due to the lubrication. And engines from big trucks work fine for many hundreds of kmiles because they do the miles on highways with temperatures as they should be (and low revs).
So I thought it might be a good idea to have the oil hot as soon as possible.
I think the generally lower oil pressure at higher engine temps means that its viscosity is lower. So the flows easier or more oil can be shifted. Thought that would be good. It is said (www.rpiv8.com) the Rover V8 depends on high oil flow rather than high oil pressure.

:) But, these are just my thoughts. I am not in the subject by profession and sometimes got to much time to tinker ´bout things :)

Thanks for slowing me down a bit !)
 

PerroneFord
Posted on Saturday, July 13, 2002 - 11:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Well,

If you want superior protection in cold starts either use a quality synthetic with better cling properties (so it doesn't all drip back to the pan), or use a pre-luber which is what commercial trucks use. This keep oil in the engine and under proper pressure until the pump can deliver proper oil delivery around the engine. Moroso make a popular one for a couple hundred dollars.

Good luck.
 

JB
Posted on Monday, July 15, 2002 - 09:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Perrone how is your classic holding up these days ? Do you have any recent photos online. What kind of lift and tires have you decided to run ? Last I saw I think you had big old swampers, maybe 34's ???. Do you have a recent pic or a link - I didn't see any on your site. I am still running w/out a rear drive shaft and praying the VC doesn't give out. I finally got the rover bolts and nylocks I needed to put the back end back-on.


JB
 

PerroneFord
Posted on Monday, July 15, 2002 - 09:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Truck is fine. I haven't been under it in months. I don't have any recent photos. The swamper photo was a test fit. I've decided to install Swamper LTB 34" this fall.

Why did you need rover bolts? I just got grade 8s from the hardware store and used loctite. Much better solution.
 

JB
Posted on Tuesday, July 16, 2002 - 08:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

10 spline rear end went
 

PerroneFord
Posted on Tuesday, July 16, 2002 - 09:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

blessing in disguise. I swapped my rear to 24 spline as well.
 

jp
Posted on Wednesday, July 17, 2002 - 11:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I didnt know there was a thermostat in the oil pump area? You dont want the oil going to the rad cooler BEFORE the water is warmed up, so if there is a thermo leave it there. The whole point of inter-cooling oil to water is the water will warm the cool oil (in winter), and cool the hot oil (in summer or high load times) because the water temp is more stable usually.
You would be surprised at the load involved in pumping oil around the engine. I once helped a mate overhaul a 350 SBC. We filled everything up with fluids, but left plugs out so we could pre-lube it on the starter - spun over quickly for a few seconds, then oil pressure came up, and it slowed down an amazing amount, just on driving the oil pump. Some cars (Ford Escort eg) will break the oil pump shaft if you upspec the oil viscosity.
jp

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